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Messages - Mike40M

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Singles / Re: New owner with B50mx oil tank questions
« on: 27 August, 2021, 20:55:25 »
If the bike had stood unused for 4 years, it has definitely wetsumped most of the oil in the tank into the crankcase. All dry sump bikes wetsumps more or less. 55 years since I started riding and competing British motorcycles. With age, I every now and then forget simple things like my wife's birthday or draining the crankcase. So it is possible that your crankcase wasn't drained and oil added by the previous owner. The short runs it had was not enough to clear the sump. Another 1/4 mile overfilled the oil tank.
A good thing is that your engine is so tight that it kept it's oil in the crankcase without going out on the floor. But check that you have correct level in the primary. Have a wetsumped Norton that blow a crankcase seal overfilling the primary.

Singles / Re: basic B40 electrics then to upgrade
« on: 16 August, 2021, 09:35:44 »
The 3 wire alternator has to be connected to the light switch so that it gives more power with lights on. A simple solution for not overcharging the battery. It can be used with a modern rectifier/regulator with (the right) two leads connected together. The later 2 wire alternator was to be used with a Zener diode preventing overcharging of the battery.
I suggest you check on Paul Goffs website Lots of useful information there
I've bought parts from him for a complete rewiring of my WD B40.

Singles / Re: 441 vs kick start rubber
« on: 11 August, 2021, 18:17:36 »
When I swept the floor in the workshop today, I found the closed end of the rubber on the first VS mentioned before. Seems the same as the Feked one. But they are too short for a good fit. So I guess that it might be that a 85mm long open ended one is better. Anyhow I will try one as soon as I get one home.

Singles / Re: 441 vs kick start rubber
« on: 09 August, 2021, 09:41:18 »
Sorry can't give a definite answer. The drawing in the parts book could be either. Looking at the most original VS I have. the kick start rubber is so worn at the end so that it is impossible to tell. But it has the text BSA. The other VS  has an open end, no text, so probably replaced at some time. Can't remember the looks on the one I bought new 51 years ago. But the rubber from Feked (fkrub11) is very similar to the probably original one I have. But on that one you have to make a 1/2" hole at the end.
Edit: On second try on a local shop found a 85mm long open ended, BSA marked one which could be the one to have.

Yes, oil smoke is blue. Last week started the B40 without emptying the sump. As it had been ridden two days earlier. Much more blue smoke than the two-stroke racers.

It is possible to drain  the sump by kicking. It can take a minute or two of idling at around 1000 rpm before the return oil comes mixed with air. So you only need a few thousand kicks to drain the sump.
My limited experience on taps in the oil feed line. The Vincent has a tap without electric cutout switch. As it has an all roller bearing crank, if I forget to open the tap, it will survive a mile or two with tap closed. A bike with plain bearings would not. The Velocette has an automatic tap, though mine leaks. Another winter project. My B40WD wet sumps a lot. There is not room for a tap with a high exhaust pipe. So I've replaced the sump plate with one of those with a drain plug. Now the oil stays in the sump and can easily be drained before starting it. The two B44 don't need draining the sump if used once a moth. On the Manx I always drain the oil tank after each race so no problem. The Norton 650SS will get a tap with ignition cutout. Cause if started with excessive oil in the crankcase, it blows the outgoing shaft seal and fill the primary case with oil.

Singles / Re: Card Adjustment Screws
« on: 26 July, 2021, 20:08:31 »
On the NOC forum, the same problem was discussed a few months ago. So it happens to Nortons too. On quick fix while waiting for new O-rings was:
" in the meantime some dabs of rubber solution applied to bridge the ends of the screws to the carb body have proved effective."

Twins / Re: Lucas horn problem. 1954 Flash.
« on: 18 July, 2021, 04:34:10 »
On a lot of bikes, a fairly common earth path is a wire between engine (or frame) and the headlamp shell. Then to the handlebar. Paint can isolate the shell.

Twins / Re: Lucas horn problem. 1954 Flash.
« on: 17 July, 2021, 22:43:03 »
As it works as intended off the bike, the horn is good. So the problem is somewhere on the bike. The most common cause is on the earth side of the horn. If you have a horn button that when pushed makes contact between the button and the handlebar (which is usual), you probably don't have a good electrical contact between the handlebar and the earth side of the battery. So test it by connecting a wire between the earth side terminal of the horn and the earth side of the battery. I'd guess a -54 bike has positive earth.If this test gives a loud signal, fix a better earth path between the handlebar and the engine or the frame. Sometimes the earth path from the handlebar goes via the steering stem bearings. sometimes via the throttle or choke wire cable. None of them ideal.

Singles / Re: Oil on club runs
« on: 15 July, 2021, 06:29:11 »
Long time ago, when riding bikes with total loss systems, adding oil was done about every third petrol filling. If I remember correctly.

Singles / Re: Burman gearbox
« on: 15 July, 2021, 06:21:34 »
It seems this thread evolved from Burman to BSA gearboxes. Anyhow a short note on some  Burman gearboxes, e.g. the one used on Vincent Comet.
They leak a lot if filled with oil. With semi fluid grease which they should have, almost no leak.

Singles / Re: B44 VS Tyres
« on: 11 July, 2021, 08:29:11 »
I mainly goes on paved or unpaved roads with the Victors. One has Avon SM Mk II, and the other one has Dunlop K70. As I don't push them hard and rarely ride in rain or snow, I can't feel any difference. Though I prefer the look of the K70.

Singles / Re: How much work is realistic?
« on: 09 July, 2021, 08:00:42 »
I don't have any bike with centre stand. The oldest two have a rear stand. so no problem with them. The three race bikes have no stand at all. On them I use a motorcycle jack on the lift. Or paddock stands. Or simply use tie downs. I've too added more U clamps on the lift. The seven with side stand only, same as the race bikes or for small work just tie downs. Usually can get help changing bike on the lift. But the usual early spring maintenance to the ten running bikes is often done on the floor. The lift usually occupied by a time consuming project.

Singles / Re: How much work is realistic?
« on: 07 July, 2021, 17:30:33 »
Measured my favourite stool. 1 foot high.
A complete engine strip down, cleaning, inspection, get new bits, maybe get cylinder boring oversize, get some parts needed and assemble should not be impossible for a novice to do in a normal winter. But if the machine seems to have no worrying sounds or malfunctions, just doing a head and cylinder overhaul would be enough first winter. Just decoking and grind valves can take some time when you've not done it before. With head off, you can get a quite good impression of cylinder wear and if bottom end is really bad.

When very young, I took apart a 750 Flathead Harley and hid it under my bed. Flat on fifth floor, no elevator.  Mom not pleased. Restored it piece by piece. Got help from an old mechanic with things I could not do myself. Carried all parts down and assembled it. Then Swedish winters was much longer then than they are now. Done it in one winter.

Singles / Re: How much work is realistic?
« on: 06 July, 2021, 07:25:31 »
A low stool (about 40cm high) saves your knees. Also very good when changing wheels on cars. Welded one decades ago. Just a couple of years ago got a bike lift  for a full renovation of a Manx. Still uses the stool working on bikes when the bike lift is occupied by another bike. Japanese twostroke race bikes have a tendency to stay for long periods on the lift. And Nortons.
The hydraulic press is rarely used. A quite big vice can handle most press work.
A small bench grinder is used almost every day. As the drill press.
Good lighting is a must. And of course a clean floor to find the nuts and other things you drop.
Old oven trays are useful under British bike engines.

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