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Messages - Jim S

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16
Twins / Re: electric out put seems High
« on: 01 May, 2021, 12:41:38 »
I had an electronic regulator last year that stopped regulating, causing the dynamo to put out full power regardless of the battery charge. This condition fried the dynamo armature before I could determine what was happening.

Check if the dynamo is getting very hot. If yes, check the regulator. On my 6v system I applied 7+ volts to the power side of the regulator and then measured the output to the field coil. It was still giving full power (7+volts) to the field coil, therefore not regulating.

Jim

17
Singles / Re: B31 'snatching' in gear
« on: 19 April, 2021, 14:26:04 »
Hi Calum
I'm not sure you will be able to see much through the inspection cover. To really determine what is going on you will probably need to disassemble the gearbox. The gearbox doesn't need to be removed from the frame, but the clutch centre needs to be removed which is a complete disassembly of the clutch.

I suspect that you have a worn 3rd/4th dogged wheel and shifter fork. Other people in this forum (including me) have had a similar issue. Do a search on b33 gearbox for more information.

18
Singles / Re: 1946-48 gearbox....again!
« on: 09 April, 2021, 22:35:54 »
Did you put a sealed bearing on the right side of the gearbox main shaft also? If yes, maybe that sealed bearing is preventing oil from migrating into the main section of the gearbox. You may be only filling the gear change and kick start ratchet area!

19
Singles / Re: 1946-48 gearbox....again!
« on: 09 April, 2021, 14:39:19 »
If you put 1 pint in, you will find significant oil splotches under your bike unless you have installed a sealed bearing on the output shaft. Yes, the B33 manuals say add one pint but review this previous post.
https://www.bsaownersclub.co.uk/bsaoc_forum/index.php?topic=8337.msg42035#msg42035
I run my 1949 B33 with 400ml in the gearbox.

20
Singles / Re: B44SS Housing
« on: 06 March, 2021, 15:38:26 »
Thanks Mike40 M
Are you saying you have a similar indication (my picture left side of s/n) on one of your bikes?

The line on the right side of my photo appears to be raised material and as you say, that is probably a casting form split line. The line to the left looks to have depth to it.


21
Singles / B44SS Housing
« on: 06 March, 2021, 13:55:28 »
Hello
I am looking at a 1969 BSA B44SS listed for sale. The owner has emailed me a photo of the engine showing the serial number but there appears to be a crack in the housing to the left of the number.
Has anyone seen a crack like this on a B44? What caused it and can it be repaired?

The bike is a 2 hour drive away, so I'm just looking for a little more info before making the trip.

22
Singles / Re: B33 6 Spring Clutch New Corks?
« on: 15 November, 2020, 13:00:10 »
I made a simple wooden fixture to get consistent cork thickness, and cut my inserts from wine corks. (Very enjoyable exercise.) I have more than 5000km on my B33 since I replaced the corks and the clutch works great.

As Dennis49 says, you need to select the best ones and soak then in hot water. There must be a thread in this forum with more detailed information.

23
Twins / Re: E3l Lucas Dynamo .
« on: 14 November, 2020, 02:03:39 »
See attached.

24
Twins / Re: Possible Damage to Forks During Transport
« on: 13 November, 2020, 21:25:53 »
Snow is in the forecast so I have terminated my riding season. Decided to investigate the leaking forks caused by the agressive tow truck operator this past summer.

On the right hand fork I found the circlip that retains the upper bush had popped out of place and was nicely nestled in the oil seal cavity. The seal and all other parts appeared in good condition.

On the left hand fork, the circlip was still in place. The seal and all the other parts looked good.

I guess the oil leaks were initiated by high pressure oil pushing past the threads of the oil seal holder. On the previous fork build, I only put nylon cord around the recess at the bottom of the threads of the fork sliding tube per the BSA Service Sheet. On this rebuild, I have put nylon cord in the recess and pink PTFE tape on the threads. Pink tape is intended for petroleum applications.

Good thing that the second circlip stayed in place, otherwise an Evil Knievel style jump would have been catastrophic. :P

25
Singles / Re: M20 kick start issues
« on: 07 November, 2020, 15:04:22 »
In my post above, I should have written gearbox main shaft not output shaft.
Anyway, looking at your video again, when you kick it over, the gearbox main shaft is turning and by viscous drag within the gearbox, the gearbox output shaft is turning causing the wheel to turn.
Are you sure the engine is turning? If it is, you have very little compression based on the apparent effort to kick it over. Or maybe you are kicking it over with the decompression lever activated??
There is an inspection cover on the primary (left) side. When you remove the cover you can see the primary chain. When you push down the kick start, does the primary chain move?

26
Singles / Re: M20 kick start issues
« on: 06 November, 2020, 13:27:00 »
Is the engine turning? If yes, then you have lost compression maybe due to a stuck valve or a fault with the decompression mechanism.

If the engine isn't turning, I would start by pulling off the primary cover. It could be a broken primary chain or the clutch assembly is spinning on the gearbox output shaft or ...

27
Singles / Re: Bsa b33 1946/48 kickstart shaft sizes
« on: 02 October, 2020, 01:05:02 »
My 1949 B33 measures 0.075 inches or 19.05mm. I only have a 1949 to 1953 parts book so I don't know if the parts are the same for earlier years.

28
Singles / Re: Fork problems
« on: 02 October, 2020, 00:34:48 »
Glad to hear you had success.

29
Singles / Re: B31 leaking head bolts
« on: 29 September, 2020, 01:40:00 »
I can't contribute much more. My B33 engine ran like a train but leaked oil. Post valve guide fix it runs like a train and doesn't leak. (Much  ;).

Let us know what you find is the cause.

30
Singles / Re: Fork problems
« on: 29 September, 2020, 01:22:19 »
I would loosen off all the fender (mudguard) attachments, then install the wheel and tighten the spindle. Loosen the yolk connections and tighten the wheel spindle again. "Bounce"the front end. If the wheel and spindle are correct, the fork legs should be parallel. The forks should function. If yes, finish the installation of the mudguard (fender). If no, may be someone else has an idea...

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