I had an electronic regulator last year that stopped regulating, causing the dynamo to put out full power regardless of the battery charge. This condition fried the dynamo armature before I could determine what was happening.

Check if the dynamo is getting very hot. If yes, check the regulator. On my 6v system I applied 7+ volts to the power side of the regulator and then measured the output to the field coil. It was still giving full power (7+volts) to the field coil, therefore not regulating.

Jim

Did you put a sealed bearing on the right side of the gearbox main shaft also? If yes, maybe that sealed bearing is preventing oil from migrating into the main section of the gearbox. You may be only filling the gear change and kick start ratchet area!

Thanks Mike40 M
Are you saying you have a similar indication (my picture left side of s/n) on one of your bikes?

The line on the right side of my photo appears to be raised material and as you say, that is probably a casting form split line. The line to the left looks to have depth to it.

I made a simple wooden fixture to get consistent cork thickness, and cut my inserts from wine corks. (Very enjoyable exercise.) I have more than 5000km on my B33 since I replaced the corks and the clutch works great.

As Dennis49 says, you need to select the best ones and soak then in hot water. There must be a thread in this forum with more detailed information.

Snow is in the forecast so I have terminated my riding season. Decided to investigate the leaking forks caused by the agressive tow truck operator this past summer.

On the right hand fork I found the circlip that retains the upper bush had popped out of place and was nicely nestled in the oil seal cavity. The seal and all other parts appeared in good condition.

On the left hand fork, the circlip was still in place. The seal and all the other parts looked good.

I guess the oil leaks were initiated by high pressure oil pushing past the threads of the oil seal holder. On the previous fork build, I only put nylon cord around the recess at the bottom of the threads of the fork sliding tube per the BSA Service Sheet. On this rebuild, I have put nylon cord in the recess and pink PTFE tape on the threads. Pink tape is intended for petroleum applications.

Good thing that the second circlip stayed in place, otherwise an Evil Knievel style jump would have been catastrophic.

Is the engine turning? If yes, then you have lost compression maybe due to a stuck valve or a fault with the decompression mechanism.

If the engine isn't turning, I would start by pulling off the primary cover. It could be a broken primary chain or the clutch assembly is spinning on the gearbox output shaft or ...

Glad to hear you had success.

I would loosen off all the fender (mudguard) attachments, then install the wheel and tighten the spindle. Loosen the yolk connections and tighten the wheel spindle again. "Bounce"the front end. If the wheel and spindle are correct, the fork legs should be parallel. The forks should function. If yes, finish the installation of the mudguard (fender). If no, may be someone else has an idea...