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Messages - hoogerbooger

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sorry wasn't clear. Was thinking of getting it on the road this summer with the paint as is . Then coming back to a complete tank repainting in the autumn/next spring.

most of the rust dimples have no sign of any crack in the paint/air source from the wondering what the likely cause(s) might be..... so anyone know.

Degreased and used metal prep ( phosphoric acid) this afternoon. Duct tape proved rubbish again in sealing at the fuel filler. Ended up using the filler cap with thin polythene and a cardboard seal ( to replace the rubber seal the paint stripper ate) This worked pretty well, but still leaked a bit when upside down. Electricians tape also seems to work well to protect paint around fuel tap hole.

(On reflection I'd recommend using the fuel cap for all stages bar the actual sealer. But practice getting a good seal with water in the tank first).

Removed the cling film and have dried the inside with vacuum sucking through & hot air gun on the outside (with care). That worked well. helped by a warm afternoon.

I do have some new paint damage around the filler cap, with a run that went from the cap along one of the top joints with the paint there now cracked and damaged most of the length.

However the paint wasn't good before with dimples ( I presume rust from underneath) plus various small chips and a big one around the centre bung.

Photos of damage attached.  What causes the dimples/rusting from underneith ?? need to avoid that happening again so what did the last person do wrong ?

I reckon the tank needs a complete respray really, but I'd prefer to do that later and first try to get the bike going and MOT'd. So thinking of doing very little now apart from clean up around the inside of the filler and apply the sealant.

If I do the respray later, roughly how long will I need to have it off the bike to let the petrol evaporate off before sanding down and spraying ?

Singles / Re: Carb - gaskets/sealing
« on: 17 May, 2018, 18:36:19 »
I have a new tufnol spacer. holding it against the flange with fingers, then holding it up against the cruel light of day, I can see a little bit of light peeking through in the mid portion.  May be up to 0.25 mm at most would be my estimate. So flanges are slightly bent towards the manifold.

So do I wet and dry sand on glass ? what grit is sensible ?

then as I have no O ring groove do I use a paper gasket instead ( so it'll be a paper gasket tufnol sandwich)

Singles / Re: Sump Plate - loose studs & sealing
« on: 17 May, 2018, 18:18:36 »
Thanks for all the advice.

right size spring washers arrived. So sump plate back on. No torque wrench so have just had to judge it ( but might borrow/buy cheep one to check if 10NM)

No sign of studs turning. Had repeated using Carb cleaner the Granville bearing fit & studlock. I hadn't previously been using much torque when the studs turned with nyloc nuts... so not that confident the threadlocker will prevent them shaking free...but we'll see. If/when I get the bike going I'll be doing some standing tests and very short trips with regular checks for leaks/movement.

All advice banked as I may need to use if the studs fail.  Thanks again.

( I am leaning gradually ! .... and progress is slowly being made !)

Singles / Re: Primary chaincase oil
« on: 17 May, 2018, 17:55:47 »
have been watching with interest. I think I'll try 20/50 as that's what I have for the engine.

I presume it's just a case of if the the clutch doesn't pick up/slips  ...but seems to be adjusted correctly ... then try one of the others.

Singles / Re: Sump Plate - loose studs & sealing
« on: 14 May, 2018, 18:46:11 »
I take it you mean use the bolts to test if I can fit sump to 10NM.

Then if that works I ought to be able to fit studs with thread lock .

By lock washers do you mean rectangular spring washers ?

I don't think the threads have failed, as I wouldn't have been able on the one to over tighten it.. so that it carried on going in for 5mm too far. Seems like the threadlock is not working well. ( Granville bearing fit & studlock)

(One other studs started turning inwards after I'd threadlocked it...seemingly when the nyloc section was engaged the stud. I stopped as soon as I saw it start turning.... and that stud ended up coming out)

I guess it could be an old rubbish batch of the product although I bought it online recently) .
Was also wondering whether the internal surface wasn' clean enough; or whether all the carburettor cleaner hadn't evaporaaed off; or whether there is wear on the threads so that the gap to fill is bigger .

Singles / Re: Sump Plate - loose studs & sealing
« on: 14 May, 2018, 15:13:44 »
points noted on the differing thread angle. Thanks.

Sounds like Malcolm thinks the risk is a bit of a leak rather than a lot ? A small amount of leakage seems bearable  ( & perhaps traditional !) Do you think I can be pretty sure it shouldn't be more than a small amount of leakage with spring washers ?

(Would nyloc nuts always have been used on 1960's sumps studs ? or have they come in later as a less shake proof option ? )

just used the stripper (Sealeater).  Duct tape didn't seal fully even with a patch of a couple of laminated  layers zip tied onto the filler.   So I suspect I will have some damaged paint when the cling film comes off

I have re-bottled the stripper.  I only had it in for an hour. swilled around all areas and then left it in differing position for 5 mins in between swills.  It's evaporated off inside now. can't see any peely  liner bits .... but then wasn't sure there was a liner. Was some white and blue paint ( presumably from the tank spraying) on the flat horizontal section below the filler and I can see this hasn't completely lifted. This seems to be the harder bit to swill as with one litre of stripper it won''t cover it.......and the filler was leaking hence I stopped.

1. would using the chrome tap be more likely to seal ? Any advice ?
as I'll need a better seal to swill the 0.66 litres I have left onto that section

Also ..If it's only local damage around the filler and petrol tap, I'm hoping to do a temporary touch I need to see if I can get it on the road in the next couple of weeks. Been looking for advice on the web and only seem to find full re-spray or small chip repair.

2. Anyone able to advise on something in between/ provide a good link ?

I can get the right paint/spray.  Was thinking remove any bubbled paint. sand to a tapered edge. Light sand a larger area around to provide a key on the good paint.  Cover protect  the parts not to paint. spray prime bare metal and an over-lap of part of the keyed area. then lightly de-nib if needed, then a few light coats of spray top coat.

Does that sound right ?

(I'd plug the holes so spray stays out of the tank).

Singles / Re: Sump Plate - loose studs & sealing
« on: 11 May, 2018, 18:16:35 »
Just tried using bsf nyloc nuts and it started winding in a 3rd stud & on unwinding took the stud out ! !

the nut went on a reasonably way  so I think these nuts were bsf threads ( as they were sold to me). Standard Bsf nuts seem to go on fine.....So I seem to have no choice (presuming I can get the stud to threadlock ok ) but to use standard nuts and spring washers.

This likely to be leak proof ?

Singles / 1965 B40F carb stud threads ? BSF CEI UNF ??
« on: 11 May, 2018, 17:27:15 »
I ask as the Amal site tells me to use nyloc nuts with my Mk1 concentric... so I need to buy these.

On a web search I'm getting conflicting info on the thread.  I've tested with some other 5/16 bsf nuts I have it wouldn't appear to be a bsf thread.

Anyone know what it ought to be for a 1965 B40f ?

Thanks Dean

insulation tape ? as in electrical insulation tape ?

( instructions say need to put a handful of gravel in to aid process hence my comment on shaking .. having said that I've done half an hour of shaking  with nuts n bolts in already, to scour off loose stuff)

I have all the chemicals and I'll probably do the prep and seal next weekend. I'm using Sealeater (di-chloromethane) stripper

Any more advice on minimising the risk to the external paintwork would be appreciated.

I was previously advised to wrap the tank in cling film to protect the paintwork. Will that survive Di-Chlorometane ?

( Presumably I should remove badges and rubbers to be on the safe side)

Also wondering what's best to seal the tank filler ?  In video of people using the de-greaser and metal prep after the sealant removal  they've used duct tape to seal the tank filler. Would this also be ok for the stripper ? I'm not sure whether it may get 'eaten' or not stay watertight.... particularly as gravel should be added for that stage)

Or for the stripper stage should I use the chrome tank cap ?

The tank will need to be emptied. I'm presuming using the fuel tap opening into a bucket.. Looks to me that some extra protection to the paintwork around the fuel tap opening may be needed ?

.....and then the tank will need rinsed .

advice much appreciated

Singles / Re: Sump Plate - loose studs & sealing
« on: 07 May, 2018, 18:39:49 »
I realise that ultimately helicoil may be necessary. But this s probably beyond me currently and if it can be done with the engine in the bike I'd need a professional with a decent lift. Hoping I can do something in the interim to get it running ....then I can size up what needs doing for a more decent restoration.

I used Granville Bearing Fit and stud lock.- It's a red one saying it is permanent.

Singles / Re: Sump Plate - loose studs & sealing
« on: 07 May, 2018, 16:31:30 »
Still having problems with studs. Thread locker not really working & I'm a bit worried when I put the nyloc nuts on they'll start moving the they were undoing them after leaving the thread lock to set for 2 days ( when the official setting time is 45mins)

Should standard nuts & spring washers be ok  to seal & stay sealed ?

as I'm presuming they're less likely to turn the studs. (I've checked and straightened the sump plate and filter - sump casing looks straight/level)

(the 2nd attempt with thread lock on the damaged hole was strong enough &  I could undo the nut on it. Had 2 attempts on the other lose stud and it just comes out . So have just had a 3rd attempt with no nut on it gripping with mole grips on non threaded bit... but now need to put nuts on with out dislodging/winding studs in)

(I did my best to clean out the case holes with carb cleaner & screwing in the stud a couple of times carefully. Cleaned up the studs with carb cleaner and wire brush....... no air line, so used track stand pump and football inflator nozle.  I thought I had blown out the carb cleaner and left it long enough to evaporate. not sure if it's dirt, residual carb cleaner or worn threads causing the problem)


Singles / Re: Removing rubber oil pipe
« on: 04 May, 2018, 17:04:03 »

I posted on same matter here. The advice I had...which worked.. is that the section near the clip needs to be twisted to unstick it then it should be possible to pull the pipe off.

I carefully used some mole grips. Was a bit tricky to get hold of it as the pair I have are quite large.... but it worked. The more central return pipe was harder to get at to get a I ended up using a small flat head screw driver and pushing it between the rubber and metal pipe to break the seal. Then managed to twist free with the mole grips. Sounds like you may not be changing that one though.

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