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Messages - hoogerbooger

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1
Singles / Re: leaky fuel banjo - MK1 concentric
« on: 16 August, 2018, 18:38:00 »
 Should the fiber washer be tight against the bolt shaft ?

the new fiber washers I have have a larger ID than the OD of the banjo bolt shaft...and it as leaking like crazy with that washer size

I swapped back the the old banjo bolt and washer with the new banjo .....and it still leaks, but a lot less. Whilst that washer fits the banjo bolt shaft snuggly it is a bit battered.

hoping not to resort to gasket sealant. Hoping it might just be getting the right washer



2
Singles / Re: leaky fuel banjo - MK1 concentric
« on: 06 August, 2018, 21:10:55 »
yes. new nylon filter & new fibre washer.

old washer looks thicker and was pretty scuffed...bit didn't leak

3
Singles / leaky fuel banjo - MK1 concentric
« on: 06 August, 2018, 19:33:35 »
broke the spike off old banjo.. replacement leaks....seems to be coming out around the fibre washer then dripping off the bolt head....rather fast.....fire risk !!

should I have greased the washer or somit ? 

I've looked at the top and bottom  surface of the banjo and they seemed flat. But I've given both a light sanding on glass in case there was uneveness.

Any any leaks tips welcome ...b4 I put it back on (and try to set the garage ablaze)

4
Singles / Re: B40 Speedo - wots the right one ?
« on: 06 August, 2018, 19:25:01 »
(bump)

can I double check I should be able to dismantle to remove and clean the drag disk/cup (leaving the magnet in place) without having to get it recalibrated  ???


5
Singles / Re: B40 Speedo - wots the right one ?
« on: 02 August, 2018, 11:12:04 »
I have the head out of the case, but have not tried dismantling ....as yet.

I've blown what out dust I can, but the symptoms persist. As the photos show there is a general layer of crud/corrosion  on everything.

Thinking about the symptoms (described in earlier posts) as the screatching is not continuous and is combined with the needle jumping across unreal speeds surely it must be the drag cup getting fouled somehow ? and not the drive spindle ??

Just had it running on a drill at 20-30 for 30 secs ok, then when I dried to increase the speed  sypmtoms occurred.  The speed at which symptoms starts varies. May actually be the acceleration that kicks it off.


So can I double check I should be able to dismantle to remove and clean the drag disk/cup (leaving the magnet in place) without having to get it recalibrated ???

Previously I was advised:
"It's only when you need to get at the drive spindle or the odometer mechanism that you are likely to disturb the calibration".

6
(bump)

should the needle be wiggly with lateral wobble when in place? or should it be fairly firmly held in place

7
I've got to that bingo. picture with spring in place is where I'm at ...but wiggly needle.

Should the cable go through the clip ? (I didn't with the old slide and it was fine)

8
Scary !

Drilled holes in a flat wooden block to sit the carb top flush on. Used a wooden dowel as a driver to get initial spray tube movement, then used a pencil as a driver that was fractionally narrower than the carb body hole, but which wide enough to jam in the spray tube .

The replacement 4 stroke spray tube proved fractionally wider than the one I took out. Nearly went pear shaped as snagged on last part of thread went a little off square and  knurled edges started digging in on one side. Managed to get it out, sand down the snagged bit . Sanded down the knurls so not quite as wide. went in easier then. tapped in with blunt end of a drill bit as the driver. 

all good fun !



9
My replacement throttle slide only has one hole for the cable to go through 1st,  then the needle.

( my old slide had separate holes for the needle & cable)

I've struggled with the new longer spring and got the cable and needle in...but the needle seems loose and wiggly. Spring doesn't seem to sit on the clip & hold the needle in place as firmly despite being stronger than the old spring.   Have I got something wrong. should the needle be fairly firmly held &  unwiggly  ( picture of new slide on cable attached)

(photo of old slide also attached for info)

10
Hi Richard

can you remember more about how you did it ?

Do I just need to find a good solid flat ended object as a driver that will contact all of the  top semi-circle of spray tube  ?

my worry was that with only a semi circle of brass it may distort before it budges free

11
I have a Concentric Mk1 on my B40 that has the Norton spray tube, with square cut out facing engine.

What should the effect of the cut-out be on the fuel mix? weaken or enrich ?

Also  I see elsewhere that the spray tube can be tapped out...so I could potentially put a 4 stroke spray tube in. If anyone has changed spray tubes and has an idea how best to do this with the Norton shaped tube, let me know. last think I wan't to do is have a go, fail and end up with a mashed one stuck in.

(need to be a member to post on the Norton Owners Club forum..otherwise I'd ask there)







12
Singles / Re: Any suggestion please
« on: 14 July, 2018, 13:50:01 »
agree. more info needed

indicate what you've checked e.g for air leaks; condition of carb; crap in fuel

I had an almost similar problem with my B40 of not being able to get it to idle and having to hold the throttle open to keep it going and a bit of spitting when I throttle down. But it had idled ok not long before having just put it back together............turned out to be the air filter shaking itself off and affecting fuel fuel mix




I knew my fuel and carb should be clean, but was advised didn't need much.   I didn't think I had air leaks at the engine manifold or too much wear in the carb


too much wear on the throttle s


I didn't think I should have air leaks

13
Singles / Re: right throttle slide type - without air valve
« on: 11 July, 2018, 17:43:10 »
cheers Julian. 

14
Singles / right throttle slide type - without air valve
« on: 11 July, 2018, 17:06:00 »
I've just bought a throttle slide for my Mk1 concentric and forgot to think about my lack of air valve, and air cable/lever. The one I bought is open on the air valve part rather blanked off as on my existing old throttle slide.

To use without air valve, cable & lever does it have to be blanked off ?

( in which case I'll have to decide whether to get the extra parts or get a blanked-off slide)






15
Singles / Re: B40 fuel tank
« on: 10 July, 2018, 11:07:21 »
I looked at the Indian tanks as potentially the easiest way to look original with the  chromed sides & have a clean rust free tank.

Having posted on correct original colours & colour matching different parts of the tinware, I wonder if this is something you should think about. I couldn't tell from pictures online how close those tanks might be to the colour on the rest of my tinware.  If you are not fussed about how close to original the colour you restoration is ( which some have told me depended on the original batch anyway) then I guess it's a case of buy the tank first then take it to an autoshop to colour match for the spraying the rest of the tinware.


I guess on a re

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