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Messages - hoogerbooger

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
1
The Star and Garter / Re: Dragonfly parts
« on: 15 February, 2019, 19:41:38 »
sometimes their website purchase system seems to show the wrong pictures or be unclear. If that is the case just contact. They've been very helpful.

2
The Star and Garter / Re: John Haynes
« on: 15 February, 2019, 19:39:16 »
ditto. being able to visualize the job before the point of no return was essential to plucking up the courage to have a go, that an a mug of tea whilst I read it again . Many happy memories of my old Ford Escourt van, Haynes manual .....and mugs of tea.

3
Singles / clutch case oil drain/level screws - not budging - any tips?
« on: 12 February, 2019, 21:32:16 »
Decided to check level /change the primary chain oil, but with my best fit screwdriver ( flathead screws) the screws ( level & drain) weren't budging. When I find a better fit screwdriver I might have more luck....but I don't want to mash the screw heads or damage the chaincase. So any tips?

 


 


4
Singles / Re: seat foam replacement - good sources ?
« on: 12 February, 2019, 21:00:58 »
Thank you.

4 happy customers  sounds like a good reference to me.  I shall give them a bell for a quizzing.

5
Singles / seat foam replacement - good sources ?
« on: 11 February, 2019, 20:18:55 »
The  seat foam on my B40 is obviously poorly.  If you rev the bike a rain of yellow 'dandruff ' descends. Very embarrassing.

Seat cover seems fine so hoping I can just buy the foam shaped preferably,or unshaped, somewhere & replace it myself. Anyone know a good source for the right sort of foam/pre-cut ?

( any other tips welcome)

6
Singles / Re: smiths speedo drive spares
« on: 23 January, 2019, 20:15:57 »
Just had a look at Rupert Ratio and wondering if a 2:1 ratio drive is right for your C15 ? If its a 1600 revs speedo a 2:1 drive seems to be best fit for a 18"wheel with 3.5" tyre ( as on a B40 Star) 

(So if you have  C15 star on 17" wheels you may find you over impress yourself with your speed !!)

Rupert Ratio indicates a 19:10 drive as the best fit for a 17" wheel with 3.5" tyre or a 18" with a 3" tyre.

If you know it reads ok then no probs. Otherwise consider if its possible to re-fettle to the better ratio. I presume Gaggs will know better than I on whats possible.


7
Singles / Re: Carb stud washers
« on: 19 January, 2019, 16:58:55 »
The Amal site says use nyloc nuts  on Mk1 concentric ( see link) However when I eventually sourced them I found I didn't have enough space to squeeze them in onto the stud on the tickler side.....as the nyloc nuts are deeper. Depends a bit on the thickness of the carb spacer. Originally I'm told they would have been fitted with standard nuts & spring washers..... which is what I now have. See link and comment on tightening spring washers.

http://amalcarb.co.uk/installing-amal-carburetters


( I also have a 1965 B40F.   The carb stud nuts on mine are 5/16 CEI/BSC nyloc nuts....took a while to find some. ended up buying from Nooky's Nuts)




8
Singles / Coil testing and appropriate Ohm reading ?
« on: 17 January, 2019, 14:07:45 »
I've just tested my Ignition coil, following the advice in  Rupert Ratio Vol 2 pg 287

It says there that for 6 V system one should get a reading of circa 1.7 to 1.9 Ohms or for a 12 V system a reading of circa 3.3 to 3.8 Ohms between the two LT Poles

I have a 6V B40F Star.

I'm getting different readings depending on where I press the probes on the LT poles.

On each pole there is a spare connecting tab. I'm guessing the nuts on the connected terminals will add resistance.  Jamming the probe into the hole in each of the spare copper tabs seems to give the lowest reading which was 2.9  Ohms. However cleaning the tabs reduced the reading to 2.5 Ohms.

(There is no continuity between LT & HT poles ... as should be the case)

I already know the bike will run with the coil, BUT should I be concerned that the different Ohm readings to that Rupert suggests may affect engine running/performance ?





9
Singles / Re: Help. Just attached battery wrong way round
« on: 17 January, 2019, 13:53:03 »
Looks like rectifier is ok. I've retested with multimeter (as per Rupert ratio vol 2) I have continuity between AC poles and the DC pole each time in only one direction. Also had same Ohm reading from both AC to Dc combinations.  Had not pulled leads off before and now realise I had previously had the probes on insulating coating of the rectifier !

Looking to me that I've been lucky and I disconnected the battery before damage. I hadn't tried any switch or starting the bike. However, one minute of the battery the wrong way round, with evident smell of hot wiring and was enough to realise the potential to catch fire.

10
Singles / ticker sticking - concentric Mk1
« on: 16 January, 2019, 23:05:55 »
Just had the tickler jam open. depressing it a couple of times helped but it continued leaking. so turned the fuel tap off.

I've just taken the bowl off and there's no evidence of dirt in the bowl, or valve seat. Viton tipped needle looks fine.   Old non stay-up Float intact with no fuel inside.

So I'm guessing its just the ticker itself. Could I guess be gunk I can't see in the tickler seat, but wingling hasn't produced any.

So any advice on  preventing the tickler sticking ?

 

11
Singles / Re: Help. Just attached battery wrong way round
« on: 16 January, 2019, 20:29:30 »
( Thanks Phil for the thread on fuse ratings. I also have two brown-blue wires to the negative battery terminal .....as the original circuit diagram shows. So will probably try two fuse holders with 10A continuous fuses)

OK then, I put the battery back in.  (Battery  was nearly full charged -  unloaded about 6.25V)

Lights & horn working &  got it to turn over briefly. But only briefly ...but this looks like a non-electrical issue ( the reason I took the battery out to top up was because I couldn't get it to turn over at all after a few months standing unused)

[I say it appears non-electrical because it now starts easily when tickled on a coldish day, runs evenly for say 15 seconds then cuts out. Tickle it again and it'll start ...then cuts out...so I'm thinking carburation/fuel supply issue][ I have no separate air valve on my concentric - so can't play with that]

I presume this start up only demonstrates that at least parts of the wiring is ok and the battery has enough juice to start up ? but doesn't necessarily tell me anything about the rectifier and alternator.

I set my multimeter to 10hms and tested all combination of pairs of terminals on the rectifier ( there are only 3 terminals. No continuity on any combination)

I took the battery out and set the ignition switch to the emergency start mode. I got one spit back at the carb. but then got it to fire for 3 or 4 cycles. got  it to almost start twice like this ..... before the tickler jammed and fuel started  spewing everywhere. !!!!  [looks like I'll have to remove and strip down.]

So currently not sure what to think on electrical damage.

Any suggestions on tests I can do to check the electricals for damage without a start up required ?



12
Singles / Re: Help. Just attached battery wrong way round
« on: 14 January, 2019, 23:58:56 »
I'll put the battery in the right way round on Wednesday and see if anything works. Will no doubt then be asking questions about how to check which bits are damaged. I'll not be sure where to start.

Is there a way a to check the alternator wiring without removing the clutch case ?  (I've not been in there before) I've just  taken the alternator cover off and peered in vainly. Well at least  it smells of oil in there and not burnt wiring....too little to see otherwise... very much hoping I haven't killed it.


There was unfortunately no in-line fuse.  What Amp rating is sensible on a 6V B40 ? & where do I place it.   I can see various bits of red Positive wire around the bike including where it  earths at the coil under the saddle & of course the +ve lead to the battery. Quickest place to get to would be in the head lamp cowl or on the +ve lead to the battery. Does it matter where ?






13
Singles / Help. Just attached battery wrong way round
« on: 14 January, 2019, 17:37:47 »
I've just been a prize prat. Connecting +ve  lead to -ve terminal of battery then -ve lead to positive. Took me a minute to realise, wondering what that electrical burning smell was !!

What am I likely to have fried ?

I'm presuming I will have killed something. Am hoping I haven't knackered the loom as  me and my multi-meter only vaguely get on.

It's a B40F Star. 6V Ignition set up - as it would have been originally .


14
The Star and Garter / Re: Machine dating info for Dvla
« on: 02 January, 2019, 22:08:01 »
Hi Calvin. 

I've found this forum and BSAOC services very helpful. Forum members and officers spend a lot of their time advising others (including numpties like me) helping to get/keep bikes  on the road (even when questions are not from BSAOC members) I think it's a little bit pint half empty to be put out that you need to get a postal order. So what if it's old school.

However hope all goes well with the C15 & happy riding.

15
The Star and Garter / Re: Amal concentric question
« on: 19 December, 2018, 18:13:13 »
I was advised:  paper gasket greased on the head; then heat spacer; O-ring; carb


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