On a wet afternoon I was looking through the new members handbook and tried to find 'Service Wall Charts' in the website library, as shown on pages 131 and 132. Does anyone know if these items have been digitised and if so how to find them?
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Hi everyone, does anyone recognise this Britax tail light ie model or what bikes it was originally fitted on? It doesn't look original on my 1950 B33.

I need to renew the pivot on the centre stand of a B33 plunger. I need the stud 65-4728 which shouldn't be a problem, but sourcing the pivot tube 29-4840 is not proving easy. I've tried Drags, Hawkshaw and KMc, can anyone suggest anywhere else?
It's quite a simple part to make as long as you have a lathe; but I don't!

Continuing my quest to improve my green credentials by reducing the amount of oil I leave on the road, I have removed the outer gearbox cover to change the gasket. I notice that the gearchange quadrant nut 2-1813 is loose. The locking washer is present and will prevent the nut unscrewing, but shouldn't the nut be tight before locking with the washer?
Secondly is there a recommended method to adjust the length of the gearchange control rod?

I'm looking for advice on making the oil tank connections on my B33 plunger as leak proof as possible. My set up on the return pipe is as shown on the Draganfly diagram. Should there not be a second fibre washer (25) between the banjo and the tank? The parts list suggests that there might be two.
On mine there is no washer 8 and the rocker feed banjo sits between parts 7 and 9 and seals with tapers, but how does nut 7 seal on to the threaded tube coming out of the tank? The end of the tube has a female taper but there's nothing in the nut to compress and form a seal. I'm wondering whether there's something missing/incorrect parts fitted.
Thoughts would be appreciated.

The rear hub on a B33 plunger has a spacer possibly part number 67-6032 with a ridge on one side. It fits into the drum before the backplate is fitted. The question is does the ridge face outwards or inwards?

I've just removed the primary chain case from my 1950 B33 plunger and noticed that there was play in the chainwheel causing it to not run true. Having stripped the clutch I still haven't got to the bottom of the problem, but according to Draganfly there should be a felt and a cork washer, parts 24-4232 and 66-3090 behind the sleeve (photo). Can anyone confirm whether these are normally fitted?
I'm presuming that the centre nut clamps everything tight so if everythings clean without burrs, it should work?

I'm wiring the dynamo circuit on a 1950 B33 and looking for advice on the size/grade of cable to use between dynamo and regulator and regulator and ammeter. My thoughts are 25A 2.7mm thinwall, but advice would be appreciated.
Cheers

Moving on from 'making electricity', I believe that bikes in 1950 were fitted with a MO1 magneto. Has anyone got experience of fitting a kill switch to one of these units?

I'm looking for a period headlight dip/horn switch to fit to a 1950 B33. Can anyone recommend a suitable source as many on the web are too modern looking?
Cheers

According to Bacon the rigid and plunger B and M bikes up to 1954 had the same pillion footrests and were an optional extra. Can anyone advise whether the one in the photo is the correct design? I don't think they were fitted with rubbers.

This question covers many of the older bikes, not just singles. I've just bought a 1950 B33 with plunger suspension to keep busy over the winter. There's certainly lots to do. Can anyone tell me what the length of the plunger springs should be and is it possible to dismantle the plungers without tool 61-3222 as in service sheet 213?
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Does anyone know who owns this BSA, BZ4250? Its registered as currently on the road.

Much has been written about the effects of alcohol in modern fuels, reacting with various materials in classic bike fuel systems. Some bikes seem to have no apparent problems, but I personally have suffered from blockages in the carb pilot circuit. Parked for a week, they would frequently refuse to start without first cleaning the pilot jet. The old monobloc jets were made of brass but I have just acquired a stainless and a manganese bronze pilot 376/076 from Burlen which I am hoping will not react with the fuel and sort out the problem. I'll trial both types in the coming weeks, weather and lockdown permitting.

Back in lockdown and I've just been looking at the model range '36 to '39. I'm rather bewildered by the range of 350s during this period. Side valve and OHV are clear, but what about:
350 OHV deluxe M19
350 OHV empire star B24 or R5
350 OHV silver star B24
350 OHV silver star B24 2 port
350 B26 and B26 2 port
and there were sport models as well. Were there really so many models and can someone tell me in simple terms what were the differences?
Cheers

Hi
Can someone clarify what was the original position of the horn on a '68 A50?
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Does anybody know if the rear brake drums for the C15 and B40 are interchangeable? Part nos 40-6018 and 41-6010. They use the same shoes, bolts and locking plates, and chain, and without having them side by side on the bench it would appear that the only difference is 45 or 46 teeth on the sprocket.

The pilot jets in amal carbs were traditionally made from brass. I notice that the pilot jet in the premier is now made from what looks like a combination of brass and steel. I'm assuming that the change to steel for the actual jet is to reduce the problems caused by alcohol in the fuel. The threaded body is still made of brass. There must be a good reason for this. Any thoughts?

Idle thoughts whilst confined to barracks. My early B40 has 10.9" long rear shocks. Looking at various suppliers' websites, it appears that from around 1963 onwards 11.9" shocks were fitted. If this is the case is anyone aware of any changes being made to the frame to accommodate the longer shocks, or does it mean that the back end is a little higher?

Hi
Does anybody know whether a C15 low level exhaust pipe 40-2835 is the same as fitted to a 1963 B40 41-2702 which I think is the same as 42-2718?
Cheers