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Messages - Dabbist

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1
Singles / Re: Running in troubles - engine fade
« on: 19 April, 2018, 18:35:36 »
Unless im looking at the picture all wrong, that nut is on the camshaft, not the crankshaft, it fooled me too at first. The hole next to it is for the timed breathing.
It's only there to take up end float on the camshaft and they didn't even bother with it on the B25.
I'd just use a spot of locktite 222 and tighten it up by hand with the bike in gear.

2
Singles / Re: Running in troubles - engine fade
« on: 18 April, 2018, 13:39:31 »
I'd be tempted to start with the really easy stuff. What's your battery voltage dropping to under load?
If the battery's a bit duff it can look fine when it's not doing any work, but fade under load.
If your charging circuit isn't working then it could be that the battery is giving up after a short while, increasing the revs will increase the output from the alternator, which might cover it up until you drop the revs again.
It's purely personal choice, but if I know there's something wrong I'll always fix that before looking for anything more complicated, even if I can't see it as the cause of the problem. If it doesn't fix the problem, at least it's done and eliminated from the list of possibilities.

3
Singles / Re: C15 tank beading
« on: 11 April, 2018, 09:17:06 »
I'm looking for some myself. They appear to be available for everything but the C15/B40 and I've wondered of any of the others can be re-shaped.
As a temporary measure, I've seen the readily available plastic edging for screens used to good effect. It'll look regent from fifteen feet.

4
Singles / Re: B40 crankshaft balance
« on: 02 April, 2018, 16:03:32 »
Well, Rupert says it's the right one and I'm not going to argue with him ;D

5
Singles / Re: B40 crankshaft balance
« on: 02 April, 2018, 13:56:11 »
Thanks Derek. I just spotted that one too. A bit painful for the wallet, but I've bought it anyway. Next option looks like it would have been getting one from the USA, but with postage and import duty I think it would have been about the same.
Cheers

6
Singles / Re: B40 crankshaft balance
« on: 02 April, 2018, 13:01:27 »
And so to the next question... where do I find a big end?
It's the Alpha B-24, but the only ad's I can find on the web say useful things like "late C15 or B40" which could mean any one of three as far as I know.
Cheers

7
Singles / Re: Fuse holders
« on: 02 April, 2018, 11:43:45 »
I've used these blade type fuses in a few bikes ( on and off road ) and never had a problem. They seem to 've a more positive connection than the bullet ones. Also I've never really trusted scotchlocks on things that vibrate or get damp, they actually have a very small contact area. I always solder the joints an cover them with heat shrink tubing.
I agree with thumpers though, a multi-way block would be a lot neater. You can get them for blade fuses too.

8
Singles / Re: B40 crankshaft balance
« on: 02 April, 2018, 10:53:11 »
Yup, that's pretty much what I was thinking too. I'm replacing all the other bearings and most of the bushes, so it makes sense. It's just a pain that it's the only one I can't do and consequently ends up as the most expensive.
On the upside, it means I'll get it professionally aligned and balanced too.

9
Singles / Re: B40 crankshaft balance
« on: 02 April, 2018, 10:08:21 »
Thanks chaps. Now I've played with it a bit more I'm beginning to think it may have to go off for a rebuild anyway.
At first inspection everything seemed smooth and nice. No play (but it's a 41-181 so I assume it's a roller bearing)
I cleaned the whole thing, emptied the sludge trap (very little in it) and squirted a bit of oil through, which duly appeared around the big end.
Once I had it in a couple of bearings to balance it I found that if I grab hold of the conrod and spin it over, it goes for about six or eight turns then tightens up considerably. If I reverse the rotation or squirt some more oil through it it loosens up again, but that doesn't feel right to me. Also, either I'm getting paranoid or I can now feel a bit of lumpiness when turning the con rod by hand.

10
Singles / Re: B40 crankshaft balance
« on: 01 April, 2018, 19:29:17 »
Aha! I'm now much more educated. I'd watched another YouTube which showed the crank balanced with the piston etc. in place.
Many thanks.

11
Singles / B40 crankshaft balance
« on: 01 April, 2018, 19:02:51 »
Hi All,
I'm a bit baffled by my  first experience of trying to balance the crankshaft on my 62 B40. I've acquired a +20 high compression piston, so assumed it would be out a bit.
It seemed way off and in fact balances almost perfectly with just the gudgeon pin in place. Admittedly the new pin has 2 1/2 times the wall thickness of the old one, but that still leaves 367g of piston and rings to account for, which feels like an awful lot to be taking out.
There are already six big holes in the flywheel, though none quite opposite the big end.
Does anybody know whether this is truly excessive, or have any wisdom to offer?
Many thanks

12
Singles / Re: B40 wheel bearings
« on: 25 March, 2018, 15:34:08 »
Hi folks,
             Sorry for the delayed response to this one. I got side tracked working on the head and crank case while the weather was cold.  Hitting it did indeed prove to be the solution in this case, so thanks for the steer on the direction of the thread.
Now I've just got to clean and refinish it while waiting for my rim to arrive from Hagons.
Cheers

13
Singles / Re: Chrome Rims - rust prevention
« on: 13 March, 2018, 18:59:00 »
There used to be product called Zoop, which worked really well on polished aluminium. Ive no idea whether it'll work for chrome, but I can't see why not. It's under another name now, but you should be able to find it on Google.
Alternatively a good coat of wax does well (though doesn't last all that long) or how about ACF50? I have my Guzzi treated with it every winter (including the chrome bits) and it works wonders.

14
Singles / Re: Front lights not working
« on: 13 March, 2018, 18:50:27 »
The other options for it going poof as you kick it over are that you moved it and something shorted or, if the battery is very flat (And it appears yours is) kicking it over generates a surge of power from the alternator which might short where the battery couldn't.
I'm tempted to look into the flapping wire. If that's the one that should be charging your battery, it might explain the lack of life on the ammeter and the poof as you put power down it, if it was contacting the tinware.

15
Singles / Re: Front lights not working
« on: 12 March, 2018, 21:59:23 »
I think Julian S has hit it on the head.  If you have smoke, something has burned out.  Physically check the wiring first of all.  Start where you think the smoke came from and if you can't see anything...

Is anything loose?  I've seen batteries move about and short against the tinware.
Look where wiring passes through anything metal (like the headlight shroud) in case a grommet has worn through and caused a short.
Look where wiring moves, e.g. near the steering head.
Look around any connectors that aren't well insulated. You might see arc strikes on the metal nearby.
As Derekanderson8 says, the light switch is a good candidate, it has moving parts that can become loose.
Also look where wiring can get caught, under the tank is a good one, it can wear there if it's not properly routed.

The lights stopping the engine is often a sign that the bike isn't charging.  If the battery's getting low (which yours obviously has) then it can't supply the coil and the lights as well.

Thinking about it, if you stick all that together then it looks like something either shorted and died or just gave up and stopped the bike charging.  Check out your rectifier/zener diode (I don't know what your bike has) as that could make smoke and stop it charging.

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