Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - RogerSB

Pages: [1] 2
Twins / Re: Simplified diagram of BSA clutch
« on: 31 August, 2017, 22:37:37 »
Cheers Eddie, got all that. I've already bought another pressure plate and this'll be a job for the winter months. If I mess up I still have my original set up.

Thanks for giving me all the details.

Twins / Re: Simplified diagram of BSA clutch
« on: 30 August, 2017, 21:45:27 »
Eddie, what do you reckon on this (PE400)?

Twins / Re: Simplified diagram of BSA clutch
« on: 30 August, 2017, 21:16:49 »
Many thanks Eddie.

Twins / Re: Simplified diagram of BSA clutch
« on: 30 August, 2017, 12:16:48 »
Hi Eddie,
Do I understand correctly that you mean the slightly rounded circular metal piece (as opposed to captive ball) inside the pressure plate?

Twins / Re: Simplified diagram of BSA clutch
« on: 29 August, 2017, 09:54:51 »
Hi Bess, I won't be as peevish as to say I'm glad I'm not the only one - but it is comforting to hear I'm not the only one they seem to want to drive away. A couple of months ago I ordered a pair of pillion footrest rubbers from them (they were advertised to be sold as a pair) - only one was delivered. Phoned same day as delivered and got a grumpy answer saying they'll put another in the post. They did do that but there was no apology made and I was made to feel it was my fault.

Now this push rod and them not following through quickly with a refund has made me learn my lesson and I won't order anything from them again. Instead I'll make use of their website (for free) when I want to check part numbers etc. and then order from someone else.

On a positive note, I've ordered a few bits from Priory Magnetos and received excellent and quick service. Andrew is very helpful and efficient.  Also had my chronometric speedo repaired recently by Philip Woods, also excellent. he quoted me for the repair but he found that there wasn't as much to do as he envisaged - so he charged me considerably less that he quoted. Not a lot would be that honest when it comes to easy money.

Twins / Re: Simplified diagram of BSA clutch
« on: 28 August, 2017, 21:32:28 »
Yes, and their name begins with a W?

Twins / Re: Simplified diagram of BSA clutch
« on: 28 August, 2017, 20:37:27 »
Thanks Bess, I'll make a note of it in case. I was going to ask you that in my reply a minute ago as I'm getting to the stage when I think if you mention Brit bike you'll be palmed off with something (like the wrong steel) and it'll be US.

Twins / Re: Simplified diagram of BSA clutch
« on: 28 August, 2017, 20:34:18 »
Hi Bess, thanks for reply. Yes and no, just wanted to save myself some work but may end up having to do that in the end.
First undersized push rod from f---d delivered just over 2 weeks ago, sent them an email same day as it was received pointing it out and reply received next day asking me to send it back for a refund because when they checked all their 42-3108 push rods were the wrong size. Fair enough, mistakes happen. Sent it back the next day by 1st Class post, but still no refund to date and no replies to my further emails.  :-\  They are still advertising it though!

Twins / Re: Simplified diagram of BSA clutch
« on: 28 August, 2017, 20:23:29 »
Hi Julian, no, not yet, must wait for a reply from from Dragonfly to confirm the size of the 42-3108 they advertise. If no joy I will definitely ring C& D autos (their website not up and running yet). Used them years ago for my D1 and C15 rebuilds when they advertised with whole pages of spares in Exchange & Mart.

Twins / Re: Simplified diagram of BSA clutch
« on: 28 August, 2017, 19:51:17 »
Thanks Julian, I did know the size should be 11.17/32". The only retailer I've seen that states that in their advert is Dragonfly. As far as I can tell most seem to advertise 42-3108 as 11.5". But it seems it's pot luck on what you actually get. I've tried two so far and both have been the wrong size. On the first one ordered I believed the advert and just ordered it, second one I made a point of checking with the retailer first and they confirmed the size but what I was sent was 11.13/32.  >:(  Thats 29-3860 for up to 1955.  So my next try is to order from Dragonfly to see if theirs is the length they actually state.

I think they just take us for a ride (excuse the pun).

Twins / Re: Simplified diagram of BSA clutch
« on: 27 August, 2017, 16:03:25 »
Thanks bikerbob,

I've been trying to buy one 11.1/2" long.  First one (pt no 42-3108) bought from f---- two weeks ago measured 11.3/8". I was asked to send it back for a refund because all they have in stock are undersized, so sent it back next day 1st Class - 2 weeks later still waiting for the refund. Second one from another online retailer measured 11.7/16.  >:(

No wonder there are so many problems with clutch.

Twins / Re: Simplified diagram of BSA clutch
« on: 24 August, 2017, 17:03:08 »
It's a bit of a lengthy story to repeat here. That's in my previous post: 'Clutch cable ferrule and gearbox abutment puzzle' 9-8-17.

My A10 GF was delivered to a dealer in Bristol 7 Jan 1960 so it would have been assembled in the factory during 1959).

I recently fitted a new clutch cable pt no 42-8774 (for 1960 - 62 models). Gearbox inner cover has cable abutment lug for earlier 1958 - 59 models (with slot at top and internal thread for adjuster) so I had to modify the later cable's ferrule.

I'm thinking: Could BSA have assembled it with an earlier gearbox to use up previous 58 - 59 model parts. Or has someone in the past fitted the earlier gearbox. I know the internals are the same, only the control cables with adjusters at the handlebar levers and the cable lug on the gearbox was changed for 1960 -62.

What I was trying to fathom out is why I have 'only just' the minimum free play with the new cable and the drawing was done purely for me to have something to look at to help me to work out if anything else could be causing it.  I posted the drawing as I thought it could help someone else not too familiar with the working of the clutch.

I now think my lack of free play can only be caused by the combination of the later 42-8774 cable and the clutch push rod being too short, so my next step is to try an earlier 67-8681 cable with the adjuster at the gearbox end and fit slide-in adjusters at the handlebar lever end and if that doesn't solve it try a new push rod . . . . if I can find anyone who has one of the correct length.

Twins / Simplified diagram of BSA clutch
« on: 23 August, 2017, 17:01:10 »
My BSA GF has a 6-spring clutch, although working well, it doesn't have the adjustment I'd really like (and no I don't want to change it for a 4-spring version or a modification).  Laying in bed at 3 am this morning and thinking about it (like you do) I was trying to get my head around what, if anything, to do about it now. There are two things I suspect - but I won't bore you with that. I intend to strip it, fit a different cable and lever set up and renew the push rod when I lay the bike up after the summer but as I ride regularly I don't want to lay it up now unless I really have to - even for just a  day or so.

As an aside, I have been preparing for it and ordered a different cable, cable adjusters and a new push rod in preparation. The push rod was delivered from a retailer (with an f in their name) but it was undersized. They told me they couldn't replace it as all the push rods they had in stock were undersized (and they still advertise them) so I had to send the useless push rod back to them so they could have more of them (at my expense for postage I may add). That was a week ago and still no refund!!!

Anyway, I started to produce a very simplified diagram to show the relationship between the clutch adjusting components so I could study it without it just being a picture in my head and I thought it may be of use to some others to see a simplified diagram of what does what and how and so I added a bit of extra info for that reason.

Twins / Re: Clutch cable ferrule and gearbox abutment puzzle
« on: 09 August, 2017, 17:37:02 »
Well, for anyone who may be interested here is my conclusion after the input from JulianS and Bess and my own follow up investigations.

My A10's gearbox abutment lug is the threaded type with a slot in the top for the cable inner to drop into (see photo) so cable pt no 42-8775 is not correct (as pointed out to me) for my gearbox inner cover, which was designed to accept the earlier cable with the adjuster at the gearbox end and not the handlebar lever end.

To change the cable for the earlier one, to suit my gearbox, I would need to change the handlebar clutch lever.

Not to end up with different style levers I would then need to change the front brake lever and then the cable for an earlier type with adjuster at the brake back plate end. Next thing to check was does my 8" front brake have the threaded type of fulcrum pin - answer is no (see photo) so that's not practical.

My conclusion or my guess is: Someone in the past has change the gearbox for the earlier type used prior to 1960 and that was why there was a bodge, with a washer, to be able to use a 42-8775 cable.  My bodge was a refinement of that - and as was pointed out the cable didn't have the right shape nipple to fit the operating arm anyway. I think it might be a Triumph cable passed off as a replacement BSA 42-8775 cable.

My easiest and least expensive choices, it seems, are:-

Buy another 42-8775 cable (making sure it has a nice round nipple to fit the gearbox clutch operating arm socket) and after spending an hour filing the ferrule down to fit the gearbox hole, fit it and keep the one in use at present as a spare.

Or an alternative (as suggested by JulianS) drill out the hole bigger in the gearbox abutment to take the ferrule of the 42-8775 cable.

Twins / Re: Clutch cable ferrule and gearbox abutment puzzle
« on: 08 August, 2017, 22:28:37 »
Thanks JulianS, Good to know levers are correct for my frame number. They look as if they've been on the bike for a long time - with the patina in keeping with the rest of the machine. I'd like to keep it that way if I can and I didn't really fancy the idea of fitting a couple of brand new, shiny levers that would have stood out like a sore thumb.

I just assumed (again) that the nipple on the cable was right for the gearbox adjuster arm. It seemed to fit in nicely so I'm now wandering whether the outer cover or the arm has been changed to a later one. If that is the case then I think the best way for me would be to buy another 42-8775 clutch cable and file the end down again and keep it as a spare. Probably last my lifetime! Also less troublesome than drilling out the hole (which I'd probably mess up). I intend to have a look at the shape of the recess in the arm and the nipple fit tomorrow to see if I can tell.

My front brake is 8" and when I fitted a new cable (42-8771) recently which had the adjuster at lever end I didn't notice the cable stop had any thread inside it (but then I didn't look) . If I do need to go down that route it seems a 42-8732 cable with a hub end adjuster for 1958 A10 (33" outer, 41" inner) is available, so I'll measure my existing one tomorrow and take a look at the cable stop.

The bike hasn't been restored but obviously things have been renewed over the years and has had a few improvements along the way. Belt drive to dynamo, converted to 12v using a V-Reg 2 voltage regulator, Eddy Dow fork dampeners.

Here's a photo of my Nutley Blue Golden Flash I owned in the mid 60's. Another with me astride it in Dorchester when on my way from Plymouth to Portsmouth when serving in the Royal Marines. I used to do the journey on my GF Portsmouth to Plymouth nearly every Friday evening and back again to Portsmouth overnight on Sunday to get back to barracks in time for morning parade. Took about 5-6 hours - as not many dual carriageways and no motorways then in this part of the west country.

Pages: [1] 2