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Messages - Phil C

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Singles / Re: Petrol tanks fixings
« on: 30 March, 2018, 16:48:12 »
Further to my previous email, I notice that the new bolt I have is quite a bit shorter than the old one(which is not in the best of nick - threads worn, bolt slightly bent). The old one was 4 and 1/4" long, whereas the new one is about 3 and 3/8". I'm inclined to use the new bolt and just shorten the bottom spacer.  Phil.

Singles / Re: Petrol tanks fixings
« on: 30 March, 2018, 16:10:46 »
Thanks. I've just noticed that when I put the bolt, spacers and rubber together, the bolt doesn't protrude through the top, so it's not possible to get the top washer(s) and nut on without compressing the rubber in some way first, or shortening the long (bottom) spacer. My spacer is 1 and 7/8" long. Is there any disadvantage to shortening it by, say, 1/4" or 3/8" or something like that, to allow me to get the washer(s) and nut on? That would seem the obvious, simplest way. AWJDT, I think you said something a while ago about having to shorten a spacer?

Also, the Draganfly website drawing shows a variety of small washers (plain and spring) under the top nut. The BSA service sheet no.64 (in Rupert Ratio) shows no smaller washer, just the wide washer which sits on top of the rubber, with the nut tightening straight onto it. I'm guessing the service sheet method is fine? Or either way, I guess?


Do any fuel additives help prevent/limit the rust?  Phil.

Thanks very much for this, Steve. I'm a long way from you - South Devon. I'm not sure there is a coating in mine - looks a bit like it's maybe been blasted in some way? I could be wrong of course.  Phil.

Singles / Petrol tanks fixings
« on: 30 March, 2018, 13:28:44 »
I've bought, from Draganfly, some centre bolt fixings (chamfered rubber, two spacer tubes, washers, etc) for my 1965 B40F. Rupert Ratio (vol 2, p. 204) tells me:

"...the critical part is the spacer tube inside the rubber, which must be of the correct length to permit the rubber to be compressed by the right amount as the centre nut is tightened.This tube is approximately 1/4" shorter than the top surface of the rubber."

I've just measured my tube and my rubber: the tube is just over 3/8" shorter than the rubber. Is that too big a difference? I guess I could just try it and see, but thought I'd ask your opinion(s), as I reckon some of you will know.

Thanks in advance.


What would be a good rust-removing liquid for patches like this (see photo)? Doesn't seem severe/widespread enough to necessitate techniques such as electrolysis?

Also, will it get worse even with petrol in it, or will the petrol prevent the rust getting worse?


Like A10 JWO, sorry to jump on the thread. Mine (see photo) looks similar to hoogerbooger's. Is that a coating/sealant of some kind, or bare metal? I'm thinking it might be bare metal? Also, I assume the dark spots are rust. Would they get significantly worse even when covered with fuel, or would the fuel protect them by preventing much air or water getting to them (I believe rust needs air and water?)   Phil.

Singles / Re: Basic electrics, 1965 B40F
« on: 29 March, 2018, 15:56:36 »
Thanks very much indeed, AWJD Thumper - I get it! Thanks very much - that's made my weekend! 


PS Bess suggested I drop the (novice) bit after my name. I thought about changing it to Phil (clueless), but thought I would try to build my confidence by leaving it out.  Thanks again!

Singles / Re: Basic electrics, 1965 B40F
« on: 28 March, 2018, 18:33:26 »
Okay, thanks AWJDT, that makes sense, even to me. So the wire NU can have current flowing both ways in it at the same time (the two-way street Bess described.)  And the current for the lights etc always flows from the battery, never straight from the alternator/rectifier. Please tell me that's right!

Also Julian I get the bit about the alternator output control via the switches (kind of!) - thanks for that.

By the way, just before this I thought I had posted a message asking three questions, but I don't see it posted - I hope it didn't come across wrong in any way and so was removed  - can't think how it could have, and certainly didn't mean it to.

Thanks everyone for your efforts and patience.

Phil (novice)

Singles / Re: Basic electrics, 1965 B40F
« on: 28 March, 2018, 17:19:38 »
Totally confused again!

Singles / Re: Basic electrics, 1965 B40F
« on: 28 March, 2018, 16:23:06 »
Steve, I already have the book, but there are still some basics such as this that I'm not grasping. Thanks for your patience, Bess and AWJDT. I am understanding some, but not all, of what you say. For example, I now know that current passes both ways in wire NU. But for example I'm not sure what "passes to the system" means exactly. I think I'm not making very clear what it is that I don't understand. If I could bother you a bit more, please tell me if this is right:
When, at high revs, the alternator is producing plenty of voltage, more than the battery, it will send current directly to the headlight etc, via the left hand wire (GB) from the rectifier, and via switch contact number 7, without it going via the battery. The alternator will then send what is left over along the middle wire from the rectifier, NW, through the ammeter and on via wire NU to recharge the battery, if it needs it. If the battery doesn't need any charge, nothing will be sent to it.

Is that right so far?

Wiring diagram attached.    Hard work this, isn't it?!   Phil (novice)

Singles / Re: Basic electrics, 1965 B40F
« on: 27 March, 2018, 23:20:11 »
Actually there is a second wire at the -ve terminal, but that goes to the horn and stop lamp, so is obviously irrelevant to this discussion.

Anyway, if somebody could answer my two questions, in an idiot-proof way, then I'd be grateful.  Thanks in advance.

Phil (novice)

Singles / Re: Basic electrics, 1965 B40F
« on: 27 March, 2018, 23:07:48 »
Two very basic questions:

1. When the alternator powers the lights, is it always on a route via the battery, or does it sometimes send some power direct to the lights without going via the battery?

2. When the alternator feeds the battery, via the rectifier, through which wire does that power enter the battery? Other than the earth (via frame?), the only wire in contact with the battery is the NU wire at the -ve (live) terminal. If the EMF in that wire is going away from the battery, to power lights etc,  then how can the alternator send power to the battery through it?

Phil (novice)

Singles / Re: Basic electrics, 1965 B40F
« on: 27 March, 2018, 21:35:56 »
Here is the wiring diagram.

Singles / Basic electrics, 1965 B40F
« on: 27 March, 2018, 20:42:15 »
I'm trying to get my head round the wiring diagram for my 1965 B40F.  he power generated by the alternator, I believe, goes to the rectifier, where it is converted to from AC to DC, and then to the battery. Could some patient person please explain to me, a clueless novice:

1. What route does it take?

2. When the engine is running and lights on, does all the generated power go to the battery, which then powers the lights, or does some of it go directly from the alternator to the lights and some to top up the battery? Again, which routes?

I have the wiring diagram in the Haynes manual which I can refer to to try to understand any explanations (and I assume where it says ignition coil it means ignition switch?)

Thanks very much.  Phil (novice)

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