Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - Caulky

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 5
Twins / Re: '71 A65L valve timing
« on: 06 April, 2018, 10:00:35 »
There is no problem with the R/H inlet valve, except the timing is too early.
This is why I am going to try both inlet valves fitted.
I suppose it could be valve to valve clash, with all valves fitted, rather than valve to piston.

Twins / Re: '71 A65L valve timing
« on: 05 April, 2018, 19:08:21 »
Thanks chaps.
I think firstly I'll put both inlet valves in, to see if it still locks-up.
Which was the original problem.
As you say, things could be out, just using one valve fitted.
Alternatively, I could try clocking from just from the pushrods. (inaccurate I know).
I used the R/H inlet valve because the clock faces the wrong way on the left side, frame in the way, and its a long type.
Its bad enough trying to get the clock rigid as it is.

Twins / Re: '71 A65L valve timing
« on: 05 April, 2018, 17:55:38 »
Sorry about the time lapse, can only work when the weather is reasonable.
The data I have is from the book, at .015" gap, inlet opens 51* BTDC, closes 68* ABDC.
I presume the mid-lobe is not half-way between these two points...uneven ramps?
Now, SRM give at .020" gap, inlet opens 45* BTDC, closes 78* ABDC, duration 303*.
Some time ago Mr Pete of Australia RIP, stated set the gap to .040" to avoid the inaccuracies of the lead-in ramp.
Inlet opens 28* BTDC, closes 47* ABDC, Lobe centre 99.5 ATDC.

Results for mine, @ .020" gap, opens 63* BTDC.
At .040" gap, opens 45* BTDC, closes 34* ABDC, mid lobe 92* ATDC.
Far too early.
So, is the mid-lobe 99.5*?
If I set the mid-lobe at the correct point on the crankshaft, remove the jocky-wheel, then rotate the camshaft wheel to suit, then re-insert the jocky-wheel, is this a good move?

Twins / Re: '71 A65L valve timing
« on: 26 March, 2018, 20:23:36 »
Thank you, I will check it out and get back to you.

Twins / '71 A65L valve timing
« on: 26 March, 2018, 17:21:45 »
Hi All
Before the winter break and fitting the pushrods. rocker gear, etc, turning the engine using a spanner on the rotor nut, it jammed BTDC.
So, I thought piston hitting the inlet valves.
I set it up with just the right inlet valve, clock and degree-wheel.
Today, I thought, check the timing marks... they are OK, but for the left valve, hence I had to rotate the engine 360* for the R/H side.
I set the gap to .015" as per the book.
The valve should open at 51* BTDC, but mine begins to open 16* before that, but strangely the piston and valve doesn't collide!
So it must be the left?
I should add that everything is new and the head was sent away for an overhaul, new seats, valves, gas-flowed, etc.
Something is wrong, any suggestions would be appreciated.

Twins / Re: Firebird oif Frame repair
« on: 06 March, 2018, 08:36:48 »
These people may help, found their ad. in Real Classic magazine:

Twins / Re: Gaskets and gasket compound
« on: 28 February, 2018, 11:47:11 »
Depends on which model and year?
I use grease on paper gaskets, blue hylomar for metal to metal gaskets and other types of gaskets.
Head gasket...nothing.

Twins / Re: Headlight bulb lighting
« on: 21 February, 2018, 17:21:08 »
If switch 11 is not switched on in ignition mode, there are no lights
The front brake switch is #12 (N) brown.

Twins / Re: Headlight bulb lighting
« on: 21 February, 2018, 11:58:45 »
My '71 A65L wiring diagram shows a 3/4? way ignition switch.
The diagram is very poor, as is the description and all of the switch innards; whoever drew this didn't have a clue.
The key ignition/light switch has 3 terminals: 1 (N/G)is the feed from the battery/rectifier. 2 is (W) ignition, flasher unit . 3 (N/G) is pilot, rear light and instrument lights.
The rotary switch on the headlamp shell appears to be #11 shown as 'Switch' description.
So, what does switch #11 do?
Answer: (position 3) It is normally open, (ignition OFF) pilot light and rear light ON. (parking/breakdown emergency lighting).
But, in position 2 just the ignition is connected via R/H handlebar switch. (W to W/Y).
The engine is now running and you need lights. Switch #11 turned on, connects a U (blue) to the N/G.
Engine running, pilot on, dipped light on, rear lights on.
You could use the main beam by flipping the flipper switch, Pilot light is always on. 

Twins / Re: What spark plug caps? (And plugs)
« on: 07 February, 2018, 10:32:40 »
I always use Champion N3 plugs because they seem to be better and that's what the book specifies.
If you are going to fit an EI ignition set-up, it depends on which type.(digital or analog).
The digital type require loaded plugs or caps.
I generally use loaded caps because any plug could be used in an emergency/plug failure.

Twins / Re: wassell power module on A65
« on: 29 January, 2018, 10:26:54 »
See this thread about measuring diode resistance:

Twins / Re: Zener Diode
« on: 27 January, 2018, 12:48:54 »
To test the zener with a multimeter, treat it as a normal diode (with connection wires removed).

I just tested a 1N4148 on my old analogue meter, about 20 Ohms in the forward mode, infinite in the reverse mode.
Use this if you have one, digital meters may give erroneous results.

Be warned, autoranging digital meters may give silly results when testing diodes on the Ohms ranges.

Twins / Re: A65 charging
« on: 06 December, 2017, 11:44:14 »
You may have cooked your battery, they do not like being over-charged. (and could cause a fire)
The zener is manufactured to limit the voltage to about 15V-ish.
When the rectified Voltage from the alternator reaches the zener cut-off Voltage, It passes current (Amps) to earth.
It gets hot, hence the heat sink.
This limits the Voltage to the battery.
i.e. say the Voltage output (without zener) is 20V, the zener needs to reduce this Voltage by 5V.
In avalanche mode, the resistance of the diode may be very small. Say 1.0 Ohms.
W (Watts) = E squared (Volts) / R (Ohms) so, 5 x 5 = 25/1.0 = 25 Watts.
W = EI so I = W/E, I = 25W / 8V = 3 1/8 Amps.
The diode plus heatsink must dissipate 25 Watts as heat. It needs a good airflow across it to dissipate this heat.

Twins / Re: A65 OIF Filter
« on: 25 November, 2017, 10:03:53 »
Wash it in a bath of paraffin (kerosene) and put it back.

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 5