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Messages - Bess

Pages: 1 ... 3 4 [5] 6 7 ... 24
61
Twins / Re: Clutch slipping ??
« on: 06 April, 2018, 17:32:31 »
Hi,
    Is the oil level and or the grade of oil correct?

Best wishes...

62
Twins / Re: A65 OIF Clutch Advice
« on: 06 April, 2018, 17:29:40 »
Hi,
     The reduced length would make the difference, also check that the 7/32" ball bearing is still located in the push rod pin on the timing side.

On the clutch spring nuts I use a flat piece of steel 1" wide 8" long the exact thickness to fit the nut slots to start them. On the other end of the steel it has a slot to allow the bolt to pass into if the bolt extends past the nut.

Good luck and best wishes..........

63
The Star and Garter / Re: Where shall I get my exhaust system ?
« on: 06 April, 2018, 17:19:58 »
Hi,

My recent experience; exhausts from a British company (no names) for an A50, had to make adjustments and took me all day to fit. I recently bought a two into one exhaust and silencer for a A65 from Armours and had no problems whatsoever. I believe Armours do not supply to others to sell on.

Best wishes...

64
Twins / Re: New to owning bsa and advice needed.
« on: 04 April, 2018, 14:49:47 »
Hi,
     I have attached an image example for Julian's description....

Best wishes...

65
Twins / Re: A65 Rear Footrests.
« on: 04 April, 2018, 14:06:50 »
Hi,
    Your welcome, best of luck with the project. Hopefully you can post a few images soon?

66
Twins / Re: A65 Rear Footrests.
« on: 03 April, 2018, 20:59:14 »
Hi,
          Part number 02-0861 dimensions are 3/8"x3/4"x0.092".

It could be part number 29-7565 which looks thicker:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BSA-29-7565-Spacer-Passenger-Foot-Rest-NOS-NP5639-/391554880016


Best wishes...

67
Singles / Re: Basic electrics, 1965 B40F
« on: 28 March, 2018, 21:52:47 »
Hi Phil,
          Hope all works out for you, it's great to see another person keen to keep a BSA on the road.

ps: please remove the novice tag, you're in the fold


Best wishes..........

68
Singles / Re: Basic electrics, 1965 B40F
« on: 28 March, 2018, 17:40:16 »
Hi Phil,
          I would just ride the bike and worry if things go wrong...........

69
Singles / Re: Basic electrics, 1965 B40F
« on: 28 March, 2018, 17:12:34 »
Hi,
     Sorry the frame is the 2 way street not NU cable. Got mixed up with +ve not pushing but actually receiving ::)...

70
Singles / Re: Basic electrics, 1965 B40F
« on: 28 March, 2018, 16:50:05 »
Hi Phil,
           From the wiring diagram it has a emergency start position, the ac side of the alternator is used to start the bike. This is where the battery is flat and using the emy ignition position you can start and run the bike, the battery is used as a voltage stabiliser. When the battery has some charge rotate the switch back to normal or the battery will be damaged.


Best wishes...

71
The Star and Garter / Re: dvla new commitie
« on: 28 March, 2018, 15:55:02 »
I did it right, it was the others...

72
Singles / Re: Basic electrics, 1965 B40F
« on: 28 March, 2018, 13:44:40 »
Hi Phil,
          I cannot see the colours too well on your drawing, however answering your last questions:


1. What route does it take?

From the rectifier middle wire (NU), this passes to the system, through the ammeter onto the battery via wire (NU) and gives a +ve reading on your ammeter.

2. When the engine is running and lights on, does all the generated power go to the battery, which then powers the lights, or does some of it go directly from the alternator to the lights and some to top up the battery? Again, which routes?

When the engine is running and the voltage from the alternator is greater than the battery it travels from the rectifier middle wire (NU), this passes to the system, through the ammeter onto the battery via wire (NU) and gives a +ve reading on your ammeter. If the engine is off or the revs are not enough to generate more than the battery stored voltage the voltage travels from the battery through NU to the system giving -ve on the ammeter.

The wire NU is a two way street.

Note:
(i) when electric current was first discovered people didn't know which way to choose and they assumed that it flows from positive to negative. Later it was proved that it is the other way, electrons seeking the positive terminal.
(ii) the ammeter is in series so power passes through it

73
Singles / Re: Basic electrics, 1965 B40F
« on: 27 March, 2018, 22:11:01 »
Hi Phil,
          Imagine the battery and alternator as pumps.

When the engine is running at slow speed the alternator is not pumping enough to run the system so the battery pumps out, this is shown as negative on the ammeter. When the engine speed increases slightly the alternator pumps say the same as the battery, this is shown as zero on the ammeter and the system is in equilibrium. When the engine is running at an increased speed the alternator via the rectifier pumps more than the battery the alternator feeds the system and charges the battery, this is shown as positive on the ammeter.

The rectifier has to convert to DC to charge the battery

With this in mind follow the cable routes on the diagram.

I hope this helps somewhat.

Best wishes...

74
Twins / Re: '71 A65L valve timing
« on: 26 March, 2018, 19:39:33 »
Hi,
     As the only thing you have had overhauled is the head, check the push rods are installed correctly. Or more worryingly you could have an issue with the valve spring cups or valve springs.

Some cups and spring combinations are not compatible and the spring diameter doesn't fit into the cup lip but rests on the lip, hence the spring is under additional compression causing coil bind.
or
Some aftermarket springs have larger diameter wire in the coils or an extra coil causing coil bind.

When this happens the push rods take the stress and either bend/break, or if you're turning over slowly give a small but noticeable resistance. I suggest taking the rocker cover off, turn the engine slowly and check for a gap between the coils with a feeler gauge.

If you are having an issue buy new springs from SRM, they have commissioned springs to match the originals.

Best wishes...

 

75
Singles / Re: Fuse ratings
« on: 26 March, 2018, 12:35:06 »
Hi,
    Realistically the fuse protects the cable. I rewired my bike using the smallest cable for neatness. Because modern cables have greater current carrying capabilities I calculated the bike load, fitted the smallest cable possible, then protected the cable with a fuse with a value below the max cable current capability.

I suggest you check the size and number of cores of your bike cable research the max current for the cable, then fit a fuse below the cables max current capabilities. All should be well for all your electrical items including the stop light, horn and coil inrush current.

Best wishes....

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