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Messages - Trev

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Twins / Re: A65 basket case
« on: 10 July, 2017, 11:24:01 »
I'm hoping to be able to get a puller behind the clutch center but after that I have read so many problems with extractor tools being stripped on the threads trying to remove the last part.
These are the instructions that came with my puller, I have yet to use it though! Correct Puller use; "Only tighten the extraction bolt gradually and once tight a quarter turn at a time. Once tight, tap the end of the extraction bolt with a metal hammer after each quarter turn until the taper is broken"

Twins / Gearbox grub screw removal
« on: 27 June, 2017, 11:26:34 »
I need to change the gear shift selector forks. Is it possible to access and remove or loosen the spindle retaining grub screw while the gear box is still in the frame? Has anyone actually done this, and if so how did you do it?

Twins / Re: A10 gearbox problem
« on: 02 June, 2017, 14:19:18 »
Thanks everyone for all your comments, suggestions, and advice. Well, I thought better give you an update. I think that the problem is more or less resolved. It looks like the cam plate plunger was the source of the problem. There was 4 threads visible below the camplate lock nut, so I screwed the plunger up about one and a half turns. That seems to have done the trick. Oddly on the test ride when changing up from first to second it did stick a couple of times and then everything settled down and worked perfectly. I might just give it a small tweak, but as it appears to be functioning correctly now, I will leave it for now unless the problem returns. Not sure why raising the plunger should have had that effect but it has.

Twins / Re: A10 gearbox problem
« on: 05 May, 2017, 10:12:36 »
Thanks everyone for all you input. More than a few things to think about there. I shall have to it seems, bite the bullet and take a look inside the box although I am not so sure that I am competent to make a clear diagnosis. Can I do this with the box in situ or will I have to remove it? One thing I have just remembered, is that the gear shift spindle has some movement, that is to say it has some slack, I can pull it in and out could this be an indicator of where the trouble lies? It occurs to me that maybe it needs to be shimmed to prevent this? or am I just clutching at straws?

Twins / Re: A10 gearbox problem
« on: 04 May, 2017, 13:03:17 »
Roy, thankyou for your response. No, the engine is not running when on the centre stand, I do however revolve the rear wheel in the direction of travel, and the chain is as far as I can tell, correctly adjusted. The way in which I adjust the chain is to check the tension with the bike off of the stand so that the weight of the bike is on the suspension. I do recognise what you are suggesting though, as whenever I have set the chain tension with the bike on the centre stand it always seems to be on the tight side. The problem is I know nothing about the workings of gearboxes, and therefore I am rather reluctant to start stripping it for examination. I really would not know what to look for. The sympton of what happens while changing between 1st and 2nd is not unlike that of the return spring being weak or having failed. I have rearsets so I have 1 down 3 up, and if I hook the pedal up after 2nd has failed to engage, it will then engage after doing this. All rather weird really.

Twins / A10 gearbox problem
« on: 03 May, 2017, 11:16:15 »
I have an intermittent gear selection problem. Sometimes changing up from 1st to 2nd the operation is stiff (not sure if that is the correct way to describe it)  when this happens there is no positive feel to it. The same thing happens when changing down to 2nd from 3rd. If I move the gear lever back to the central position then normally when I retry the gear engages perfectly. The return spring is OK as far as I can tell, and the gear lever returns to the central position as it should. This problem does not occur when changing up or down from 3rd to 4th and vice versa. This only seems to occur when the box has warmed up a bit, that is to say after I have ridden a few miles, I have not encountered this problem when the gearbox is still cold. This problem normally happens perhaps only once or twice during a ride, and often not all. The clutch is adjusted correctly as far as I am aware because I can easily select neutral while stationary from either 1st or 2nd. The gearbox oil level is correct. Can anyone offer any suggestions about what might be causing this problem? Incidentally, when the bike is on the centre stand I can select all gears with no problem and the gear lever seems to be operating correctly. One other thing that might be relevent that perhaps I should add. It never jumps out of gear.

Singles / Re: Fork Stanchion Bottom Nut
« on: 10 March, 2017, 19:54:27 »
When I contacted Draganfly Motorcycles asking if they had the Tool/Spanner p/n 61-3003 (as per that tool shown on the diagram) they said "no, that spanner is too small to fit the bottom fork plug..."

I am very much afraid that it is Draganfly that have got it wrong. This is what BSA service sheet No706 list as the tools required for telescopic fork dismantling, 'A', 'B', 'M' group, and C10, C11G, and C12 models.

61-3001 fork top nut spanner
61-3003 fork plug spanner
61-3005 oil seal holder assembly tool
61-3006 oil seal extractor
61-3007 oil seal assemly tool
61-3350 fork leg assembly and removal tool.

The service sheet says this: Grip the shaft in a vice using  soft jaw clamps on the unground portion of the shaft and unscrew the gland nut (f) Fig X4 Service tool 61-3003 is designed for this purpose.

Quite clearly Draganfly have no idea what they are talking about!

Singles / Re: Fork Stanchion Bottom Nut
« on: 07 March, 2017, 12:25:28 »
The part number for the tool you are looking for is 61-3003. I bought mine from Lighting Spares some while ago. I would try asking Draganfly if they have one because they bought all the stock when Lightning Spares closed down. C&D Autos might also be worth a try.

Twins / Re: Non-branded supermarket petrols
« on: 26 February, 2017, 16:46:38 »
The problem I had was with the ethanol disolving the old tank sealer, forming a sticky varnish over carb slide which caused carb to stick open. Not nice. Solution - strip old sealer and reseal with ethanol resistant.
Ethanol resistant sealer? Ethanol proof I would suggest is more satisfactory. Ethanol resistant would not protect the sealant indefinately. The problem is how do you define resistant? OK for current ethanol levels? But what about future increases in ethanol percentages? Sadly there is no turning back the clock. The genie is out of the bottle now.

Twins / Re: Colour code BSA Goldstar
« on: 19 February, 2017, 15:28:30 »
Do you really mean RGS and are you talking about the silver or red petrol tank colour?
Actually, the RGS is not silver and red as most people believe. It is in fact silver and maroon, I have know idea what the maroon paint code is though.

Twins / Re: A10 rocker cover banjo oil feed union bolts
« on: 14 February, 2017, 19:10:24 »
Thanks for that Julien.

Twins / A10 rocker cover banjo oil feed union bolts
« on: 14 February, 2017, 11:31:34 »
Can anyone tell me about the rocker union bolts? (65-137) the BSA spareslist shows quantity 2, however, I believe that there should be two different bolts (65-137 & 65-138) one has a larger hole than the other. 65-138 does not appear it the parts list is this an error? If the two bolts are indeed different which way round are they supposed to be fitted?

Twins / Re: A10 rocker cover
« on: 11 February, 2017, 12:21:51 »
I hope your using one of my solid copper gasket sets, to stop the leaks.
Indeed I am and it is due to the front nearside of the cover leaking that I have had to tackle this task. I also intend to use this (see image below) with the copper gaskets. This is what the product claims to be and to do. " An anaerobic sealer which means it only sets on the contact of metal and closure from air. If any is squeezed out it will not set and cause damage inside the engine. It stays liquid and dissolves into the surrounding liquid, unlike normal Rtv/Silicone sealer which will cure and cause damage from blockages". It is an exercise in 'belt and braces' I am sure that your copper gaskets are every bit as good as you claim they are, but I don't want to take any chances. I know that the rocker covers are notorious for leaking, and I really do not want to repeat this exercise any time soon. It really is a dreadfull concept.

Twins / Re: A10 rocker cover
« on: 11 February, 2017, 10:59:02 »
Thanks for all your comments gents. As I feared it looks as there is no easy or simple solution. If I had maching skills I would investigate making some studs that were about 1/8" shorter to give just a little more room for manoeuvre.

Twins / A10 rocker cover
« on: 10 February, 2017, 16:26:12 »
Anybody know of a fool proof method of refitting the A10 rocker cover, and keeping the the pushrod location tool in place while doing so?

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