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Messages - BEVANC

#16
The Star and Garter / Re: Fibre washers
14 June, 2021, 10:38:40
I found that the fibre washers I bought from a plumbing shop here in N Z. were really hard and shiny. They did not seal well unless I sanded the shininess off them,  effectively roughing up the sealing surfaces up a bit. Cheers, Bevan.
#17
Hi Michel, my S29 runs fine with the timing set to points opening at tdc on full retard. This is what the owners manual recommends. I think that equates to 10.7 mm or 35 degrees before tdc if fully advanced. Cheers, Bevan.
#18
Pre War / Re: Valve guides
12 March, 2021, 18:56:55
Gidday Mike, not sure about our Slopers, but I was advised by POC experts against using them in my Panther - they are renowned for seizing the exhaust valve unless the clearances are what most engineers would regard as worn out ! Cherts, Bevan.
#19
Pre War / Re: 1930 S30 complete rebuild
01 March, 2021, 18:13:31
There's a very small limit on file size for attachments on this forum  so is hard to share stuff directly.
I have a file of useful Sloper info I can share with you if you want to email me: clarkb@mthutt.school.nz.
Cheers Bevan
#20
Pre War / Re: Carburettor for BSA H30-10
22 January, 2021, 18:49:47
Hello Artur,
Further to Alan's reply - I am no expert, but I think that if you can find any Amal Type 6 carb with a 1" bore, it is likely to be suitable. Suitable jets and rebuild kits are available from Burlen Fuel Systems, U.K.
Cheers, Bevan
#21
Pre War / Re: Toolbox catches
16 November, 2020, 05:12:30
A Panther Owners Club member, Bruce Sharman, has made catches for toolboxes on vintage Panthers. He runs https://www.bygonesparesandrestorations.com/
and is very skilled. He is in Perth, Western Australia.
Could be worth contacting if you can't find anything suitable.
Cheers, Bevan.
#22
Pre War / Re: Dating a Sloper engine
08 November, 2020, 20:14:50
That's interesting, thanks Julian.
#23
Pre War / Re: Dating a Sloper engine
08 November, 2020, 18:05:39
Thanks for the info gentlemen,

The XW1652 engine is for sale, scruffy and missing rockers & rocker box. I was considering buying it in an effort to acquire spares for my S29 (engine P 12434). Price is uncertain at the moment.

There is another engine (P 12174) for sale on our N.Z. online auction site which seems more or less complete, but I fear it will go out of my price range (its already at NZD 2000)

Cheers, Bevan
#24
Pre War / Dating a Sloper engine
08 November, 2020, 02:17:58
Hi folks,
Could anyone suggest a likely date for a 500cc ohv Sloper engine with number XW1652  (looks like a 6, but might possibly be 1852). It has been suggested that it could be 1930, but I'd appreciate some guidance on that.

My bike is definitely 1929, which raises another question: were there any significant differences between the 1929 and 1930 engines (I know that the frame was updated, but not sure about the  engine) ?

Cheers, Bevan
#25
As a matter of interest, I've attached an extract from the 1930 Sloper Owners handbook - the leading quadrant tooth is ground down.

KS jamming is a common issue with Burman boxes as well. Replacement Burman quadrants supplied by the Panther and the Ariel owners clubs have the first tooth ground partly away - see attached image.

Cheers, Bevan
#26
Thanks Alan,
Things have gone backwards since my posting unfortunately. I took up a bit of play in the control arm and went to go for another test ride, but as soon as I put it jnto gear, it locked the gearbox and stalled the engine. I have a suspicion I know what's happened, but am away for a few days, so probably won't get back to it until next week. I'll make a video of things since it saves a lot of typing and put a link in this thread if you (or anyone else) would be good enough to take a look and provide an opinion.
Cheers, Bevan
#27
Hi folks, can anyone suggest what would be an appropriate amount of side to side play (endfloat I guess) for the selector shaft in an S29 3 speed gearbox ?

I've just done a brief test ride after reassembling the box with a replacement selector shaft (the original fractured at one of the fork collars) and find its a bit uncertain when shifting into 2nd gear. 1st and 3rd seem OK.

When 2nd is engaged with the engine stopped, bike on the stand and the inspection cover removed, I can lever the selector shaft towards the ks end so that I can  get a 30 thou feeler gauge between the shoulder on the shaft and the bushing at the clutch end.

Seems like quite a lot of play, so was wondering if that could be the cause of the dodgy 2nd gear engagement.

Cheers, Bevan
#28
Pre War / Re: 1929 Sloper 3 speed - clutch pushrod
09 October, 2020, 01:38:43
Thanks folks, sorry I wasn't specific enough - it's a 4.93 hp ohv 500cc twin port, so looks like 11 17/64 ths may be it.
I've just bought some new silver steel rod which I'll need to cut to length. A bit reluctant to chop it in two unless there's a clear advantage. The inner of my main shaft feels a little bit notchy in places but the greased uncut rod seems to slide back and forward through it ok. Another question if anyone can tell me: should I make a radius on the ends to match the ball in the pressure plate, or leave the end flat ? Cheers, Bevan.
#29
Pre War / 1929 Sloper 3 speed - clutch pushrod
08 October, 2020, 20:54:15
Hi folks, could anyone please tell me the correct length for the clutch pushrod for my S29 3 speed Sloper ?

Also, is it a good idea to have it in two parts with a ball bearing inbetween or not ? My Panther & Ariel have one piece pushrods, but the badly worn one in my Sloper is two piece.

Thanks, Bevan
#30
Pre War / Re: sloper valves
24 August, 2020, 02:19:35
Hi Mike,
I could be interested, depending on what material is used to make the valves. Do you have that info ? A recent valve discussion on the AOMCC forum produced the recommendation that the valves should be "plasma nitride coated" if working in cast iron guides (am I correct in presuming out Sloper guides are cast iron ?).
Cheers,
Bevan