I found that the fibre washers I bought from a plumbing shop here in N Z. were really hard and shiny. They did not seal well unless I sanded the shininess off them,  effectively roughing up the sealing surfaces up a bit. Cheers, Bevan.

Hi Michel, my S29 runs fine with the timing set to points opening at tdc on full retard. This is what the owners manual recommends. I think that equates to 10.7 mm or 35 degrees before tdc if fully advanced. Cheers, Bevan.

Gidday Mike, not sure about our Slopers, but I was advised by POC experts against using them in my Panther - they are renowned for seizing the exhaust valve unless the clearances are what most engineers would regard as worn out ! Cherts, Bevan.

There's a very small limit on file size for attachments on this forum  so is hard to share stuff directly.
I have a file of useful Sloper info I can share with you if you want to email me: clarkb@mthutt.school.nz.
Cheers Bevan

Hello Artur,
Further to Alan's reply - I am no expert, but I think that if you can find any Amal Type 6 carb with a 1" bore, it is likely to be suitable. Suitable jets and rebuild kits are available from Burlen Fuel Systems, U.K.
Cheers, Bevan

A Panther Owners Club member, Bruce Sharman, has made catches for toolboxes on vintage Panthers. He runs https://www.bygonesparesandrestorations.com/
and is very skilled. He is in Perth, Western Australia.
Could be worth contacting if you can't find anything suitable.
Cheers, Bevan.

That's interesting, thanks Julian.

Thanks for the info gentlemen,

The XW1652 engine is for sale, scruffy and missing rockers & rocker box. I was considering buying it in an effort to acquire spares for my S29 (engine P 12434). Price is uncertain at the moment.

There is another engine (P 12174) for sale on our N.Z. online auction site which seems more or less complete, but I fear it will go out of my price range (its already at NZD 2000)

Cheers, Bevan

Hi folks,
Could anyone suggest a likely date for a 500cc ohv Sloper engine with number XW1652  (looks like a 6, but might possibly be 1852). It has been suggested that it could be 1930, but I'd appreciate some guidance on that.

My bike is definitely 1929, which raises another question: were there any significant differences between the 1929 and 1930 engines (I know that the frame was updated, but not sure about the  engine) ?

Cheers, Bevan

As a matter of interest, I've attached an extract from the 1930 Sloper Owners handbook - the leading quadrant tooth is ground down.

KS jamming is a common issue with Burman boxes as well. Replacement Burman quadrants supplied by the Panther and the Ariel owners clubs have the first tooth ground partly away - see attached image.

Cheers, Bevan

Thanks Alan,
Things have gone backwards since my posting unfortunately. I took up a bit of play in the control arm and went to go for another test ride, but as soon as I put it jnto gear, it locked the gearbox and stalled the engine. I have a suspicion I know what's happened, but am away for a few days, so probably won't get back to it until next week. I'll make a video of things since it saves a lot of typing and put a link in this thread if you (or anyone else) would be good enough to take a look and provide an opinion.
Cheers, Bevan

Hi folks, can anyone suggest what would be an appropriate amount of side to side play (endfloat I guess) for the selector shaft in an S29 3 speed gearbox ?

I've just done a brief test ride after reassembling the box with a replacement selector shaft (the original fractured at one of the fork collars) and find its a bit uncertain when shifting into 2nd gear. 1st and 3rd seem OK.

When 2nd is engaged with the engine stopped, bike on the stand and the inspection cover removed, I can lever the selector shaft towards the ks end so that I can  get a 30 thou feeler gauge between the shoulder on the shaft and the bushing at the clutch end.

Seems like quite a lot of play, so was wondering if that could be the cause of the dodgy 2nd gear engagement.

Cheers, Bevan

Thanks folks, sorry I wasn't specific enough - it's a 4.93 hp ohv 500cc twin port, so looks like 11 17/64 ths may be it.
I've just bought some new silver steel rod which I'll need to cut to length. A bit reluctant to chop it in two unless there's a clear advantage. The inner of my main shaft feels a little bit notchy in places but the greased uncut rod seems to slide back and forward through it ok. Another question if anyone can tell me: should I make a radius on the ends to match the ball in the pressure plate, or leave the end flat ? Cheers, Bevan.

Hi folks, could anyone please tell me the correct length for the clutch pushrod for my S29 3 speed Sloper ?

Also, is it a good idea to have it in two parts with a ball bearing inbetween or not ? My Panther & Ariel have one piece pushrods, but the badly worn one in my Sloper is two piece.

Thanks, Bevan

Hi Mike,
I could be interested, depending on what material is used to make the valves. Do you have that info ? A recent valve discussion on the AOMCC forum produced the recommendation that the valves should be "plasma nitride coated" if working in cast iron guides (am I correct in presuming out Sloper guides are cast iron ?).
Cheers,
Bevan