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Messages - BEVANC

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1
Pre War / Re: 1932 side valve starting problem
« on: 12 June, 2018, 20:23:54 »
Congratulations on getting the bike going !  All old bikes do have their peculiarities, so hopefully you've identified the correct technique for yours.

It is a bit surprising that it started on full retard.  I realise my '29 ohv Sloper is a different beast to yours, but it won't start on full retard; in fact I can stop it by fully retarding the timing.  It might be worth just checking that you have indeed got the timing setup correctly.

Also, it is possible that the pilot jet may have been blocked but this has now cleared. It could be useful to check if there is any residue in the float bowl which could get sucked through and clog the jet up.  I am assuming you have a fuel filter ?

My bike needs to have the carb well flooded and with the air lever fully closed before it will start from cold. Having done that, I also turn it over with the valve lifter in, so that it sucks some fuel through.  I then ease it over tdc and do a long swinging kick, only releasing the valve lifter once the engine is spinning.  It will then chuff into life near the bottom of the kick.  I confess that I haven't fully mastered the hot start technique, which can be troublesome at times.  The carb gets incredibly hot, so I may look to fitting an insulating spacer.  Or it could also be a sign of a failing magneto.  Time will tell.

My carb has no throttle stop screw and I'm guessing yours does not either.  I have a throttle cable adjuster a short distance from the handlebar which I use in conjunction with the air screw to get the lowest steady idle.  In fact, I have it set a little fast since I don't want to risk stalling it at a busy intersection.

I would be interested to hear how things go, so please keep us posted. A photo or two would be interesting.
All the best,
Bevan

2
Pre War / Re: 1932 side valve starting problem
« on: 09 June, 2018, 23:23:00 »
Hi there,
Based on your description, I'd suspect either: the carb; or perhaps the mag timing has slipped\jammed so that it is way, way advanced; or a stuck valve ?.  Spitting back through the carb is often a sign of a weak mixture.

I imagine that you have already done most of this below, but this is what i would do, more or less in this order:

Starting with the easiest thing first, I would:
- check that there is a good free flow of fuel to the carb.
- confirm you have good compression, that the valves appear to be opening and closing correctly, with correct clearances.
- verify that the points gap is correct; the ignition timing is correct (also - is the advance retard cable\mechanism working correctly) ; that the mag is still producing a good, blue spark. Replace the spark plug.

If all seems in order there:
- check for air leaks at the manifold\gasket (if its a flanged carb, then overtightening the bolts can result in it warping and admitting air).
- check the float level & verify that the float is not leaking\damaged and is free to move correctly.
- dismantle the carb and check that all the jets are clear, especially the pilot.

This is what I would do, but those with greater experience may have better suggestions.
Keep us updated on how things go.
Cheers,
Bevan

3
Pre War / Re: Balancing Act
« on: 21 May, 2018, 03:21:15 »
I've posted your query on the Britbike BSA forum to see if anyone there has info - I'll let you know.
Cheers,
Bevan

4
Pre War / Re: Sloper primary chain lubrication adjustment
« on: 08 May, 2018, 07:52:43 »
Hi Tony,
Here's a couple of pics of mine - may be similar to the one on your bike.

Also, a short video of the "breathing" noises with the oiler removed:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JHbwMKxtg1I

Cheers,
Bevan

5
Pre War / Re: Sloper primary chain lubrication adjustment
« on: 08 May, 2018, 02:50:29 »
With my S29, I came to the conclusion that the primary oiler was simply the condensed crankcase oil fumes, thus it was acting as an engine breather. If I am correct, it would probably not be a good idea to block it off. From recollection, it is easy to unscrew the adjuster and examine it. I have some photos of mine somewhere I can dig out if it would be of use. Cheers, Bevan

6
Pre War / Re: Colour code for BSA Sloper tank 1930
« on: 01 May, 2018, 09:20:16 »
No problems. I will need to repaint the tank on my S29 in due course.
Always interested to see photos of other Slopers if you have any. Also, I'd be interested to know what gearing yours is running - engine sprocket & rear sprocket teeth. Mine seems to be extremely low geared.
Cheers,
Bevan

7
Pre War / Re: Colour code for BSA Sloper tank 1930
« on: 30 April, 2018, 05:54:42 »
Hi Hans,
Can't help with the code, but a Google search found this website:http://www.classic-motorcycles.co.uk/bike_paint.shtml.  A screenshot is atached.
Cheers,
Bevan

8
The Star and Garter / Original E30/14 Outfit
« on: 28 April, 2018, 22:07:22 »
Hi folks,
During a recent visit to a wonderful motorcycle museum, I spotted this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=83y11i5bezg

Thought it may be of interest.
Cheers,
Bevan

9
Pre War / Re: 1930 BSA B30-3 Side Valve
« on: 05 April, 2018, 01:38:06 »
If they are similar to the same era Slopers, then there is no support plate.  On my S28, the cam spindles are fixed into a D shaped hole in the case and the other end is supported in steel bushes in the timing cover. The engine main shaft is supported in a ollite bush through which oil is pumped to the bjg end.
Cheers,
Bevan

10
Pre War / Re: 1926 Flat Tank restoration - parts needed
« on: 31 March, 2018, 23:14:51 »
This might be the chain case - could be cheaper to get one made !
Cheers,
Bevan

11
Pre War / Re: Blue Star rocker lubrication
« on: 22 March, 2018, 06:14:49 »
My '29 Sloper rockers are similar to Julian's picture - I pump grease into them every now and then; too much and it oozes out and onto the exhaust pipe !

12
The Star and Garter / Why
« on: 14 March, 2018, 02:57:14 »
Apologies if this has been explained previously - As a non-UK resident, I am puzzled by some bike adverts that end with "why".
Could someone please explain the significance of this ?
Cheers,
Bevan

13
Pre War / Re: 1929 Sloper kick start
« on: 13 March, 2018, 00:08:34 »
Thanks Calvin; that is a useful fix if needed.  I think my spring is probably o.k., because my ks is in the same sort of position as Deans when at rest.  It is the angle at which it initially engages which is the problem.
All will be revealed I hope when i get time to open it up.
Cheers,
Bevan 

14
Pre War / Re: 1929 Sloper kick start
« on: 07 March, 2018, 18:43:36 »
Will do.  Could be a month or two - I'm trying to get the final few things sorted on the rebuild of my Panther Sloper before i take the BSA apart.
Cheers,
Bevan

15
Pre War / Re: 1929 Sloper kick start
« on: 07 March, 2018, 08:36:22 »
Thanks for the comparitive info Dean; I will have to open up the gearbox for a looksee - my ks is at a similar angle to yours when at rest, but does not engage until approx 80 degrees off the vertical.  My guess is that the leading edge of the quadrant is missing a number of teeth - can't think of any other explanation.
Cheers,
Bevan

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