Hi gentlemen of the Beesa Fraternity.

I have just sold my last Bike and have some stuff around that I no longer need. Not a great deal but etc.

So if i can help email address is phahmah@outlook.com

Mike

 

Greetings
My son has an unfinished Sloper that he is finding it impossible to finish because of other commitments. Therefore he is looking for someone with Sloper experience to do the job for him. All of the major engineering is done both ends, rebore, piston has been respun to original sizw and shape etc and the engine is rebuilt and in the frame. Not sure about the gearbox but I think so. Mag done etc  Frame and wheels etc all sorted, but a fair bit wants doing. Small parts are perhaps missing.

This is possibly an ideal project for someone who would like to do a rebuild but doesnt have the time or the money to buy one. Obviously he is going to pay all the costs.

Bike is currently at Haywatrds Heath but that is not a problem.

Anyone interested would like to PM me and I'll set up communication with him. Distance is not a problem

Mike

 

Greetigs, once again as said this is not specific BSA but may be of overall interest. As previous post so not going to repeat too much.

I have an old dry lined international 4 cyclinder engine that has been full of water and one liner is pitted beyond rescue.  The proper replacement liners are not available because the later engines had slightly larger bored liners

The newer liners are about 1/16" ID larger, and the new pistons are Aluminium rather than cast iron. So we have a greater displacement and a lighter piston. Essentially its max revs about 1200 and the comp ratio is about 5.5:1. These points would not change.

I wonder what the general thoughts are about fitting the later liner whether it would be radically different and whether it would completely unbalance the engine and cause catastrophic failure. If it had 5 main bearings I would just go for it.

In truth I am inclined to do it but thought I would run it by you all to garner opinion and wisdom. So your thoughts please.

Mike

 

Hi All. This is not BSA but it could have BSA implications, tho in truth I am looking for inspiration and advice.

The situation is thus. I have a 1943 Farnall Tractor engine that I rebuilt several years ago. Then sold the tractor. The buyer died and said machine was left standing out with no cover on the upright exhaust pipe. So a cylinder got filled with water and the piston rusted in etc.

Have freed the piston and stripped engine which is dry lined. The place in the bore were the piston was rusted in became badly pitted as a result. The piston is not too clever but can be carefully cleaned and reused. Almost all of this model was modified by fitting a lager bore liner. This one isnt modded and no original liners available. The Mod is 1/16 larger The cost of replacing all 4 liners etc is relatively prohibitive.

Now I have thoughts of "repairing" the cylinder wall with the liner in situ. In other words filling the pitting. My thinking has gone down the routes from Something like JB-weld to silver solder. In truth I believe it only needs something to diminish the risk of the pitting breaking the rings.

The pitting is probably too deep to rebore and new pistons are not available. So gents how about coming to the aid of an oldish man and donning your thinking caps.

Again apologies for using the site for this. but I know a lot of us have had similar problems.

Mike

 

I am having trouble with the log in system. I come up as guest. Do all the biznis and log in.forever. then 2/3 times down the line I hve to go through the same rigmarole again. I can understand when DVLA screws me up, but not dear ol' BSAOC.

Advice please.

Mike

 

Good evening as per th etitle this is bit 'off piste' for Beesa Forum, so please bear with me.

My two sons, both in their fifties and as yet untouched by sanity,are planning to go to Chennai pick up a couple of bikes from the factory and ride back. The reason I say off piste is because they are plotting on picking up a couple of RE Himalayas.

There are a couple of reasons for my posting this here. one is of course that the Gold Star is I believe also produced in the Chennai area so this may be of interest to other would be adventurers.

Another reason of course that someone on here knows or knows of someone who has done similar. Its by no means unique and help and/or advice would be very welcome.

And lastly it may just turn out to be a good tale.

As I said its not BSA and if anyone objects violently I shall not continue.

Mike

 

If you receive a new bank card out of the blue earlier than expected-----do NOT ACTIVATE IT---It could well be a scam. Check with your bank. If you activate it, it will immediately empty your account to an untraceable No. Same is true of any card you receive that doesnt look right.

Mike

 

Greetings.

I am having trouble fitting a gear in the casing cluster. It will go in to  the point where the studs are almost flush with the Gear B frame then it stops dead and no amout of "raesonable" persuation is effective.

So I guess something is jamming. I've never had a problem before. Was the casing or the cluster ever slightly changed. In my distant memory I think someone once posted here about a similar prob.

Any advice gratefully accepted.

Mike

 

 

Hi.

If you are contemplating buying an Indian tank you might consider doing what I did. In order to get a perfect paint match I bought a half litre of the same paint spec from the supplier. They were perfectly happy to oblige.

Mike

 

"The Book" gives three different thrust washers for Gearbox. 42-3079. 42-4312* and 42-4313*  Of these * there is only +005" difference

How do I measure which one is correct thickness.

Mike

 

Its a bit late in my career to be asking this but: -

After us 8)e how should you leave your torque wrench. 1. Under spring pressure  2. All pressure released  3.As you used it.

I have no idea.

Mike

 

When were the first A65's actually sold.

Mike

 

Greetings. I have spent a couple of hours today doing nothing and pccasionally letting my thoughts 'roam'. What I am about to say may have huge holes and not a grain of truth; however!

I am told that in the lateish 60's that BSA had developed a 4 cylinder across the frame engine/bike for the next racing season and that on the eve of the first races, the project was cancelled  and the whole of the BSA Racing was shut down.

Something in my mind tells me that, oddly, about 18 months later Honda produced their  "500 Four" a beautiful bike with a super smooth engine and , I believe relatively trouble free.

So my mind drifted to the question, is there a connection? Coincidence or chicanery? there is little doubt in my mind providing the BSA engine existed.

Mike 

 

I wish I had said this.

I was very young when I was born, and I had absolutely nothing.

Now I a 82 and I still have most of it left

Mike

 

Greetings.

I have a slight problem here. I cant get my Cam shaft gear onto the shaft even with judiciuos application of FBH. Seriously gently.

Were there two different cam shaft gears, I know the cam shaft is the correct part No. OR is there an almost identical item from another Bike

Mike

Thank you

  .

Hi

I'm looking for some high level pipes fo my A65. Where is a good place to go.

Mike

 

Hi All..
Is twin pack adhesive eg Araldite toxic.

Is Filler eg P38 toxic.

I dont think so but I should be pleased to hear your opinions.

Mike

 

Greetings gentlemen of the BSAOC fraternity. Assistance please.

Hopefully some pics arrive wih this post.

Where does the brake activating rod run. Above the level of the swin arm as per the pic and inside the rear shock. Or is it supposed to run below the level and parrallel to the arm.

Further please. Thinking in terms of a clock face, where should the activating lever be in relation to the end of the spindle. I think it should be at about 10 oclock but cant remember and cant find a picture. I dont have the tie rod/bar at the moment so I cant use that to compare.

Thank you

Mike

 

Greetings

I am just settin out on a rebuild/resto 1966 A65TA. I have a minor problem with rear brake plates.

Early model plate 68-6020 for right hand side of wheel, I have two.

Later model plate 68-6130 for Left hand side of wheel, I dont have.

The casting diferences between the two are obvious. I have offerred up a complete early plate and it seems OK. dimensions etc fine. I can weld up the extra hole.

So my Q is. Does anyone know if there will be a problem area that is not obvious to me. Or would anyone have a good swappable. I'll pay postage both ways

Thanks

Mike