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Messages - AWJDThumper

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61
Twins / Re: New to owning bsa and advice needed.
« on: 04 April, 2018, 09:05:54 »
Hi and welcome to the forum.

I'm not an expert on pre-unit singles and so will leave the other experts on the forum to answer those questions. In terms of the crankcases, the engine number identifying them is only normally stamped on one of them - I'm not sure there is any way of tell whether crankcases are actually a matched pair. In general, all crankcases should be matched to ensure the bearings for camshafts, crankshafts, etc are precisely aligned in the two halves. That said, it is possible with a bit of luck to use mis-matched crankcases but there's no guarantee you won't end up with tight shafts in bearings. It's all about tolerances.

62
Bantam / Re: New and considering a Bantam
« on: 04 April, 2018, 08:43:23 »
If the dealer can't get it running right then I would leave it well alone as the problems may be much more involved than just the electrics.

63
Singles / Re: C15S 1959 Oil Pump total oil loss from oil tank
« on: 04 April, 2018, 08:35:01 »
Hello thanks for the help again. i stripped the oil pump which looks ok. i think the NRV bearing may have been stuck. Its free now. Can you tell me which hole leads to the inner NRV?

Sorry but another question. Before stripping the bike I checked to see if oil was going back into the tank. The pipe that i thought would let oil back into the tank appears to be a sealed tube that sweeps upwards and ends up inside the filler cap opening. I checked inside with a mirror but couldn't fathom out how the oil would return. No doubt I'm missing something obvious!
It's likely to be the hole closest to the inside of the crankcase. To check, simply blow down the other two holes and they should be connected to the inlet and output pipes to the oil tank. As indicated in Julian's diagram, the return into the oil tank is via a small hole in the pipe at the top of the tank. Just blow through the rubber return pipe to the tank and make sure it's unblocked.

64
Singles / Re: B40 Front Hub
« on: 03 April, 2018, 19:04:02 »
For reference, Central wheel Components charged me 375 for a set of S/S C15 rims and spokes. Complete rebuilds would add about another 180.

65
Singles / Re: B40F sump ball valve
« on: 03 April, 2018, 18:59:53 »
I don't think the ball bearing can cause a problem if it fails to drop down. Its function is to stop a flow of oil back into the sump which happens when the ball falls down under gravity to block the exit from the pipe. As long as you are getting a normal flow of oil tank into the tank, then there's probably nothing to worry about. If you've got an airline, try blowing down the return line coming from the engine to see if it dislodges the ball bearing. I'm not even sure you can remove the scavenge pipe from the pump and so it's unlikely the ball bearing has been removed.

66
Bantam / Re: New and considering a Bantam
« on: 03 April, 2018, 16:50:00 »
It's best to buy a good runner because 2-stroke engine problems can be difficult to sort out. The later the Bantam, the better they were with the 4-speed D14 being much better all round than a D7. Have a good look at the engine and check for damage to casings, covers, barrel and head. The engine casings and covers, in particular, were made from thin aluminium alloy and are very easily damaged.

67
Singles / Re: Fuse holders
« on: 03 April, 2018, 14:43:45 »
No. It relies on the tapered and pointy ends to fit into the spring clips at either end.

68
Singles / Re: B40 oil in timing case
« on: 03 April, 2018, 14:42:42 »
I've just had a look at an early inner timing cover and the original drain hole looks to be about 1mm in diameter. In terms of gaskets, just use a jointing compound. I tend to use Hylomar Blue but there are plenty of other types that are equally good.

69
Singles / Re: C15S 1959 Oil Pump total oil loss from oil tank
« on: 03 April, 2018, 13:29:45 »
If the engine hasn't been run very much, I would definitely put some miles on it first before coming to a final decision on whether the feed NRV is a problem. If you're lucky, it might even cure itself after enough oil has been pumped through the it.

70
Singles / Re: B40 oil in timing case
« on: 03 April, 2018, 13:27:12 »
It's difficult to know why someone would plug the drain hole - I'll see if I can measure the required diameter if you need to re-drill it.

71
Singles / Re: Fuse holders
« on: 03 April, 2018, 13:21:26 »

72
From what you can see of my tank (see photo), would you say use the shaking method followed by a derusting agent, or just use a derusting agent, or do nothing for now?  It's not bad enough to need the shaking method, is it?   Phil.
The patch shown isn't much to worry about. However, what does the bottom of the tank look like inside on either side and what does the roof of the inside of the tank look like because that can go rusty because its not usually covered in petrol?

73
Singles / Re: B40 oil in timing case
« on: 03 April, 2018, 12:51:38 »
The engine breaths through a small hole just to the right of the camshaft bush and it's normal for oil to be blown into the space between the inner and outer covers. As said, this should drain back into the crankcase through a small hole at the bottom of the inner timing cover. If the hole is blocked, the oil level will build up and could end up coming out of the kickstart shaft as there is no oil seal there. Any chance of a pic of the offending brass plug?

74
In answer to your questions:

Q1. It's much easier to use a rubber bung to seal the outlet from the tank.

Q2. The shaking will only remove loose rust - you still need to remove the film of rust using a suitable de-rusting solution. If you put sealant on top of rust, you will create an even bigger problem later on.

As said, it's best to de-rust first to see whether this produces shiny metal throughout. If you still end up with a rusty looking finish in places then there's probably a layer of sealant present which needs to be removed.

75
Singles / Re: C15S 1959 Oil Pump total oil loss from oil tank
« on: 03 April, 2018, 07:52:06 »
If the engine is wet sumping, it could be due to a problem with the feed NRV and/or it could be a problem with oil leaking from the oil pump before it gets to the NRV. The latter can occur around the mounting face due to distortion or a problem with the gasket. Once you've taken off the inner timing cover you can then get at the oil pump and check if it's leaking oil. In principle, with the pump removed, you can then more directly test whether the NRV is working ok and blowing through with an air line might clear any obstruction if you're lucky.


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