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Messages - AWJDThumper

Pages: 1 ... 8 9 [10] 11 12 ... 48
136
Singles / Re: Removing rubber oil pipe
« on: 12 May, 2018, 20:50:20 »
The problem with this type of mini clip is that they don't have a very big clamping range - normally only about 2mm. For these 5/16" oil pipes, I believe you need to use a 15mm mini clip, which probably means a 13-15mm clip.  It might be worth checking what you have used but it's probably ok, if a little unsightly. I personally prefer Jubilee clips which look slight neater.

137
Twins / Re: 1971 Firebird Sump Guard ?
« on: 12 May, 2018, 13:17:39 »
The one on the British Bike Bits website (83-3136) looks identical to the one in the A65 parts book. If yours looks completely different then it must be the wrong part.

138
Twins / Re: 1971 Firebird Sump Guard ?
« on: 12 May, 2018, 10:20:12 »
Sounds like a bit of a strange one. As far as I can see, the frame was the same for all models of the A65 in 1971, including the FS, and the engine lugs were definitely in the same place.  If you position the sump guard brackets on the lower engine bolt, where does the front end of the guard end up? Is the front then too high to attach to the frame via the U-bolts?

139
Singles / Re: Scavenge non-return valve
« on: 12 May, 2018, 06:18:23 »
The scavenge non-return valve simply stops the oil in the section of pipe between the oil pump and the top of the oil tank from flowing backwards into the sump - at most, this involves 0.25L of oil and probably a lot less. If the valve stops working, the worse that will happen is that this amount of oil will well in the bottom of the engine until the next time it is started. It should not cause any problems whatsoever! Note: it is the feed non-return valve that prevents wet sumping which is when most of the content of the oil tank finds its way into the bottom of the engine.

If you have a bad oil leak from the bottom of the engine, it may be due to the sump plate not sealing properly, in which case, you will need to remove it and check the sealing. Check the plate is flat and then renew the gasket and, if necessary, use a bit sealant as well. If the oil is not leaking from the sump plate then check it's not leaking from the gear box or timing covers.

140
The Star and Garter / Re: Floor covering
« on: 11 May, 2018, 09:29:11 »
The concrete sealer is intended to stabilise concrete in which quite a bit of dust is created - if the concrete is of very poor quality and is crumbling then it won't work. At various times, I have used a rotating wire brush to dislodge the worst of any loose dusty concrete or other unwanted covering before painting.

I've extended my workshop a number of times over the last 20 years. For the original floor, which was at least 50 years old, I used 'International' garage floor paint which recommended the use of a concrete sealer for bare concrete which I used. However, for all the new areas of concrete I laid, I found that using just garage floor paint without a sealer coating first was more than adequate. In particular, I found Ronseal garage floor paint very good and touch dried within a few hours and was ok to lightly walk on after 24 hours.

Painting the floor is relatively quick and cheap but may not be ideal if the floor is to take a lot of abuse. I would like to put some matting down but I'm not yet convinced the time and effort involved and the cost would be justified.


141
The Star and Garter / Re: Floor covering
« on: 11 May, 2018, 06:35:41 »
It does exactly what it says on the tin :)

142
The Star and Garter / Re: Floor covering
« on: 10 May, 2018, 19:42:00 »
The simplest way of solving the concrete dusting problem is to use Ronseal Concrete Seal which will cover about 6 sq m per L. I used something similar years ago to seal the floor before using garage paint on top. I'd like to put down some rubber matting now but this is relative expensive and I'm worried about it being easily damaged. With a painted floor, you can periodically re-paint it to cover up any bare patches that develop.

143
Twins / Re: A65 rebuild
« on: 08 May, 2018, 20:41:04 »
It's the inside diameter of the tyre bead that determines the diameter of the wheel. If your tyre bead ID is 18" diameter, the outside diameter of the bare wheel will be 19" approximately.

144
Singles / Re: B25SS Tacho Drive
« on: 08 May, 2018, 20:34:36 »
I'm not sure how much you will need to lift the front of the engine to remove the drive but to give you the maximum lift possible you will need to remove:

1. Exhaust down pipe
2. Front engine bolt
3. Lower engine bolt
4. Head steady

You will then need to loosen the rear engine bolt and, perhaps, loosen the rear engine plates as well to allow the front of the engine to be rotated upwards. I think it should clear the electrics box, otherwise this would need to be removed. The amount of lift will be determined by the available clearance above the engine. You may also need to remove the head steady bracket from the top of the head to give you more clearance and lift.

If you find you still can't remove the tacho drive then there's not much more you need to dismantle to actually take out the engine!

145
Singles / Re: Sump Plate - loose studs & sealing
« on: 07 May, 2018, 17:58:43 »
Which thread lock are you using since they come in different strengths? It's best to lock them firmly in place otherwise you run the risk of eventually wearing out the threads in the soft aluminium crankcase.

146
Singles / Re: C15 Front hub spindle
« on: 06 May, 2018, 13:28:57 »
Just measured my B40 fork/wheel dimensions (since C15 hasn't got forks fitted yet) and, after adjusting for the difference in fork spacing, the calculation is:

  offset = (118 - 68 ) / 2 - 5 = 20mm

This seems to confirm my C15 front wheel offset is about right.

147
Singles / Re: C15 Front hub spindle
« on: 06 May, 2018, 10:57:50 »
To work out the precise offset required, I would recommend trial fitting the rebuild front hub in place between the forks. If D is the inner distance between the fork legs, W is the width of the hub (68mm for a WM2), and d is the distance of the (non-brake side) end of the hub from the inside of the left fork leg, then the required offset on that side of the wheel can be calculated from:

   offset = (D-W)/2 - d

148
Singles / Re: B40 fork seal holder string seal
« on: 06 May, 2018, 10:48:11 »
Grease the string first and then wrap tightly clockwise it at lease once around the bottom of the thread. When you tighten up the seal holder, hold on to the end of the string to keep the coil of string in place as you tighten up the holder. That said, I'm not convinced it's necessary as I find it difficult to imagine oil seeping all the way down the thread and then out the bottom.

149
Singles / Re: C15 rear mudguard fixings
« on: 06 May, 2018, 00:05:07 »
The brackets on the back of the sub-frame seem to go missing quite often. The Bantam I'm presently restoring has the brackets missing and someone used a similar bracket to that shown to attach the rear mudguard. In my case, I will simply repair the original brackets with a bit of welding which will give a more rigid mounting to the rear mudguard.

150
Singles / Re: Removing rubber oil pipe
« on: 06 May, 2018, 00:01:45 »
I always use Jubilee clips but you have to use the correct size for the rubber pipe. I've even used them on a smaller diameter pipe than on the C15 without any problems.

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