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Messages - AWJDThumper

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 48
1
Singles / Re: Condenser Missing?
« on: 23 June, 2018, 17:36:21 »
This is the type you require but try contacting one of the UK suppliers to see if they have one (Feked, Dragonfly, Burton Bike Bits, etc):

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NOS-Lucas-421327-Condenser-1960-1962-Triumph-w-Lucas-15D1-Distributor/322873274942?hash=item4b2cbf323e:g:lUcAAOSwA~VaBL1N

2
Singles / Re: Oil leak
« on: 23 June, 2018, 16:47:55 »
Once you've got the clutch and cover plate off, you can pop out the seal and slide it on to the clutch shaft to see whether it's a snug fit or not. If the gearbox output pinion bush is badly worn and leaking oil you will be able to check this via excessive sideways movement of the clutch shaft in this bearing. To check the gearbox seal, you will need to remove the sprocket. Normally, it will be pitting of the sprocket journal under the seal that is the cause of this seal leaking.

3
Singles / Re: Condenser Missing?
« on: 23 June, 2018, 16:31:07 »
Yes - the condenser should be bolted on to the threaded pillar at the top and connected to the input terminal on the left. The condenser stops all the energy stored in the coil arcing across the points when they open. Without it, most of the energy is lost in this way rather than generating a high voltage which discharges across the spark plug gap.

4
Singles / Re: Oil leak
« on: 23 June, 2018, 13:22:54 »
In the case of either of the two seals, the oil levels should be below the level of the seals and therefore it would only be oil splashed upwards by the moving engine parts that finds itself near the seals. Unfortunately, the gearbox seal has more work to do and is more likely to have failed.

That said, the rotating gearbox sprocket and chain is in the way of gearbox oil getting to the back of the primary chaincase. However, the worst case scenario is that the gearbox oil is leaking out between the clutch shaft (gearbox mainshaft) and the bush in the output pinion on which the gearbox sprocket is mounted. This leak would be effectively next to the back of the clutch seal. Therefore, what you see on the back of the chaincase could be still either engine oil or gearbox oil.

Until you take off the clutch and the cover plate behind it, you won't really be able to tell where the problem actually lies. It might even be the cover plate leaking.


5
Singles / Re: Oil leak
« on: 23 June, 2018, 09:59:05 »
I wouldn't expect it to loose that much oil from the clutch and sprocket seals unless they have failed completely, especially the latter. Given that you were going to put EP90 oil in the gearbox, can you tell whether it is a cup full of engine oil or gearbox oil that is leaking out from its viscosity?

It's not a difficult job to get at the seals. You need the correct size of Allen key to take the primary cover off and the correct size sockets to undo the LH crankshaft nut, the clutch centre nut and the gearbox sprocket nut. You will also need a clutch centre extractor tool and a clutch locking plate. Unfortunately, BSA designed their unit engines so that changing the gearbox sprocket was a tedious job which is essentially what you will effectively be doing.

6
Singles / Re: Oil leak
« on: 23 June, 2018, 08:25:51 »
I would see if you can live with the leak for the time being provided the oil doesn't get on to the chain and start to coat the back tyre. A few drips of oil on the floor after a ride isn't a big issue and, if it's from the gearbox or chaincase, you're not going not going to be loosing that much oil.

In the longer term, if the problem is a failing oil seal and the engine hasn't been looked at for a long time, it might be due for a complete overhaul.

7
Singles / Re: Oil leak
« on: 22 June, 2018, 19:23:32 »
Unfortunately, it's difficult to tell whether its chaincase oil leaking past the mainshaft seal behind the clutch or gearbox oil leaking past the seal on the gearbox sprocket. Either way, to solve it might require the clutch to be removed together with the inner cover plate and gearbox sprocket to get at both seals and to inspect for a problem.

8
Singles / Re: Oil leak
« on: 22 June, 2018, 17:46:56 »
It might also be worth checking if you've got a rear chain oiler fitted to the rear most chaincase screw as these are designed to leak oil when the engine is running.

9
Singles / Re: Oil leak
« on: 22 June, 2018, 17:07:27 »
If the leak is coming from the bottom of the primary cover or one of the bolts or screws then it probably won't make a lot of difference to the amount of leaking on whether the engine is running or is switched off. However, if the leak is coming from the seal behind the clutch then you will only experience this leak with the engine running because it requires the clutch to drag the oil up and over where the seal is..

10
I hadn't heard of the ERS before which needs a bit more researching. I would be a little surprised if BSA carried out this work themselves - it's difficult to see how this might have been fitted into a large production line manufacturing facility at the Small Heath site. Instead, the service would probably have been contracted out to a separate engineering firm who provided the re-conditioning service. I'm sure they were all re-conditioned rather than new engines and there was sufficient scrapped bikes around at the time to provide the donor engines.  I've never seen an ERS numbered engine before and suspect they are extremely rare nowadays.

12
Lightweights / Re: Dandy spares
« on: 22 June, 2018, 06:34:23 »
The only problem with Dandy spares that come up on eBay in particular, is that people seem to feel they can ask silly prices for some items - rare means expensive to them. I have seen the plain triangular seats go for at least 150 in the past and even rotting silencers offered for similar prices. With Dandy's, I would always recommend starting with a complete bike otherwise you can end up paying as much for the missing bits as for the original bike. It sometimes makes sense to buy a complete donor bike in poor condition if it has the parts on that you need as you can always sell off the bits you don't need.


13
Singles / Re: '72 B50SS Oil Filter Query
« on: 22 June, 2018, 06:15:13 »
The B25 set up is shown and hangs down from the rear engine plates. I'll double check on my B25/B50's later but I don't think there is any reason why this type of filter, or something similar, can't be fitted to your B50 in a similar way. The reason it wasn't fitted is that the B50 has a roller bearing big end rather than the plain bearing on the B25.


15
Singles / Re: C15 misfire
« on: 21 June, 2018, 16:21:56 »
Unfortunately, these types of misfire can be hard to sort out. It sounds as though you have changed everything on the electrical side and so that tends to now rule out that as the source. What is the actual state of the engine, especially the valves and piston/bore. If these are all in good condition then it might be worth substituting the carb to rule this out.

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