Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - AWJDThumper

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 41
1
Singles / Re: C15 Wheel Offset
« on: 20 May, 2018, 22:27:29 »
Adrian. I rebuilt a pair of 17" C15 wheels a few months ago and posted what the front wheel offset was a couple of weeks ago. From memory, the front LH wheel offset was 20mm measured from the LH end of the hub.  The link below should take you to my posting otherwise simply search for '20mm'. The back wheel is presently on the bike but I will see if I can measure the offset for you tomorrow.

https://www.bsaownersclub.co.uk/bsaoc_forum/index.php?topic=3171.msg15387#msg15387

2
Singles / Re: Primary chaincase oil level
« on: 20 May, 2018, 09:17:23 »
If memory serves me correctly, there is simply a hole drilled vertically down into the top of the level screw hole inside the primary cover. If the oil level is too high, oil simply seeps down through this vertical hole into the level screw hole to the outside of the cover. Using a wire to try to blindly poke through this hole might be a bit difficult. Short of taking the cover off, I might be tempted to take out the level screw and blow air into the hole from a foot pump or high pressure air gun in the hope of clearing any blockage in the small drain hole. However, there's no guarantee that the drain hole is actually there.

3
Singles / Re: Primary chaincase oil level
« on: 19 May, 2018, 14:17:03 »
In principle, it should be possible to poke a suitably bent piece of wire through the roof of the hole for the level screw in the primary cover, assuming the hole is actually there ::)

4
Singles / Re: Primary chaincase oil level
« on: 19 May, 2018, 08:15:10 »
If you've put 1/4 pint then there's nothing to worry about. However, are you removing the correct screw that acts as the level screw? If so, it's possible the oil hole to the screw is blocked.

5
Singles / Re: C15S 1959 Oil Pump total oil loss from oil tank
« on: 18 May, 2018, 09:13:08 »
What happens with most singles is that the engine is stopped from spinning after the ignition is switched off by the compression stroke - that is, it doesn't have the momentum to carry it past TDC on the compression stroke. At that point, the engine can bounce back and rotate backwards. In principle, if the kickstarter is depressed at that point, the backwards rotating engine could cause the lever to rotate upwards. Not sure if that was happening in your case but, if it was, it is probably perfectly normal and nothing to worry about (unless it hits the exhaust system!)

6
Twins / Re: '71 A65L valve timing
« on: 17 May, 2018, 19:44:48 »
Is this engine mounted in the frame or still on the bench? It sounds as though you need some help in measuring the valve timing. Where are you based?

7
Singles / Re: Carb - gaskets/sealing
« on: 17 May, 2018, 19:28:30 »
I normally use 400 grade emery and it doesn't normally take much to rub the flange flat but check with steel rule. Paper gaskets either side of the spacer will be sufficient to seal the interfaces.

8
Singles / Re: Primary chaincase oil
« on: 17 May, 2018, 11:44:43 »
The first two oil are fine since they are JASO MA rated and suitable for wet clutches. The third is a mineral oil but may be a bit viscous for the chaincase.

9
Singles / Re: New to me 48' B31, well almost
« on: 17 May, 2018, 07:12:59 »
I wish we could buy a B31 in that condition for the equivalent of $2200 in the UK>:(

10
Singles / Re: C15S 1959 Oil Pump total oil loss from oil tank
« on: 17 May, 2018, 07:09:58 »
Presumably, you are going to refit the rotor to set it to at most 33.5 degrees rather than the 35.5 deg wrongly quoted in the Electrexworld fitting instructions? I would be tempted to set it to 31.5 deg to compensate for modern fuels which would mean a 4 deg change on what you've presently got which might make the difference.

11
Singles / Re: Primary chaincase oil
« on: 16 May, 2018, 20:08:21 »
The original spec for the B40 was SAE 30/40 (W/S) for the engine and SAE 20 for chaincase and forks. Using a thicker engine oil for the chaincase might increase the tendency of the clutch to slip but I don't think there's much in it.

12
Singles / Re: Primary chaincase oil
« on: 16 May, 2018, 14:33:51 »
It is specified as being the same as the fork oil but slightly thinner than engine oil. 10W30 would be ok but make sure it's suitable for a wet clutch engine and doesn't contain friction modifiers (moly). In more modern parlance, a JASO MA oil is ideal. A lot of people swear by ATF in the chaincase since it's also designed for wet clutches.

13
Singles / Re: C15S 1959 Oil Pump total oil loss from oil tank
« on: 16 May, 2018, 08:46:31 »
It takes a lot of effort to make a C15 kick back and it won't be the odd couple of degrees of advance that is causing this. I would double check the way you have set up the Electrexworld - are you sure the engine was accurately positioned at TDC before you tightened up the rotor? In terms of the missing air filter, it won't make much difference to starting the engine but it would be sensible to increase the main jet by 10 to compensate. 

14
Singles / Re: Gold Star engine for sale?
« on: 16 May, 2018, 08:34:41 »
I contacted the chap who is selling the 2nd Goldstar engine and he seems legit. Unfortunately, he's based near Inverness and so I won't be taking this any further :(

15
Twins / Re: A65 rebuild
« on: 16 May, 2018, 07:21:25 »
I always polish the ally brake plates on my BSA's and, generally, this produces very good results provided they're not damaged or too badly pitted. However, you need a good polishing wheel setup and need the skill to use progressively finer sanding paper to achieve this. If not, it's probably best to leave it to a professional polisher to get the work done.

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 41