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Messages - AWJDThumper

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 51
1
Singles / Re: Gasket removal
« on: 02 July, 2018, 19:25:54 »
I would personally use a Standley blade to get underneath it and carefully ease as much of it away from the cover as possible. I'd then use a rotary wire brush to remove any remaining gasket.

2
Singles / Re: Clutch plate wear
« on: 02 July, 2018, 19:22:37 »
I'm sure the main issue is not allowing the friction material to get to a point where you then run the risk before the next major service of them wearing down to the metal and the clutch function failing (ie slipping excessively). You've got just over 1mm of friction material left and that should last many thousands of miles. It doesn't to be worthwhile replacing them with new plates with the same amount of wear left!

3
Singles / Re: B25 Wiring
« on: 02 July, 2018, 16:37:18 »
It's surprising the number of times the ammeter connections cause the problem. Hope the problem is now solved.

4
Singles / Re: Oil leak
« on: 02 July, 2018, 16:36:31 »
Phil. You've done most of the hard work by taking the clutch off. Removing the gearbox sprocket is relatively easy. It's best to use a socket but it can be taken off with a large adjustable wrench if you have one. With everything taken apart and both seals remove, it should then be possible to work out what was leaking.

5
Singles / Re: B25 Wiring
« on: 02 July, 2018, 08:26:24 »
Can you post a picture of the diagram? Is it a problem with the charging of the battery or a problem with the ignition side of things?

6
Singles / Re: Oil leak
« on: 02 July, 2018, 08:10:50 »
Exactly right. The felt washer is about 1/4 thick and needs to be greased before use.

However, can you remind me whether the clutch seal bears on the clutch shaft or the sleeve bush projecting from the gearbox? In other words, does the seal fit tightly around the shaft or the bush?

If the former then one possible source of the leak is between the bush and the shaft. For this to happen the bush would need to be very worn, in which case, there should be a lot of freeplay between shaft and bush which is worth checking.

After you have removed the sprocket, check for pitting on the journal under where the gearbox seal touches. If there is pitting, you'll need to replace the sprocket and the seal. Also check the condition of the sprocket teeth for excessive wear.

7
Singles / Re: Oil leak
« on: 01 July, 2018, 19:08:55 »
There should be a greased felt washer on the bush that projects to the left of the gearbox sprocket - it's there to keep muck off the clutch seal. The gearbox seal bears on the gearbox sprocket journal on the RHS of the sprocket. Unfortunately, this doesn't have the benefit of a greased felt washer protecting it and the journal can pit under the seal causing the leak. It's always best to replace seals especially after you've gone to the trouble of dismantling the engine to get at them.

8
Singles / Re: Oil leak
« on: 01 July, 2018, 13:25:36 »
It's a plain hole in the cover plate and so can be pushed out either way. However, it's best to push it out towards where the clutch would be to avoid damaging the sealing lip.

9
Singles / Re: Condenser Missing?
« on: 01 July, 2018, 13:23:44 »
In a brand new bike it doesn't matter where the capacitor is. The potential problem is with older bikes and corroded earth contacts and degraded earth return paths. The points serve two purposes in a coil ignition system. When they open, they interrupt the current though the primary coil which then generates the HT voltage across the spark plug gap. However, when the points close they also perform the important task of shorting out the capacitor and reducing its stored charge to zero. With the capacitor close to the points, this will always happen. However, if the capacitor is mounted near the coil, there is a risk of a corroded earth connection between the capacitor and the points housing and this may result in the capacitor not being properly shorted out and discharged when the points close. If this happens, the quality of the HT spark may degrade and more arcing across the points may occur. It would be more of a problem with a 6V system rather than a 12V system.

10
Singles / Re: Oil leak
« on: 01 July, 2018, 12:49:09 »
You should be able to push it out using finger pressure. If not use a socket from the gearbox sprocket size since the delicate sealing lip is on the chaincase side.

ps. appalling hot weather and clear blue skies in the Lake District :)

11
Singles / Re: Gasket removal
« on: 01 July, 2018, 12:43:01 »
If it's not damaged, smear it with gasket goo and re-use.

How's the diagnosis of the leak problem coming along - any obvious problem with the clutch seal?

12
The Star and Garter / Re: More registration ! !
« on: 01 July, 2018, 07:53:44 »
Problem is that the engine needs a number before your can register the bike, although it probably doesn't matter what the precise number is.

13
Singles / Re: Clutch plate wear
« on: 01 July, 2018, 07:51:19 »
It's the friction material that projects beyond the metal backing plate that's important and the usable friction material in the new plates looks to be similar to your worn out old plates and therefore provides no advantage. It will be interesting to hear what Dragonfly have to say.

14
Singles / Re: Clutch plate wear
« on: 30 June, 2018, 17:38:52 »
This means the old worn out friction material is 0.052" thick and the new material is about 0.056". If someone has a new new friction plate to hand, it would be interesting to know what thickness that is.

15
Singles / Re: Clutch plate wear
« on: 30 June, 2018, 15:47:32 »
Phil. Can you measure the thickness of the metal plates on which the friction material is bonded to work out the thickness of the actual friction material. I'm assuming the thickness of the friction material is much greater on the new plates than the old ones and it is the thickness of the metal plate that is the problem. Clearly, the new plates of not usuable unless they are designed to be used as a set of 5 plates in the clutch rather than the 4 you've presently got.

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