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Messages - AWJDThumper

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 41
1
Twins / Re: A10 hub ?
« on: 21 May, 2018, 18:03:25 »
I think the picture shows your hub. As can be seen, both bearings are retained on the inside by a shoulder on either side of the hub tunnel, and on the outside by locking rings. The push through spindle has a shoulder on it which tightens the bearing and brake plate against the fork leg when the spindle is tightened.

2
Singles / Re: C15 Wheel Offset
« on: 21 May, 2018, 17:33:48 »
It didn't want to remove the back wheel from my C15 but managed to measure the LH offset relative to the LH side of the full width hub (I managed to get a narrow straight edge between the hub and the chain wheel. The measured offset was 4mm which corresponds to the offset of the original wheel before the rebuild. With this offset, the tyre and rim appear to be centred relative the swinging arm bushes confirming it should be correct.

3
Singles / Re: B40T swinging arm bushes...
« on: 21 May, 2018, 17:27:04 »
They can be a pig to shift even with an otherwise bare frame. I found that with a 12T hydraulic press it can be very difficult to move the spindle even after a lot of heat has been applied. With the last one I did I found the most effective way of removing the spindle was with a suitable large drift and a club hammer - the impulsive force generated is surprisingly greater than the 12T generated by my press. I'm about to remove a spindle from a Bantam and will let you know how I get on. Once you've overcome the initial stiction, its then easier to get it moving.

4
Singles / Re: C15 Wheel Offset
« on: 20 May, 2018, 22:27:29 »
Adrian. I rebuilt a pair of 17" C15 wheels a few months ago and posted what the front wheel offset was a couple of weeks ago. From memory, the front LH wheel offset was 20mm measured from the LH end of the hub.  The link below should take you to my posting otherwise simply search for '20mm'. The back wheel is presently on the bike but I will see if I can measure the offset for you tomorrow.

https://www.bsaownersclub.co.uk/bsaoc_forum/index.php?topic=3171.msg15387#msg15387

5
Singles / Re: Primary chaincase oil level
« on: 20 May, 2018, 09:17:23 »
If memory serves me correctly, there is simply a hole drilled vertically down into the top of the level screw hole inside the primary cover. If the oil level is too high, oil simply seeps down through this vertical hole into the level screw hole to the outside of the cover. Using a wire to try to blindly poke through this hole might be a bit difficult. Short of taking the cover off, I might be tempted to take out the level screw and blow air into the hole from a foot pump or high pressure air gun in the hope of clearing any blockage in the small drain hole. However, there's no guarantee that the drain hole is actually there.

6
Singles / Re: Primary chaincase oil level
« on: 19 May, 2018, 14:17:03 »
In principle, it should be possible to poke a suitably bent piece of wire through the roof of the hole for the level screw in the primary cover, assuming the hole is actually there ::)

7
Singles / Re: Primary chaincase oil level
« on: 19 May, 2018, 08:15:10 »
If you've put 1/4 pint then there's nothing to worry about. However, are you removing the correct screw that acts as the level screw? If so, it's possible the oil hole to the screw is blocked.

8
Singles / Re: C15S 1959 Oil Pump total oil loss from oil tank
« on: 18 May, 2018, 09:13:08 »
What happens with most singles is that the engine is stopped from spinning after the ignition is switched off by the compression stroke - that is, it doesn't have the momentum to carry it past TDC on the compression stroke. At that point, the engine can bounce back and rotate backwards. In principle, if the kickstarter is depressed at that point, the backwards rotating engine could cause the lever to rotate upwards. Not sure if that was happening in your case but, if it was, it is probably perfectly normal and nothing to worry about (unless it hits the exhaust system!)

9
Twins / Re: '71 A65L valve timing
« on: 17 May, 2018, 19:44:48 »
Is this engine mounted in the frame or still on the bench? It sounds as though you need some help in measuring the valve timing. Where are you based?

10
Singles / Re: Carb - gaskets/sealing
« on: 17 May, 2018, 19:28:30 »
I normally use 400 grade emery and it doesn't normally take much to rub the flange flat but check with steel rule. Paper gaskets either side of the spacer will be sufficient to seal the interfaces.

11
Singles / Re: Primary chaincase oil
« on: 17 May, 2018, 11:44:43 »
The first two oil are fine since they are JASO MA rated and suitable for wet clutches. The third is a mineral oil but may be a bit viscous for the chaincase.

12
Singles / Re: New to me 48' B31, well almost
« on: 17 May, 2018, 07:12:59 »
I wish we could buy a B31 in that condition for the equivalent of $2200 in the UK>:(

13
Singles / Re: C15S 1959 Oil Pump total oil loss from oil tank
« on: 17 May, 2018, 07:09:58 »
Presumably, you are going to refit the rotor to set it to at most 33.5 degrees rather than the 35.5 deg wrongly quoted in the Electrexworld fitting instructions? I would be tempted to set it to 31.5 deg to compensate for modern fuels which would mean a 4 deg change on what you've presently got which might make the difference.

14
Singles / Re: Primary chaincase oil
« on: 16 May, 2018, 20:08:21 »
The original spec for the B40 was SAE 30/40 (W/S) for the engine and SAE 20 for chaincase and forks. Using a thicker engine oil for the chaincase might increase the tendency of the clutch to slip but I don't think there's much in it.

15
Singles / Re: Primary chaincase oil
« on: 16 May, 2018, 14:33:51 »
It is specified as being the same as the fork oil but slightly thinner than engine oil. 10W30 would be ok but make sure it's suitable for a wet clutch engine and doesn't contain friction modifiers (moly). In more modern parlance, a JASO MA oil is ideal. A lot of people swear by ATF in the chaincase since it's also designed for wet clutches.

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