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Messages - MALCOLM.JOHNSON

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1
Singles / Re: magdyno base
« on: 23 March, 2018, 21:03:05 »
As Andy says your platform looks quite good and I see no reason why your standard round dowels should not be fine. If you have a good eye then you should be able to get the shaft nice and concentric. Do check there is a small amount of backlash in the mesh of the gears when fully assembled. If your magneto base is anywhere near as good as the platform, you should have no problems at all. Good luck,  Malcolm.

2
Singles / Re: magdyno base
« on: 23 March, 2018, 11:18:31 »
I am not sure what you mean by "half moon ". I have not come across that shape on Lucas Magdyno bases before. Your problem is obviously linked to your previous post regarding the oil seal. Can you tell us what you have found that requires something different to the round locating pegs normally fitted? Have the holes or platform faces worn excessively? Are round pegs there? Some more information is needed in order to advise you. Can you post a picture showing the problem? 

3
Singles / Re: Magdyno timing case oil seal
« on: 19 March, 2018, 12:39:13 »
If the seal is a good fit on the magneto shaft, but a loose fit in the recess, would suggest a seal that is slightly undersize. I cannot see how the recess could wear. I would not let it worry me too much, but fit the magneto properly fastened down and offer the seal in place and see if it all looks concentric - magneto bases/crankcase platforms can wear badly if run for prolonged with the clamp loose. Rectify with appropriate shims locating pegs etc. etc. and when ok the seal can be glued in place. I would go for silicone if there is an appreciable clearance or Loctite as suggested if minimal.

4
The Star and Garter / Re: Bike recovery
« on: 16 March, 2018, 21:08:15 »
I was with the RAC for at least 20 years and hardly used them except when a chain snapped on a Suzuki I had many years ago - it was good quick service.....until last year when I needed them twice! Once on a bike breakdown and once in the car. On both occasions it was over 25 minutes before anyone even answered the phone at the RAC and on the bike occasion, my mobile battery ran out while the phone was ringing and I had to walk to the nearest property to borrow a landline call. The actual pick up service was good ( usually contracted out), but it is no fun waiting all that time to get connected. The RAC got kicked into touch at the next renewal. We shall see how my new provider performs, but what is certain, whoever we use we do need to be able to contact them.... so first we need a fully charged mobile....and secondly a decent signal! 

5
Singles / Re: B31 valve lifter
« on: 04 March, 2018, 20:47:37 »
Quoting from the B31 owners manual...."the lever on the outside of the rocker box, should have appreciable free movement before it starts to open the valve.........Adjustment is normally carried out by means of the cable adjuster on the rocker box cover, but the actuating arm can be removed and reset to any position on its serrated shaft".

Now if my memory serves me correct it is a fine spline of about 5/16 inch dia. and should prove enough adjustment. Your cable adjuster screws into the rocker cover and is the anchor end for your cable outer. The lever will come off by careful levering after removing the nut. If the problem cannot be solved by adjustment, I think the cable may be incorrect. Remember the free movement quoted during your adjustments.

6
Twins / Re: Recommend N Yorks
« on: 01 March, 2018, 20:01:37 »
Hi Peter, This is not an offer to do the work for you, but I probably live less than 10 minutes from you and have owned two A10`s and an A7, still have a Rocket and the plunger A7. I know my way round these bikes and only too pleased to offer guidance and some assistance, if you fancy tackling some the work yourself. I have most of the special tools required if needed. Make contact with me using PM service on this forum. Not crawling under bikes in this weather though!

7
Twins / Re: Oil Pressure gauge
« on: 14 February, 2018, 20:05:18 »
Seem to have missed one...try again.

8
Twins / Re: Oil Pressure gauge
« on: 14 February, 2018, 20:03:01 »
I once fitted an oil pressure gauge to a B25, which was easy as there is a ready made 1/8BSP port ready to tap into. It was very reassuring to have in place. I was hoping to fit one on my latest twins, but chickened out for exactly the reason Julian made. It is possible and there is space, but I would want bare crankcases to work on, to drill and tap a port. I believe the Triumph PRV with pressure sensitive button, do interchange with the BSA ones, as I did make enquiries with SRM on this, if all you need is an indication of "some" pressure.

As for the filter, I include pictures of my fitment to my pre-unit A10 and my latest project which is a plunger A7. The latter was the more difficult location, between the frame and rear mudguard, being the only suitable location. Hopefully my effort to learn how to re-size pictures for the forum works.

9
The Star and Garter / Re: dvla new commitie
« on: 20 January, 2018, 21:42:21 »
Received my age related registration this morning. It took well over a month to complete and included a further inspection for the DVLA, by some contractor for the DVLA. This process is getting harder each and every time I undertake it. I think the next project had better come to me with documents!

10
The Star and Garter / Re: dvla new commitie
« on: 05 January, 2018, 20:51:31 »
Received notification today from the DVLA that they wish to inspect my machine, which is apparently done by "SGS", whoever they are. No mention of date of manufacture or details on the dating certificate, so I can only presume that part of it is ok? I have booked the inspection for next Tuesday. We will see what happens next?

11
The Star and Garter / Re: dvla new commitie
« on: 24 December, 2017, 21:22:59 »
Date of manufacture? very worrying, as I type, I have an age related application with the DVLA. The frame has a despatch date of 3rd July 1952 and since the engine is the original engine, must obviously also been despatched on the same day too. Crank cases are matched, but stamped on the drive side case is the date 6-3-52 and on the timing side case is 8-2-52. Whether this indicates casting or machining dates I do not know, but how can an accurate date of manufacture be ascertained. Clearly mine took several months to come together!

12
Singles / Re: shimming brake shoes
« on: 21 December, 2017, 19:29:23 »
Be careful. The brake cams on BSA`s will impart a rubbing action, direct on your new "shims" and wear or displace very quickly if using tin cans as your shim source. If it jams it could pitch you off or at least damage the drum further.  The other thing that may be possible is to reverse the lever on its shaft as they usually are made offset to the square and may position your lever at a more advantageous angle. Alternatively, get some 5mm stainless sheet and custom make your own lever - if you have access to a vice, drill, hacksaw and square file - or if your lever has a square hole, make it an "8 pointer". Much easier than you might imagine. 

13
Pre War / Re: 1932 Blue Star
« on: 14 December, 2017, 17:06:02 »
I could not be totally sure, but I think the pedal was always on the left in 1932, for no other reason than the rear brake drum is on the RHS and drive sprocket on the LHS - so the fitment of the wheel cannot be reversed. My 32 BS has a crossover shaft with squared ends and threaded after for nuts to hold the brake pedal on the LHS and the actuating arm on the RHS. A totally different brake pedal and lever combined would be needed for RHS fitment and a plain collar for the LHS to hold it all in place. My BS has linked front and rear brakes when using the brake pedal, via a twin pull cable device, mounted on the forks. I have plenty of pictures, but would need to learn how to downsize them for the forum. Otherwise PM me and I can e-mail full size pictures direct. I have just looked at the parts diagrams ( I think downloadable from BSAOC or VMCC library) and only LHS brake pedal is shown? Hope this helps.

14
Pre War / Re: 1932 Blue star HELP!
« on: 30 November, 2017, 21:00:09 »
I have sent you a PM. Look in your messages. Malcolm.

15
Pre War / Re: 1932 Blue star HELP!
« on: 30 November, 2017, 17:48:52 »
Measuring those is easier said than done. The ones at the rear of the gearbox plates were easy to measure, as I did originally make a pair slightly different to assist with drive chain alignment when I was commissioning the bike and the original ones I saved are 20mm (os) and 44mm (ns) - I changed to something like 22mm and 42mm to offset the rear of the gearbox towards the ns slightly. I would temporarily make the rear spacers to near original sizes given out of suitable tubing, which should give you enough of a guide to assemble the frame parts and work on chain and wheel alignments. Without lying the bike right over it is very difficult for me to measure the engine ones. I would need the bike outside and one of my pals here to hold the bike. When you come to make the spacers proper, they are waisted, not a plain thick walled tube. Have fun!   

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