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Messages - ANDY HIGHAM

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Singles / Re: 1946 B31 Crankcase breather
« on: 22 June, 2018, 14:01:01 »
I used the timing cover tapping and made a fitting with a stand pipe on the inside. As you do not have this cover I would try putting a fitting in the tappet inspection cover. No permanent modification to the engine

Singles / Re: 1946 B31 Crankcase breather
« on: 22 June, 2018, 13:53:02 »

Singles / Re: 1946 B31 Crankcase breather
« on: 22 June, 2018, 13:42:25 »
The later flapper valve breather is better but way from perfect. On my B31 I have fitted the reed valve breather from a Yamaha XS650

Singles / Re: C15 misfire
« on: 21 June, 2018, 10:49:32 »
90% of all ignition problems are carb related

Singles / Re: Wheel bearings
« on: 20 June, 2018, 14:18:45 »
Not wishing to go round in circles but...
A parts dealer is going to buy bearings from a bearing supplier or wholesaler like Wassell who will buy from a bearing supplier.
If you buy the bearings from the supplier yourself, you can specify the manufacturer, the fit (std or C3) and the type of seals (none, rubber or metal)
If you buy from a parts dealer you do not know what you will get it could be a good make or something made in a Chinese sweat shop from recycled chopsticks

Singles / Re: Wheel bearings
« on: 20 June, 2018, 12:04:23 »
What guarantee have you that a dealer will supply superior products?
If I order from Simply Bearings or any other supplier I can specify the manufacture of the bearing. If the bearing is ordered from a spares dealer, the bearing will be whatever the dealer buys in, it could be anything

There is no way that a dealer will have bearings made with "special" BSA wheel bearing grease

Singles / Re: Wheel bearings
« on: 20 June, 2018, 10:11:56 »
Don't go to a motorcycle spares shop with that part number
Instead go to an engineering suppliers or bearing specialist and order 6204 2RS. These will have rubber seals to keep the grease in and the muck out

Twins / Re: A 65 Rebores and re-sleeves
« on: 18 June, 2018, 13:53:31 »
Be aware that to sleeve a barrel will require boring it to around 6mm over size. Some BSA barrels do not have a lot of "meat" in the area above the base flange and have been known to part company.

Singles / Re: B31 not starting
« on: 16 June, 2018, 22:12:40 »
I have an infallible method of starting my B31
I turn the fuel on, put the choke on (Mikuni carb), turn ignition on, pull the valve lifter, press the red button, release the valve lifter then release the red button as it starts

Singles / Re: Latest photos of my B31
« on: 09 June, 2018, 21:36:30 »

20180609_152516 by Sigma Projects, on Flickr

Singles / Re: Victor Special zener diode
« on: 09 June, 2018, 20:10:28 »
A 12v zener is no use at all, it needs to be 14v. 50w is in danger of turning into smoke with a 60w alternator

Singles / Re: Latest photos of my B31
« on: 09 June, 2018, 20:07:33 »
I put the carb on with "out of the box" jetting.
It started first touch of the button and a steady idle. I have the correct needle and needle jet on order

Singles / Latest photos of my B31
« on: 09 June, 2018, 17:51:33 »

Singles / Re: Victor Special zener diode
« on: 08 June, 2018, 13:04:21 »
Save yourself the hassle. Buy a reg/rec for any bike with a permanent magnet alternator, it will usually have 5 wire, 3 x Yellow connect any two to the alternator output, Black - and  Red +

Twins / A/B series swingarm tank anti roll rubbers
« on: 08 June, 2018, 10:33:07 »
Something that has been mashing my brain for a while now.
The anti roll rubbers fitted in the frame do not touch the tank. The distance across the rubbers is 59mm, the width of the tank tunnel is 67mm which leaves a 4mm gap each side.
The "head" of the rubbers is 11mm thick. I rang another supplier, theirs are the same. Am I missing something? I don't recollect having this problem with my A10 but that was 20 years ago and I have been drunk once or twice since then. ;-)

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