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16
Twins / Re: A65 oil pressure collapse
« on: 13 April, 2018, 14:14:08 »
That's the one Julian! I had in mind it was in the 1971 or 1972 section. I did look back to the 1970 and 1969 but should have gone one further.

Anyway, I bought a new one from my local Motor Factors a couple of weeks ago and I needed to go through his Inermotor catalogue to select the correct one. Make sure it has a small hexagon portion of the body similar to the one illustrated as there are some where the hex is at the outer portion and they wont clear the outside of the crankcase.
Chris

17
Twins / Re: engine oil
« on: 12 April, 2018, 16:36:59 »
As per my earlier post on Oil Pressure. I use straight grade 50 without problems. As long as there is plenty of oil in the tank and its clean then the engine will be fine.

18
Twins / Re: A65 oil pressure collapse
« on: 12 April, 2018, 16:33:02 »
Those pressures sound quite good to me. I would only call it a collapse if the oil pressure light came on all the time. As the oil warms up, it gets thinner and the pressure falls.
On my A65 OIF I had the problem for years where the light came on at tickover and sometimes took a while to go out when starting off. I thought all pressure switches were the same but they aren't! I looked up one of the service sheets in the members section (I cant find it now) and this said that the A65 should be one where it lights up when it gets below a paltry 5psi, I obtained the correct one and I use straight grade 50 oil, and the problem has gone away.
I have recently taken the head and barrels off  10,000 hard miles after the last time they came off and there is no play in the big ends and no wear on the bores. So, the oil pressure doesn't seem to be a problem on mine.
As long as the sludge trap has been cleaned out and the oil can get to the big end journals then everything should be fine!
Hope this allays any fears you may have.
Chris

19
The Star and Garter / Re: MoT and Registration class changes
« on: 12 April, 2018, 09:47:04 »
Hi A10JWO,
Re the A65, that's an interesting one! I would think that, after May 20th you get it insured and you make the change in the V5C to historic class and sign it. Take it to the Post Office and if the same internal rules apply as they do now, you should get it licensed (taxed at zero rate) and the taxation class amended to Historic vehicle there and then! This is what happened to me with my Ariel. All done at the same time. Worth a try!.
However, if this is your first crack at an OIF A65 I thoroughly recommend you get an MOT on it. I would say this to anyone who has rebuilt a model for the first time as alot of the assembly is guess work for instance where the control cables are routed can have an effect on the operation of the bike. Also, the OIF parts lists are not the most reliable. (e.g. it took me 5 years to work out the correct sequence of the handlebar mounting rubbers, spacers, cups and convex washers) So its worth getting an expert opinion.

Same goes for the Bantam, do it at the Post Office

Hope that helps
Chris


20
Twins / Re: A65 OIF Clutch Advice
« on: 09 April, 2018, 11:58:57 »
That sounded like the 'dreaded click'! They all do that sir! I have never got to the bottom of why thus happens but strongly suspect its the balls actually coming out of the dimples due to the arm travelling too far. What makes me think this is the cause is the way the resistance on the clutch lever suddenly disappears  which it will as the push rod wont be pushing any more as the balls have done their lifting. Why t clicks I don't know and they always return home safe. I get round this by leaving a a bit of tension on the inner cable at that end i.e no slack but make sure there is a good slack at the handlebar lever.  I believe this limits the amount of travel to just enough to get the balls as high up without escaping.
 Just my theory, maybe totally misguided - who knows!
Chris

21
The Star and Garter / Re: Where shall I get my exhaust system ?
« on: 07 April, 2018, 12:56:26 »
Re Feked, when I was in there recently i mentioned it to the guy behind the counter and he said they weren't aware of the difference in splay but they did have one set returned as they didn't fit properly. If you get them and they don't fit, you can always send them back.
This maybe a total red herring so I will put something in The Star asking if anyone has an OIF head on the bench to measure the angle and likewise for a pre OIF. The ports should be perpendicular to the face on the outlets so should be easy to measure. Once we know and if there is a difference I'll pass this on to all exhaust suppliers so they can take advantage, make them correct and avoid any disgruntled customers.

22
The Star and Garter / Re: MoT and Registration class changes
« on: 06 April, 2018, 15:11:30 »
First of all you are absolutely doing the right thing changing the class to historic beofre May 20th. As MOT exemption will only apply to vehicles in that taxation class.
For the Bantam, get an MOT and fill in the change to the taxation class to Historic Vehicle on the V5C, sign and date and take it to your local post office  (one where you can tax a vehicle).  They will not only send off your V5 to be changed, but will Licence it there and then.
For the B31 and C11G just do the same, but no MOT needed. You will need to fill in and sign a V112 form whilst you are there, and bingo, both will be licenced and new V5C's will wing their way to you in about 4 weeks.
Now, legally, you will need to confirm that the vehicles have not been subject to substantial change. This is where the V112 comes in. Reason is vehicles which have been subject to substantial change will not be granted Historic Class.
I did this for my Ariel NH in early March and it was easy-peasy! It is now fully licenced for the road as Historic Vehicle and is MOT exempt. So I can go for a ride on it - Well, I could if it wasn't in bits in the loft!
Good luck!
Chris

23
Twins / Re: A65 Rear Footrests.
« on: 04 April, 2018, 14:58:19 »
This looks like the one fitted to the pre OIF model which spaces out the exhaust bracket. I don't have any thick spacers like these on my OIF Thunderbolt, but I do on the Pre OIF Royal Star.
 

24
Twins / Re: A65 Rear Footrests.
« on: 03 April, 2018, 20:13:31 »
The 1971 parts list, lists (but is not shown) a washer 02-0861 which if you look on the Draganfly website it looks quite thick but is difficult to determine the ID and OD from the picture. I would give them a call and ask for the dimensions and that will probably give you an idea.
Hope this helps

25
Twins / Re: A65 Rear Footrests.
« on: 03 April, 2018, 19:38:15 »
Scratch that, Ive just seen from your posts further down its a 1971 OIF. Sorry!

26
Twins / Re: A65 Rear Footrests.
« on: 03 April, 2018, 19:36:40 »
Can you remind us what year the A65 is?

27
The Star and Garter / Re: Where shall I get my exhaust system ?
« on: 31 March, 2018, 16:05:46 »
Worthwhile checking that whoever supplies them knows that the angle of the exhaust ports on the OIF heads was splayed out further than the pre OIF heads. The mod was done during the development of the OIF models and they also modified the inlet ports (to improve gas flow possibly?). Anyway, I think some manufacturers of exhaust systems weren't aware so the result is the balance outlets on the pipes are not in line and the balance tube sits awkwardly,i.e. kinked on one of the outlet pipes.
Chris

28
Singles / Re: Stainless parts for BSA
« on: 30 March, 2018, 12:09:16 »
Paul (Beeza71). So glad you posted on here as I'd never heard of you and having an OIF Thunderbolt will find you useful I'm sure.
Ever thought of advertising in The Star?
Chris

29
Singles / Re: petrol tap - unblocking ?
« on: 30 March, 2018, 12:03:28 »
Hooger, the original taps are dead simple. You probably have a small piece of errant cork in the vertical hole so you may get away with poking a very thin piece of wire through the gauze without damaging it. Fit new corks but I've used a tip to boil them in water first and it worked for me.
Problem with buying new taps is the British made Brassform (formerly Ewarts) are very expensive at about 34 each so its worth persevering with the original if you can. The lever type are better for accessibility as Julian says and they cost about a tenner plus a 3/8-1/4 bsp bush so about half the price each which is OK if you have the room under the tank, (which you should on the B40) but on the twins its too tight so you need an elbow which makes the total cost not far away from the Brassform.
If you are buying new  lever taps, make sure they have Viton  seal as on the earlier type, the ethanol will make the rubber seal squidgy and the hole closes up rendering you back to square one.
Chris

30
Singles / Re: Carb leaking!
« on: 30 March, 2018, 11:46:47 »
Regarding the carb Leaking, I'm surprised that the banjo and the main jet joints are leaking if you used new parts. The nylon Banjo filter should take care of the banjo joint but its wise to rub the face over a small piece of wet & dry on a flat surface to remove any high spots. The Main jet cover is a taper fit in the jet body so if both surfaces are clean and 'mark' free a good tighten with the spanner will suffice. The fibre washer between the jet body and the main body should suffice but again, rub the main body joint surface on the wet & dry to get a flat & square surface.
Re the float bowl end cover, they cost 7.90 +postage plus VAT from Hitchcocks (So will probably cost about 12 by the time theyve added it all up). So best buy a new one and again flatten the edge of the floatbowl on the wet & dry to get it flat oh! and  don't over-tighten when fitting. (Dont ask me how I know this).
Good luck with it
Chris

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