hi roger,
yes youve got the idea. the shaft is hollow and the pushrod fits? the nut and bolt on the end makes it a little long and may hit the clutch cover. i would remove the ball and drill the end plate so the middle section passes snuggly through the clutch end plate. find a right size thick washer and to hold the washer in place, drill a hole in the step for a 1/4 " split pin[ touch the surface with a grinder and the drill will start easier], then cut off the excess with a saw or on the grinder if its too hard. i think i used an angle grinder on mine. so the mushroom stays with the clutch end cover. you have a adjuster for the clutch pushrod on the gearbox end and you need to size the pushrod when its fitted in the mushroom with the clutch plates and springs fitted. i cut my pushrod in half and used a 1/4 ball bearing in between.
i ve made it sound a lot of work but its not if you have a bench or angle grinder and a drill which i m sure you have.

figures given  shows its charging [ possibly a little high] but the original fault was lights on=flat battery. it could have been the old battery causing the problem. the way forward is simple. ride with your lights on during the day and see if the faults gone.

hello drummie,
the quick way i would check your system is with a multimeter on 20volts range dc across the 12.5 volt battery.
14 volts on tickover means its charging. 16 volts overcharging.
12 .5 volts and above at tickover with lights on fairly normal with an old alternator.
play around with lights on / off and if the volts show discharge means short circuit. wire touching frame?
as julian says , zeners can short circuit . cause poor charge or overcharge and boil batterys

my iron head a10 would not run with an aircleaner or standard settings. it must be the fuel as ive tried maggie and electronic ign. i now run a mesh bellmouth ,20 pilot and needle in lowest position on a monobloc. i also solder- filled the needle to float wear and the float height is correct. it starts first kick without any choke, which is wrong , but also runs quite hot and ticks over very well. good luck.

i would also add a loose oil pump or blockage in the return flow or p r valve not seating to that list, too much oil in the sump. but the favorite is a worn out cork breather gasket.
what does the oil return in the oil tank look like when the engine expels oil from the breather?

is the gearing standard?
are both exhaust pipes as hot as each other and one cylinder not dropping out?
is the carb needle in the right possition as per manual?
and a thousand other possibilites.

many moons ago i got stuck in traffic on the a1 on my trident t160 during a rainstorm. with electronic ignition and headlights and indicators it took about 3,000 rpm and plenty of popping and banging to get through that traffic. never again.  i decided to fit the mistral 3 phase. i converted to negative earth battery connection, used a suzy gs750 wiring loom , switch gear and a kawa gs500 regulator. i know i upset the purists but brought the bike up to modern standards for heavy traffic. the only problem is working out ways to mount a larger battery and regulator. i also prefer the jap bullets to lucas ones .
however if you keep the points system i don t think 3 phase would be necessary and points can be very reliable when well maintained. the boyer requires a lot more juice and i dont think the older alternator is adequate with lights and indicators and traffic.

the engine also runs a lot better without that standard air filter altogether. i gave up with the over rich mixture, fitted a guaze bellmouth and hey -ho, away we go.