hi dave,
i read your clutch is slipping with extra load. your better off with a REM COMMANDO centre converted to fit the tri bsa mainshaft and use a COMMANDO diaphram clutch.

it could be too much oil in the sump and partially blocked oil return or PRV

take off the rear wheel lay horizontal, spin the wheel and operate the rear brake via the lever.
if it works well ite only cable slack causing issues.
check all spacers and spindle correct for locking up rear wheel when tight

MCS online were selling the headstock wrap for  about  £40
from there a tube goes forward to a horizontal tube that attaches to both fairing sides. then mount a pair of frame lugs on down tubes.

hi dave,
i m terrible at remembering details.
but fitted the ally end plate. result better but still dragged.
7 plate conversion gives more lift as friction plates are thinner and distance required to separate plates less.they renmove the drag.cost was about £100.
i bought an original bsa clutch cable as well thinking my drag problems were the result of a stiff cable  and was seriously thinking of ditching the 3 ball mech.

i used kawasaki 500s clutch springs on one bsa once and remember  they were perfect. however not cheap even second hand.

apparently its a dunstall mod

from my poor memory i believe that is what the 7 friction plate conversion starts with.

hi dave , just seen this post.
i have a 4 spring clutch and went over to the 7 plate conversion. it really does make it a better clutch.

i think the previous owner meant that the tappets sound louder with the larger gaps. yes the tappets are louder but performance is better with a 347.

i have bought an led pilot and headlight bulb off the internet and now run with the herd at night time.
better to be seen and no more charging issue with juicy, aftermarket  electronic ignition.

£350 for a virtually complete a10 plunger is everyones dream come true.
did you try to knock £50 of the asking price?

i think kidderminster motorcycles could supply most of that list.
i may have a tripod headlamp lens but not sure why its special to super rockets

all good suggestions which i will try. i do think the standard yoke clamp arrangement is not up to the job so making a brace seems the way to go.i wonder if the top yoke using a taper system is the main culprit.
i upgraded my 8" std f,w,h, brake by reversing the brake arm and making a bracket for the brake stop in another position. as per bsa racers and it works really well.

i have uprated my front brake which now stops really well but the yokes dont seem to handle the forces and slowly twist over time.
anyone experience similar and find a solution?