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Twins / Fitment of new Chain Swing arm A10 1961
« on: 15 June, 2020, 14:54:28 »
I am so far into the total rebuild, it is probably a silly question but the cuts are more plentyful and the patience thin.
Fitting a brand new chain, whilst fitting the front section of the Chaincase. Is there a recommended method of fitment?
Always grateful of assistance.

Twins / Re: Speedometer Drive Gear
« on: 06 August, 2018, 11:01:02 »
Thank you Julian

In desperation I bought gears from India, only £30 ish delivered. The gears measure up well but as you said the hole in the drive gear is about 40 thou too far back leaving the gear proud. I cannot redrill this as is (the gear will move) but will need to turn 90 degree and drill a new hole, it is possible.

However, the driven gear shaft has not been squared off to take the cable. Is this a heat and hammer or a specialist job. I need to decide whether to return or accept a discount.

Twins / Speedometer Drive Gear
« on: 12 July, 2018, 10:54:05 »
I am putting a Nova gearbox in my STD A10, it does not come with the speedometer drive gear. I went down to see Len Haggis to buy a new STD gear and driven gear after trying email, but, I think from his reaction he only orders for the RRT2 boxes. I cannot find other suppliers. I have tried to remove my current gear by drifting with a metal rod, with heat to no avail, the retaining pin has all been drilled and drifted out. The really annoying thing was that I drifted it in.

Has anyone advice on how I can get the speedometer drive gear out from the layshaft and for that matter how to get it in straight when refitting?

Twins / Re: Tight Valve rocker spindles
« on: 09 April, 2018, 14:45:30 »
Thanks AWJD Thumper & Caulky

I tried the old Spindle in the rocker cover and even that needs driving home, but does get there. It is not the washers or springs just the thickest part of the shaft. I have measured the spindles the difference is old spindle measures at 14.32 mm and the new ones 14.40, the difference is only 0.08mm but enough to mean it will not drive home.

My only decision now is whether to reduce the shaft and it is probably hardened chrome, or gently increase the aperture on the rocker cover and risk the next shaft not fitting.

Twins / Tight Valve rocker spindles
« on: 07 April, 2018, 17:20:05 »
I have bought new Valve rocker spindles from Supreme motorcycles, now Draganfly, as the old ones are badly scored. One has gone nearly in, just a further 3mm needed, the other has gone in up to the thread but I cant get the thread through. I will not damage either the thread or the oil feed pipe faces, but cannot with brass or hardwood protection push the spindles through any further. I have tried oiling and moving the springs and washers that position the rockers on the shaft In case they are fouling.

Am I missing a trick, is it often this difficult or will I need to start heating the rocker cover? If I heat, how do I stop the billet rocker cover distorting when driving the spindles home?

You could contact Steve McFarlane in Cardiff the original SRM creator on 029 2064 5045

Twins / BSA A10 Gearbox mainshft
« on: 18 September, 2017, 20:37:24 »
I have been waiting for a local racing company to produce a batch of 5 speed gearboxes but is taking forever. Having fitted an oversized needle roller, for the layshaft, that inner plate is now unusable. I have acquired another box and a needle roller layshaft from Draganfly, but my mainshaft, where it goes through the Clutch side bearing, has wear. I have read they can be hard chromed and ground to the correct diameter. I have only found 1 place in the south of England (Hounslow) that can do this. Has anyone a good recommendation of where I can go and an idea of price. Stripping engines, a rewire,12 conversion, electronic ignition new fork springs, I can do, machining is a new game to me.

Twins / Re: Battery flat after riding with lights on
« on: 18 September, 2017, 20:21:38 »
Drummie, with those voltages I agree the rectifier sounds faulty, but that does not explain why the battery discharges so quickly, The only thing that makes sense is the faulty rectifier has damaged the Battery and its capacity is shot. I would replace the rectifier, I would go solid state, and try another borrowed battery for a brief test. Otherwise I agree with Julian, you have a wire that is earthing out. If you want an original rectifier I like many have taken off a working rectifier.

Twins / Re: “Daylight MOT”
« on: 18 September, 2017, 20:09:22 »
Robin, I believe this is within the "construction and use" legislation. Motorcycles manufactured without lights should not have lights, (Other) motorcycles manufactured before 1986, built with a stop light should have a (working) stoplight. The MOT tester can only test against one set of rules. It may need re-classification to fit into a new class but that would take research and probably many upgrades. There is nothing to say you cannot refit the brake light post MOT for safety!

Confusing yes, but this is law.

Twins / Needle bearings
« on: 11 June, 2017, 20:24:40 »
I have converted my STD gearbox on my 1961 A10 to needle rollers. As the needle roller has no thrust washer portion that the bush has, there is nothing to hold it in place. Should I arrange to have a groove machined for a spring washer?

Twins / Re: No spark
« on: 11 June, 2017, 20:11:49 »

It appears to be Wassell part number WW19375 (x2). 6 VOLT. You could try contacting Wassell and asking where you could buy. They seem to come in Positive and Negative earth so make sure you specify.

Contact them at

Twins / Re: Gearbox play
« on: 20 April, 2017, 21:47:47 »
Julian, thanks again.

I am fairly clear looking at your examples my box marked STD is not in bad condition, by slight rounding I meant profile of the teeth not the dog itself. I have priced the parts from Draganfly and have 2 further questions. I think my layshaft is machinable but for longevity, I will buy new.

However, Draganfly provide a layshaft and specifically say it is one without the fourth gear attached. I have not TRIED to remove mine, but it seems fairly rigidly attached. Are there two versions or do I just need releasing fluid and elbow grease?

Second question, it is the clutch end of the layshaft that has much worse ribbing. Has anyone tried a mix of the close ended needle bearing, including a thrust washer, in the clutch end and a brass bush in the inner cover end? this would seem to resolve the ridging issue whilst negating machining. Is there an issue I have not thought about? If any further work is needed, like the other needle roller bearing, I will be able to do it with the box still in the bike.

Finally, I will of course replace both mainshaft bearings, it would be remiss not to.

Twins / Re: Gearbox play
« on: 19 April, 2017, 18:23:35 »
Thank you Julian

I have got the Gearbox stripped some of the gears are a little rounded on one side. How worn is too worn? The main problem, however, seems to be that the Mainshaft bearings on the kickstart end is well and truly shot, (the clutch end looks OK). The layshaft at the clutch end is ridged, so I can renew the layshaft and bush, get SRM to machine the layshaft and fit an oversized bush or as this seems to be a regular problem, has anyone had the Goldstar and later model needle roller bearing conversion? If so, does the case have to be machined or is this a straight fit?

Twins / Gearbox play
« on: 02 April, 2017, 18:13:38 »
The lower engine is back from SRM and turning beautifully. I started changing the worn Gearbox sprocket and when off including the spring ring, rotated the mainshaft. I am convinced like the engine, it has never been touched. There is a little rotational play but pulling the shaft, probably nearly 1.5 to 2mm of lateral play. Is this excessive, as I suspect an indication of worn bearings? It is not absolutely quiet in rotation either. I am happy stripping the box and replacing gears in situ where necessary, but drifting bearings in and out, then I think it could be going away. Please reassure me the movement is not a cause for concern. Like the engine I want to do EVERYTHING now, as I do not want to strip it completely again.

Does anyone have any simple tricks to get the oil seal out.

As always, any help is gratefully received.

Lionel (not the Lionel Smith in this month's Star!)

Twins / A10 SRM Five gear custer
« on: 06 March, 2017, 11:57:43 »
I am in the process of rebuilding the engine on my A10. It needed a double rebore and the journals ground to twice a normal grind. As the engine had been left too long before a rebuild I am assuming the gearbox will need attention. The kickstart sometimes sticks, according to haynes that is the ratchet or quadrant. I have a new final drive sprocket and SRM anti drip sleeve nut. Both Haynes and the service sheet say I must remove the gearbox to change the sprocket, is this true? Also Has anyone had the SRM five gear cluster fitted, are the ratios any better?

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