If it was me I'd put it back in the original position and go and do a few plug chops. You may get a starting point if you ask Amal or from the owners manual but it all depends on levels of wear, inlet and exhaust pressures (type of air filter, silencer etc) so you need to be able to tune it to match the bike. It's not tricky. Do you have the Ratio book? There is plenty of info in there on carb tuning.

Biggles987 - I sent you a PM. Let me know if you didn't get it.

Quote from: Dan_B33 on 23 September, 2024, 13:54:02
I like the last one (advise) the most!

Dan you're going to be the B33 expert by the time your done

Excellent news!

Quote from: cornishbob on 23 September, 2024, 09:36:54
buy the cheapest you can find that you like the look of. find out what needs to be done and do what you can. learn about it and what to look for. then go out and using your new found knowledge buy the bike of your dreams.

sell the old knackered one to recoup the money and ride off into the sunset...or not

That's a good point and how I've ended up with 3! Each one slightly better than the first!

With the length of the bike compared to the length of the spindle a tiny misalignment in the spindle really messes up the wheel alignment. My B31 wheel alignment was way off when I got it and this made the mudguard and number plate look way off. A string line and careful measuring got it spot on. I think I'd be more concerned about the smoke. If the rest of the frame looked straight but as V500 said there are plenty out there. Good luck!

That's great - thanks Dave 👍

Dave, that's good info. How did you get on with reassembly? Did you need special tools etc?

I was interested in stripping the plungers on mine just for checking and cleaning. Decided against it as reassembly looks very tricky unless you have special tools. Springs need compressing to get them back in the frame. I opted for pumping grease in on each ride until I see some new stuff ooze out. I read somewhere that filling them with grease gives a damping effect but I've no idea who said that or how credible it is. Seems to make sense though. I like the soft forks on my B31. There are a few off-road routes around here that it rides beautifully on (very mild green lane riding really)

You need to undo the two screws on the top of the carb and then the cap, throttle slide, needle and cable(s) all slide out together. If you don't need to adjust anything on the carb you can put this assembly in a zip lock bag or something and tie it out of the way. Undo the two mounting note and slide the carb off.

Best of luck - what a stressful situation. I sincerely hope it works out ok for you and your family.

Do you think about it before you try and get it on the stand? If so - don't!

Is it definitely leaking out of the tickler? If it's leaking out of the joint face then the pilot jet might not be pulling in fuel from the bowl. Assuming it's a concentric carb. Both bikes I have have concentric carbs and I've had to flatten both float bowl joint faces on a piece of glass with fine wet and dry to stop them leaking.

Is there a chance the clutch could be slipping? It should be easy to identify by feel as you kick it.

Does the coil voltage not seem like a bit of a red herring especiallly as you know you have carb issues and it sounded from previous posts that it might have been getting flooded? What model of carb do you have?