Thanks.
Photos would be brilliant

Has anyone fitted a side stand to a '54 Plunger B31?

If so, do you have any pictures (close up) showing where you attached it and where you got it from please?

Really struggling to get it on the centre stand every time.

Thanks

Hi.
Need some advice please.
My B31 plunger keeps bottoming the rear suspension on relatively small bumps when I'm two-up.

Is this "normal" behaviour?
Is there a way to stiffen up the suspension?
Are the plunger units relatively easy to strip and re-build (and if so, how?)

Incidentally, the front forks are really soft too - can they be serviced to make them stiffer?

Thanks

Quote from: Fraz on 22 August, 2024, 11:03:34

Quote from: Kernowpete2 on 22 August, 2024, 07:03:12
There should have been oil in the primary chain case when you took it off. Was there?

Yes, plenty oil came out

Thanks

Quote from: Kernowpete2 on 22 August, 2024, 07:03:12
There should have been oil in the primary chain case when you took it off. Was there?

Thanks

Just about to put my clutch back together after inspecting for wear and undecided if I should clean up the plates with brake cleaner?

The metal plates and friction plates were / are contaminated with oil.

Should they be coated with oil or should the clutch run dry? (Meaning I've got a leak issue somewhere)

Thanks

Thanks for your response.
Your point that the makers name hasn't been worn out, is a good indication that it's not the plates that have worn out - so that's good news.

I'm used to a clutch biting point about 2" from the bars, that I can operate with two fingers (like my friend's Matchless) and there being no slip when changing quickly going up a steep hill (for instance)

What does the adjuster behind the oil filler car do (in real world terms, to my bite point?)
And what would tightening down the clutch basket nuts some more achieve, relative to clutch lever bite point please?
Many thanks

Hi.
I didn't know there was another adjuster?

How would I set that up to make the bite point closer to my bars?

I'd just assumed that my plates were worn.

It's running well with the electronic ignition, not done it's cutting out thing - though I've not had much chance to ride it, when I have, it's much more reliable.

My biting point on my clutch is a long way from the bars and sometimes slips after changing gear quickly.

Adjusting the adjuster on the cable by the hear box only adds more free-play to the lever.

Ate removed the clutch plates and the friction plates have around 3.95mm (total thickness , including both wear surfaces and their barrier / backing plate)

Is the problem that there's not enough material left and I need new friction plates?
Or is there another way to adjust?

I'd like the biting point to be much closer to my bars.

I've found that the "points cap retaining spring" (don't know it's real name) is too short on my '54 Plunger B31 (see attached photo)

I need one that's 5cm - measured from the locating dimple to she centre of the mounting bolt.

Tried spares Stockists who say "they're just throw-away bits" and don't have one.

Having just fitted electronic ignition, which has a wire protruding from the points cover, I need the points cover to rotate as I use the manual advance / retard lever.
My retaining spring won't allow the spinning because the positioning of the locating dimple doesn't match the points cap.

Does anyone have the correct length retaining arm that I could buy please?

It's running great now - electronic ignition is the way.
Problem solved (it could've been the points gap or condenser but who cares, my bike is working now)

Today, I fitted (my friend fitted)    the electronic ignition and gpmjatmp switch to my B31, as an option to a magneto rebuild.

I thought I'd share some photos of placement in case it helps anyone else considering doing the same.

Thanks

Since I bought my '54 B31 in October, I've been having random cutting out and not re-starting issues, often moaned about on here.

New to the old 4 strokes, I was at a loss and many people said it sounded like condenser or magneto failure.

I took advice and bought the Thorspark electronic ignition, as a cheaper option than a magneto refurbished.

Took the bike round to a friend who knows how to do "stuff" and if set about checking the timing and points to make reference marks before fitting the electronic ignition.

He found my points were at 6 thou (instead of 18 to 20) and he swore blind that the points was my running issue.

How true could this be? (Out of interest)

The bike would run for 40 miles some times but them other times, only half a mile, before cutting out and only re-starting after several huge prods on the starter and flames shooting out of the exhaust.
Sometimes it would then be OK but mostly it would only run for a few yards before stalling again.  Once started, it would also stall / die as soon as the clutch started to bite.

Long story short, we fitted the electronic ignition and have now got to road test her but curious as to what people think about the points.

I'll post photos of where it was fitted, in a separate thread, just to assist anyone wanting to do the same.

Thanks

Can anyone advise what size and thread pitch, the magneto puller tool needs to be, for a '54 B31 please?

I may already have one that fits, from my vintage moped collection.

Thanks

My '54 B31 has running faults (as you're all probably aware by now)

Many people have suggested that the problem is my condenser failing.
The turn-around to get the magneto overhauled is around 6 weeks (and by then it'll be winter again)

I've found the "Easy-cap" (by Bright Spark) and Thorspark - both claim to be work-arounds for failing magnetosphere / condensers.

Has anyone out there, had any experience of using either product and any recommendations or/advice would be welcome.

They both seem to offer a quicker & cheaper solution to my issues, leaving ne'er to have the magdyno over hauled I'm winter.

Many thanks