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Messages - Derek996

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1
Singles / Re: B33 electrical fuse query
« on: 17 March, 2024, 10:59:01 »
The voltage drop will depend on how much current is being drawn. Assuming 8A at full load of all lights on with mail beam, a 1V drop across the fuse means the fuse has a resistance of 0.125Ω. Which I think is unrealistically high.

2
Singles / Re: B33 electrical fuse query
« on: 16 March, 2024, 12:52:22 »
Definitely good practice to fit a fuse at the battery. The size depends on the current that it will have to carry.  Assuming a 35W headlight bulb, the lights add to about 50W including the speedo illumination. With a 6V circuit that will draw just over 8A but another 3.5A when the brake light is on. I've no idea what the horn will draw but would expect maybe 5A. So a 20A fuse should suffice. This will protect the wiring in the event of a short circuit.

3
Singles / Re: How not to B33!
« on: 15 March, 2024, 09:45:08 »
It is normal thread, anti-clock to loosen.

4
Singles / Re: Engine breather B31
« on: 12 March, 2024, 19:46:46 »
I currently have the primary chaincase off my B32 and have been looking at the rather crappy breather valve. It's the same as fitted to the timing cover of the later bikes but is fitted to the main bearing housing instead. It has the same little fibre disc clack valve in it which really doesn't seem to work very well. I intend to fit a check valve in the hose downstream of it so that a partial vacuum is created in the engine. But I'm additionally considering two other options.
1. Fit an addition breather to the inlet rocker cover using the same check valve in the same direction, to allow air out but not in creating a vacuum internally,
2. Fit an addition breather to the inlet rocker cover using the same check valve in the opposite direction. This will allow air to travel into the top of the engine and get pumped out the bottom breather taking fumes and condensation with it. As long as the inlet is restricted it should create a partial vacuum in the engine helping to reduce oil leaks but given the location of the bottom breaker it might also carry a lot of oil with it. If it doesn't work I can just reverse the check vale in addition top breather.
These are the valves I'm using.

5
Singles / Re: Engine breather B31
« on: 11 March, 2024, 10:09:36 »
Have a look at the breather system on this M24 based racer. The huge catch tank has hoses from the drive see original breather, from the breather on the later timing side cover and 2 addition breathers from the rocker box. It has  tap underneath to drain off any oil collected.

6
Singles / Re: SS80 12v using a WW10124W reg rec
« on: 10 March, 2024, 09:48:27 »
I have done similar upgrades to Ducatis, using a 3-phase regulator with single phase, 2 wire single alternator. Connect your 2 wires to any of the yellow wires and leave the other yellow wire disconnected. it will work just fine like that.

7
Singles / Re: How not to B33!
« on: 09 March, 2024, 10:07:01 »
I've got mine off just now, I'll have a look. Yours looks like the boss that attaches to the engine isn't centred.

8
Singles / Re: Hepolite oil pump really disappointed BSA B31
« on: 05 March, 2024, 20:06:55 »
If you are looking for a quality oil pump you could get one from ABSAF in the Netherlands.
https://www.absaf.nl/index.php?page=3&product=13
I don't know what they cost but they won't be cheap.

9
Singles / Re: B31 ammeter
« on: 04 March, 2024, 16:03:09 »
I doubt if the chrome shell is the original fitment, most if not all headlamps from this period were painted black and mounted on the fork shrouds with no cowl. Cowls weren't fitted until 1953.
Cream faced -8  +8 ammeters are readily available but only with 1¾" or 2" dials. It may be that the 1¾" fits a 1½" aperture. Most currently available ammeters seem to be made in India and the quality can be dubious.

10
Singles / Re: Lucas dynamo, is it correct for my b33 ?
« on: 01 March, 2024, 14:03:32 »
When the dynamo arrives you can test it by connecting the D and F terminals together and connecting a battery -ve to the joined wires and the +ve to the dynamo case. It should run as a motor and in the same direction as the arrow on the housing, clockwise for the B33 if I remember correctly. This is a good indicator that the dynamo can be good but not a definite indicator. To be sure, keep the D and F terminals connected and connect a bulb across the joined terminals and the housing. Use an electric drill or whatever other means to spin the dynamo. The bulb should light confirming the dynamo is OK.

11
Singles / Re: How not to B33!
« on: 29 February, 2024, 09:53:14 »
Anyone off you have experience with backorders from Dragonfly?
How long it takes for them to get the part? They say something abou 2 months? I do not understand how it works.
That's a pity. When they have the part in stock they are pretty good.

12
Singles / Re: Lucas dynamo, is it correct for my b33 ?
« on: 28 February, 2024, 13:38:26 »
Oops! I should have read the original post more carefully. I saw it was a 1954 B33 and assumed it was an E3LM as the E3 HM LO was dropped two a year or earlier. There are no 12V conversions for the E3HM LO apart from changing the regulator as Neil suggests. I completely agree with him that whatever road you take changing the dynamo for an E3LM is best.

13
Singles / Re: Lucas dynamo, is it correct for my b33 ?
« on: 28 February, 2024, 10:48:10 »
If you just want to change to 12v with your dynamo as it is without upgrading it then you want the DVR2 regulator. https://www.dynamoregulators.com/dvr2.php
It is switchable for 6V or 12V and is available for both positive and negative earth systems. ( If you are thinking of LED bulbs you may want to consider changing to -ve earth, although many LED bulbs available now will work with both +ve and -ve earth.)

If you want to go the whole hog and fully convert the dynamo you can get the parts from Feked (https://www.feked.com)
12V armature https://www.feked.com/12v-motorcycle-dynamo-armature-179mm.html
12V field coil https://www.feked.com/12v-dynamo-field-coil.html

I would recommend that you fit new brushes while you are at it.

14
Singles / Re: Lucas dynamo, is it correct for my b33 ?
« on: 28 February, 2024, 09:45:35 »
I have the same dynamo on my B32. It didn't work when I bought the bike and when I investigated it I found that it had no brushes and the armature was useless. Sine it needed a rebuild I decided to go for 12V.
There are 2 options:

1. If the dynamos working properly at 6V, simply fit an electronic regulator that will allow it to produce 12V. The downside for this is that the engine will have to be running at higher revs before the dynamo will put out enough volts to charge the battery. So if most of your riding is at in town speeds the battery might not get fully charged.

2. A full 12V conversion. This will need a 12V armature and 12V field coil as well as an electronic regulator. This will provide charging at little more that tickover speeds. The downside is it's much more expensive but since I was doing a full rebuild of the dynamo that wasn't an issue.

Since rebuilding my dynamo I have done 5 or 6 more for other people so I'm quite well acquainted with Lucas dynamos now.

15
Singles / Re: Magdyno points issue
« on: 28 February, 2024, 09:32:47 »
I can probably send you one if stuck
I would appreciate that Neil as I'm going to need one sooner or later. PM me what you want for it and we can work something out.

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