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Messages - B-S-Africa

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1
Twins / Re: Removing oil pump A50
« on: 22 January, 2021, 18:07:41 »
And it is OFF!

I have planning this little exercise for a while now. Prepped myself mentally as well. Had everything ready for 09h00 this morning. Made a strong pot of coffee, stuffed a good pipe and 09h00 I pushed the bike into the workshop. Had a cold one in the fridge for afterwards, which was estimated for 13h00. Midday came and went. It is now dark and night. And I am back with coffee. Tomorrow is another day. Calling it a day (or night).

I did the first gear, wify on brakes, socket and tommy bar thing again. The engine puts up virtually no resistance. So off with the primary cover, spanner on the nut for the rotor and off the other nut came. The worm gear also. Then the pump.

Thanks gents for all your valuable inputs!   

2
Twins / Re: Removing oil pump A50
« on: 22 January, 2021, 15:09:59 »

One point comes to mind and that may consider. If the nuts have been over tightend such action could well have had a crushing effect on the alluminium pump casing around the stud, causing a pinch action on the stud thread.

You may have to consider using two nuts(locked) and taking the studs out.

MIke 8) 8) 8)

I started to have a similar thought. I used a spot light and examined the whole of the pump as it sits there, while wiggling it, to see if I can’t see the why it is stuck. And the why is still visually hidden from me. The pump turns very nicely when I turn the centre nut. It turns both ways very smoothly.

Thanks

3
The Star and Garter / Re: Pint - US or UK?
« on: 22 January, 2021, 14:16:44 »
Regards converting liquid measurements can you not buy a cooking measuring jug. I use one all the time it makes converting easy.

Thanks, I indeed have cooking measuring jugs, four or five. You are right, they are very useful, but would that be the US or UK pint? They convert differently to metric.

4
Twins / Re: Removing oil pump A50
« on: 22 January, 2021, 14:11:40 »
I attach two pictures, one before removal of the three nuts and one with pump slightly loose. I pulled and jerked at it again. Stuck, except for that wee wiggle.

Hi Dave, I had good fitting socket firmly on, engine in first gear, rear brake fully down and a proper tommy bar. It only turned the engine. That was clockwise (left hand thread).

Thinking out loud: what if I take the pump apart in situ? Then remove the housing of the pump? Then access the ball and spring? Or apply more pressure in wedging the pump off?

5
Twins / Re: Removing oil pump A50
« on: 22 January, 2021, 13:37:16 »
Erratum  to my first post  - The rotor is left. Not right.

Thank you for your speedy reply. :) What you wrote, was what I initially did. NO WAY the pump comes off. I, very carefully, wedge a screwdriver between the casing and the pump and got the pump to wiggle a bit. I stopped that exercise once I felt I may start to use excessive force. So the pump “wiggles” slightly at this stage.  Then I went the tried and tested way, that of reading the manual when all else fails. Three of my manuals prescribe the process I explained above (that of removing the worm gear).

Now question is: HOW do I get the pump away from the casing. All three nuts and spring washes are removed.

6
Twins / Removing oil pump A50
« on: 22 January, 2021, 13:13:00 »
Hi,

I am in the process of removing the oil pump. I have what I think is an above and beyond normal or acceptable wet sumping. I want to inspect / clean / replace the ball and spring and also clean out the oil pump. This is a 1970 model that has currently 7400km on the clock of which I personally had put on about a 1000km. Why I mention this, is that the bike (and engine) still has very little wear and tear. It had stood for about 45 years indoors. I removed the inner cover and exposed the oil pump. How do I lock the engine? I flattened the tab-washer under the crankshaft nut. I turned the nut clockwise (left hand thread). I expected the engine to turn as well. Next I put the bike in first gear and had the wife standing on the rear brake (this works with my other bikes). Yet the engine kept turning.

Can I lock the shaft on the right side by the rotor? Or is there some other technique?  :-\

7
The Star and Garter / Re: Pint - US or UK?
« on: 22 January, 2021, 13:08:42 »
P.S.
And yes, I neglected to point out, it is a ‘70 A50.

8
The Star and Garter / Re: Pint - US or UK?
« on: 22 January, 2021, 13:05:43 »
Hi,

I have various manuals. Hard copies and electronic. The spanners thing I’ve gotten under control. So also the feeler sizes. I am, however, still very unfamiliar with working with non-metric fluid units. I often have to convert imperial units to metric, since (as mentioned) I am in a metric country and they don’t sell here fluids by the pints or gallons.  I am aware that there are differences between the countries opposite of the Atlantic and that is why I want certainty. I take it that when working on the BSA I shall stick to UK unit values. British bike = British values.

Thanks for the inputs. Much appreciated!  :) :)

9
The Star and Garter / Pint - US or UK?
« on: 20 January, 2021, 17:10:09 »
I stay in a country that uses the metric system, which I also grew up with. My BSA forced me to study the imperial system. My one manual, a Clymer, was printed in the USA. It refers to units like pints. But there is a noticeable difference between the US and the UK pint (and also other units). My question: when a BSA manual refers to a volume unit, do I follow the UK or the USA? Is the reference to volume country of publication orientated, or country of bike manufacturing orientated?

10
The Star and Garter / Re: Cleaning engine parts
« on: 17 January, 2021, 19:00:49 »
I use diesel and a toothbrush. I also used petrol, but petrol (where I did some serious washing and scrubbing with it) tends to be rough on my hands.

11
Which BSA do you ride? / 1970 Royal Star
« on: 10 January, 2021, 11:44:42 »
Hi, I am new to this forum, having previously read entries as a guest. This is my 70 Royal Star.

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