Quote from: Wheelnut on 14 December, 2023, 11:29:44
On reflection, the Yanks drive on the right, so wouldn't the US spec forks have the fork spindle inclined so as to have a tendency to turn left to counteract the camber? My bike has the fork spindle inclined to have a tendency to turn right!

The plot thickens, but the forks might well be the issue on my bike.

Here's my machine, now fitted with Spitfire alloy tank as the original Hornet tank was sadly destroyed by modern ethanol fuel, despite having an epoxy liner.

I suppose it is possible if you have a mismatched combination of fork legs ( early/late ) that it could interfere with front wheel tracking.

Quote from: Dan_B33 on 12 December, 2023, 12:10:51
Magdyno seal port. Is that regular size? I have seen them smaller on videos...

The magdyno oil seal area was somehow worn larger and oval on my B31 too. I managed to sort it by fitting a seal with a larger outer dimension and generous use of silicone sealant. The trick is then to make sure the magdyno pinion meshes naturally with the idler pinion whilst at the same time is central to the new oil seal.
Pete

Quote from: Roy on 25 November, 2023, 17:44:55
That's very typical of that type of pump , the maisak pump body  distorts and pinches the pump gears ,to put is bluntly old pumps are a nightmare,and if/ when they are tighten and pinching the screw on the crank pinion gear and the upright spindle will strip and you then have no pump ,it's most likely all the old pumps you see on auction site have been taken out for a reason ,the gears and counter bore could be relived but if to much is taken out the pump is next to useless, best suggestion is to buy /save up for a new hepolite brand pump supplied by wassells
I have fitted and used dozens of these for road and race , with no trouble at ALL. Super steel body pump ,

I agree i spent ages trying to free up my B31 oil pump, changed body on it even but was still tight on refitting. Paid for a new pump as suggested above - expensive though- but the engine needs oil- there's a reason why its always the first thing in the owners manual.

Quote from: Editor on 31 October, 2023, 16:26:02
Pete, Is it OK if I publish this in The Star?

Yes of course , please do!

I thought I would share a bit of experience of using domestic copper 15mm pipe as a drift.
Obviously the walls are fairly thin and tend to roll over but the tubing seems to withstand quite a beating in use. if it gets too deformed you can just cut off the end and start again.

Ive used it to knock out bearings and bushes especially where you come up close to threaded areas that can be easily damaged when using steel tools. Works well where you can only get an edge on as with swing arm bushes and steering head cups.
In use rotate the tube so that as it deforms it does so symmetrically forming a lip.

I would have thought 1/4" is standard for most old British bikes?

Quote from: Dan_B33 on 19 October, 2023, 11:45:03
Oil leaks?
Not from primary chain case!
Oil change is for losers....Just be patient and run oil turns to a gelly mixture wit a time .
You won't get any leaks.

Previous owner might have used a mix of grease and oil to minimise leaks ?

Quote from: neil1964 on 12 October, 2023, 10:21:52

Quote from: Pete Gill on 10 October, 2023, 11:48:27
I made a crude Perspex replica of the monobloc float chamber cover. Ensuring the dimple is marked in the precise location below the name. I'm informed the fuel level should coincide with the dimple. So is this a bit low? I'm considering shims.
Pete

Looks like a nice way to do this.
Assuming your float moves nicely can't you bend the little brass tab on the float, or even trim the length of the float needle (on the side that the float tab touches!!)
Does not look desperately off.

Is the carb actually on the manifold during this measurement?

No the carb was off the head at the time.i was careful to hold it vertically. As  you are probably aware the monobloc is not actually the correct fitment for the bike ( I think a GP carb was the original) and getting the float cover off not possible when attached to the head.
I will hold onto this for now as I'm unlikely to get this bike out again this year - other irons in the fire.
I'll update next spring! I would like to get the fuel level raised a little just to see if it changes things.

 I made a crude Perspex replica of the monobloc float chamber cover. Ensuring the dimple is marked in the precise location below the name. I'm informed the fuel level should coincide with the dimple. So is this a bit low? I'm considering shims.
Pete

That's  good food for thought, thank you Neil. Although i must say that i would run out of courage a long time before 80 mph considering my steering and suspension unless it was a pristine quiet straight dual carriageway!

Just an update.
I decided to go with changing the main from a 250 to a 270 (mainly as i had a spare one in the spares box) did another long run a couple of days ago. No difference . I tried the choke trick but I'm not really sure it helped. Backing off the throttle a little made it run smoother. Im now thinking I've got fuel starvation on wide open throttle for some other reason. I will recheck my float height and report back.

Quote from: Jim S on 03 October, 2023, 23:00:13
Good point Pete.

Apparently if there is a counter bore in the carb body, you put a fibre washer. If no counter bore, no washer. I was schooled on this in another forum...

Thanks Jim, i knew some carbs used a washer but I wasn't sure how to work out which ones.
Pete

I have experienced similar running rich. I have found that the monobloc carb fuel height as governed by the float and float valve is altered by me mistakenly placing a fibre washer between the float valve holder and carb body. Placing a washer there will raise the float level considerably. Under number 9 on the diagram. Some place shims here to finely tune the fuel level.

Quote from: LIONELSMITH on 23 September, 2023, 15:19:51
I'm not starting the Bike again until the oil priming is sorted, but turning it over I am getting two rattles from the top of the engine. I've been doing some reading. After finding one push rod had dropped out of the rocker cup a while ago I am wondering whether the cam followers are sticking.
Has anyone ad this? It is probably time for my umpteenth engine strip down only this time the block comes off.

I had an issue after i rebuilt my B31 a few years ago. It kept doing a similar thing and ended up with an unseated pushrod. It turned out that my friend who had replaced the valve guides for me hadn't done a great job at cutting new seats and also had not honed out the valve guides adequately to give sufficient clearance. The exhaust valve stem had galled in the guide and the valve stuck open intermittently.
I think you might need to get the head off and check the valve stems.

Quote from: Steve.S on 19 September, 2023, 15:40:33
Sounds a bit like the engine is "hunting", but this normally occurs at a smaller throttle opening and indicates a rich mixture. If you have no success with the carburettor, I wonder if the cush drive might need tightening a little?

Thanks Steve I will look into I this.