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Messages - Mike40M

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Singles / Re: Oil leak at front wheel
« on: 29 November, 2021, 17:04:28 »
Adrians advice seems a good starting point. If cleaned, you might be able to find where the leak is.
The drain plug washer or the damper washer as likely source of the leak. Not unusual with drain plug leaks if reusing the old one.
It should be easy to find out if fork seals are  source of the leak as described in earlier posts.
Checking the single side sealed wheel bearing can be done when you take off the wheel.

Singles / Re: Battery flat
« on: 29 November, 2021, 11:06:04 »
It might be that modern vehicles constantly draws current. Though some modern motorcycles can have a winter sleep and start in spring, other not.
Worst I have is a 2018 Citroen van that has to be run at least once a month to maintain battery charge. Even worse. some modern cars with flat or removed battery must be reprogrammed when fitting a charged battery. Also experienced that some of the modern electronic regulators we fit to our old bikes draw current. I now have the habit to take out the fuse on bikes not frequently used.
As Pete says, your Bonnie battery might need replacement. Or simply sell the bike and rely on the B40.

Edit: Batteries are best stored fully charged and cold. All chemical processes goes slower at low temperatures. A charged battery will not freeze. A poorly charged battery can crack at -30C. Happened to me.

Singles / Re: Taps for oil feed line
« on: 11 November, 2021, 23:27:59 »
Something that prevents starting with tap closed is strongly recommended. If you have roller crank bearings you might get more than 10 miles riding before a slight piston seizing. And not much cam wear. On a Vincent anyhow. Plain bearings probably just a minute before bearing replacement needed.

Singles / Re: Concentric carb experience
« on: 11 November, 2021, 09:02:21 »
Do the forceps compress the spring and hold it tight to the carburettor top?
Yes, the forceps grips the wire keeping the spring compressed up to the top. Makes it easier to fit wire and needle into the slide.

Singles / Re: Concentric carb experience
« on: 10 November, 2021, 23:11:06 »
Clamp forceps. Not perfect but works quite well

Singles / Re: Throttle stop screw (Concentric carb)
« on: 08 November, 2021, 07:14:20 »
I've done initial adjustment as Julian said without taking carb off by using a thin welding rod under the throttle slide. Turning the adjusting screw in until the rod can move free. Not certain if it works on a B40 where it's not much space to get a bent rod in.

Singles / Re: BSA M33 500 1955 Engine looses Power after 20 min
« on: 17 September, 2021, 21:35:39 »
Could be no tank breathing. Check if vacuum by removing tank cap when it looses power. Sometimes it can be that simple.

The 60W E3L don't give much at low revs, so it might be that your battery is draining with lights on. Especially with a 4Ah battery, which I think is less than the original. For a Norton WD16H which had been upgraded with an EL3 from the 40W E3, I fitted LED lamps some 5 years ago. Got no battery drain with lamps on at moderate revs. Back then LED lamp beam pattern was poor, but I'm told that there are LEDs with a decent beam pattern now.

Singles / Re: Amal concentric carb - BSA M33 + Aspen
« on: 07 September, 2021, 20:49:34 »
On Aspen 4. Ethanol free. 95 octane. Can be in tank and carburettor for long periods. Started a Norton WD16H second kick. Forgot to retard ignition on first kick. Had stood in barn for 5 years unused with Aspen in it.
Seems to have same jetting on Aspen as on E0 or E5.

Singles / Re: New owner with B50mx oil tank questions
« on: 28 August, 2021, 10:55:16 »
I believe Google isn't always the best source.
According to the owners manual oil capacity is 2.25 litres or i US pints 4 3/4.
Found on

Singles / Re: New owner with B50mx oil tank questions
« on: 28 August, 2021, 07:05:05 »
One thing you did not mention is what level you had in the oil tank after it had spewed out oil.
If nobody turns up who can measure correct dipstick size, you can get a decent picture here which may help.
Edit: Google on the part number, you'll find some for sale.

Singles / Re: New owner with B50mx oil tank questions
« on: 27 August, 2021, 20:55:25 »
If the bike had stood unused for 4 years, it has definitely wetsumped most of the oil in the tank into the crankcase. All dry sump bikes wetsumps more or less. 55 years since I started riding and competing British motorcycles. With age, I every now and then forget simple things like my wife's birthday or draining the crankcase. So it is possible that your crankcase wasn't drained and oil added by the previous owner. The short runs it had was not enough to clear the sump. Another 1/4 mile overfilled the oil tank.
A good thing is that your engine is so tight that it kept it's oil in the crankcase without going out on the floor. But check that you have correct level in the primary. Have a wetsumped Norton that blow a crankcase seal overfilling the primary.

Singles / Re: basic B40 electrics then to upgrade
« on: 16 August, 2021, 09:35:44 »
The 3 wire alternator has to be connected to the light switch so that it gives more power with lights on. A simple solution for not overcharging the battery. It can be used with a modern rectifier/regulator with (the right) two leads connected together. The later 2 wire alternator was to be used with a Zener diode preventing overcharging of the battery.
I suggest you check on Paul Goffs website Lots of useful information there
I've bought parts from him for a complete rewiring of my WD B40.

Singles / Re: 441 vs kick start rubber
« on: 11 August, 2021, 18:17:36 »
When I swept the floor in the workshop today, I found the closed end of the rubber on the first VS mentioned before. Seems the same as the Feked one. But they are too short for a good fit. So I guess that it might be that a 85mm long open ended one is better. Anyhow I will try one as soon as I get one home.

Singles / Re: 441 vs kick start rubber
« on: 09 August, 2021, 09:41:18 »
Sorry can't give a definite answer. The drawing in the parts book could be either. Looking at the most original VS I have. the kick start rubber is so worn at the end so that it is impossible to tell. But it has the text BSA. The other VS  has an open end, no text, so probably replaced at some time. Can't remember the looks on the one I bought new 51 years ago. But the rubber from Feked (fkrub11) is very similar to the probably original one I have. But on that one you have to make a 1/2" hole at the end.
Edit: On second try on a local shop found a 85mm long open ended, BSA marked one which could be the one to have.

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