Hi, with the oil pressure gauge you can get some clues to whether the bush is in a good condition. If it is not oil pressure will be low. Let the engine reach working temperature and check the gauge. IMHO you should have at least 5 psi at idle and another 10 psi per 1000rpm up to 50-60 psi. Another cause for low oil pressure could be worn conrod big ends.

The -72 has the cast iron oil pump which is much preferred to the earlier mazak bodied.

Hi, I assume you could put back the air slides without cables just to see if the stalling goes away. I think the stalling could be caused by something else. Did you manage to get the engine heat up? If so, any improvements?

Excess oil will cause a loss of power when the clutch basket drags in oil. The oil will also heat up imho.

Yes, should have written cylinder head. Sorry.

Your base is good, would be very interesting to know what kind of oil pressure you see if you proceed with a gauge.

I think the midel year -71 also had a cast iron oil pump, if you have that you are extra lucky.

Some heat from a heat gun applied to the yokes could help. If you are not too concerned about the paintwork.

On my TRW250 the chrome top nuts were a bit shabby, I loosened them a couple of turns and with a sharp hammer blow on the nut the leg came loose without heat. Cheers

The timing side has the clutch wire attachment which I think came on 1970 models. My 1969 Lightning does not have it. Cheers

Hi, must be an air leak, through the seals or the carb, a worn slide or between carb and inlet to the engine. I would try a brand new carb, if the slide or the carb body is worn it could be worse when the engine heats up and some heat is transfered to the carb. Fuel evaporating has a cooling effect of course. A carb issue is more likely than the seals since air leaks through the seals would not give any additional petrol.