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1
Singles / Burman gearbox spline problem
« on: 25 October, 2021, 19:37:03 »
The gearbox in question is a 1938 4 speed, foot change Burman type H, the one with the clutch operating lever inside the outer cover.  The gear change quadrant and its gear lever have both lost nearly all their splines.  I have tried for twelve months to locate replacements without success.  Does anyone know anyone, or any company, that can restore them?  Please let me have their contact details.  I have photos if required. 

2
Singles / B series spares
« on: 01 October, 2021, 21:16:43 »
Hello everyone.  Age has forced me to sell my B31 and I have listed some spares for the B31/33 series in the "for sale" column.
Have a look and if anything interests you get in touch.  Regards to all.

3
Singles / Re: What piston
« on: 30 September, 2021, 19:52:48 »
Many thanks JulianS.  That's cleared that little conumdrum thanks to your knowledge.  Isn't that what forums are for?  Thanks again.  Ride safe all.

4
Singles / Re: What piston
« on: 30 September, 2021, 16:06:34 »
It would seem to be a B33 piston but I can't see where 65-1693 fits into the series, unless there was ever a +10 oversize. 65-1692 is B33 std, 65-1694 is B33 +20, 65-1696 is B33 +40.
/quote]
Hello Derek, and all other correspondents:- I don't think it's a 10 thou oversize size piston as its dia is 3.34" (84.84mm).  Cannot find 65-1693 to 1696 in any of the literature I have, and I have a lot.  I must assume it to be for the STD bore B33.  Is the 42mm from the top of the piston to the centre of the gudgeon pin correct?

5
Singles / What piston
« on: 29 September, 2021, 19:50:40 »
Hello all.  I have several items relating to the B single series that I need to shift.  One of the items is a very usable piston but I don't know for which model its for.  The top of the piston is marked 65/1693   and   3/55.  Its diameter is 84.93mm and the distance from the top of the piston to the centre of the gudgeon pin is 42mm.  Can anyone tell me what it will fit so I can advertise the items as a job lot?  Thanks in advance.

6
Twins / Re: Kickstart splines and carburation problems
« on: 07 September, 2021, 11:02:34 »
Many thanks for your suggestions Chaz and Mike, I will look into them.  Sorry about the 2nd problems description.  Should have read:-  The 217 type Amal carburettor was leaking petrol from the top of the mixing chamber union nut and I was wondering if this was caused by the float chamber petrol level being too high.  The float needle is working OK and not passing. 

7
Twins / Kickstart splines and carburation problems
« on: 05 September, 2021, 12:35:02 »
My apologies for this thread as it's about my 1938 350 AJS and not the A10.  However, as the problems are related to all makes of motorcycles, and as this is the only Forum I belong to I hope you will have a look and, if possible, you may be able to help. 
 Problem 1;- The splines on the kickstart lever and also on the quadrant have worn away and the replacements for both are unobtainable.  Is anyone aware if there is a company which can make good the splines on these items?  If so I would be interested to hear from you.
Problem 2:- The Amal carburettor 217 from the top of the mixing chamber union nut.  The float chamber needle is not passing and holds the level at a midgies d##k below the Amal letter on the side of the float chamber.  Is this normal?
All answers appreciated.

8
Twins / Re: A10 Crankcase Breather Check
« on: 20 August, 2021, 19:29:37 »
Thanks for the replies Dave and Mo.  Looking at the aptly named "top hat  breather sleeve" there was no across the engine play but there is a hole through which one could put air through to check the air passages are clear to atmosphere at the bottom of the stroke but closed at the top of the stroke.  So I did and they were.  I could easily have missed checking it out closely if you hadn't mentioned it-so thank you both.  Ride safe all.

9
Twins / A10 Crankcase Breather Check
« on: 17 August, 2021, 19:41:19 »
Hello all.  See my topic A10 Odd Cylinder Sizes of 12 August. After several static runs totaling approx 30 mintes I have decided to investigate the smoking problem in more detail.  I have removed the head, cylinder and pistons to check further but before that I want to check if the crankcase breathing system is working -- without removing the inner cover of the timing side.  Is this possible?  If so can anyone explain/describe how, especially as the exit port in the drive side crankcase has no pipework fitted and the port is extremely difficult to get at.   

10
Twins / A10 Odd Cylinder Sizes??
« on: 12 August, 2021, 11:56:32 »
Doing a top end re-furb for a friend who says its a bit rattley.  The valves and springs are like new, bit of wear on the guides.  Bores glazed but OK and no wear obvious so were just honed.  Both pistons compression ring gaps between .007 and .015".  LH oil ring at .031 RH at .025.  Bores at +.040".
Decision taken to fit new guides and new rings:- New bronze guides fitted, valve seats cut and re-ground-all good.  Fitting new rings showed the problem.  The LH piston was OK at '008 to .009" ring gaps but the RH rings would not fit into the cylinder??? Checking the pistons, which were a pair, showed the RH piston diameter (front to back) was .004" smaller than the left one. The RH ring gaps were ground on my Dremel to .009".  Both piston to cylinder clearances are good at .005" each.  I can only think this could be if the bores were machined to suit the individual pistons, what do you think.  I have never heard of this before.
Anyway, it's all back together now and after 3-4 minutes running it seems OK except that the LH cylinder, which I consider to be the std +.040 size, is burning oil more than the RH one.  Fingers crossed it will even out once the rings have done a bit of work. What do you think folks?

11
Bantam / Re: D14 Runaway
« on: 17 July, 2021, 16:55:07 »
Well, After removing the carb again and removing the studs in the barrel I checked  the face fits of the carb and the barrel (again).  They seemed OK to me but I spot faced both surfaces anyway and refitted the carb using a new gasket and "o" ring.  When I next started the bike the fault was still there so perhaps you are both right and it needs a new carb.  Will advise the owner as such.  Thanks for all your help, much appreciated.

12
Bantam / Re: D14 Runaway
« on: 15 July, 2021, 17:29:02 »
Thanks for the possible causes.  I tried it again today after fitting the air filter and it was still the same.  Will take it off again tomorrow, remove and check the carbs possible fault areas-again-and give it another go.  Will keep my fingers crossed >:(

13
Bantam / Re: D14 Runaway
« on: 14 July, 2021, 20:28:15 »
Hello all.  I need help to understand something new to me.  I have no experience with 2 stokes at all but I am a B31 member of the club and thought I would ask yourselves.  I am doing a favour for a friend by getting his 1971 D14 running, it had stood unused in his garage for 5 years.  I have taken off the tank, seat and air filter.  Removed and ultra-sonically cleaned the Concentric. Charged the battery.  Checked the timing.  Got a good spark.  Fitted a temporary petrol supply and after a LOT of kicking eventually got it running.   Then after roughly 5 minutes it took off at full revs.  Closing the throttle had no response, removing the plug lead the same, disconnecting the battery which made no difference, bike still at full revs.  Only stopped when I blanked the carb air intake with my hand.  Can anyone explain in a way I can understand?
Also, how big a job is it to re-place the seals, and how expensive would it be as my friend doesn't want to spend a lot on it. I ask because someone told me that they would need replacing after such a long time standing.
The bike is in really good condition, only had 2 owners and has a genuine 1800 miles on the clock.
All replies gratefully received.  Thanks.

Hello-again.  Re the above Bantam.  I have changed the seals and all the bearings are fine so I left them alone. Used all new gaskets.  Ignition spot on at 16.5degrees BTC. The carb ultrasonically cleaned, the sticking kick start lever sorted and with the tank, seat, air filter removed and a temporary fuel supply rigged up I got it running-after a lot of kicking.  It was running fine,  the choke fully open and responding well to the throttle. But after a few minutes it took off again at full revs and not responding to the throttle at all.  After a while I found by trial and error that it could only be controlled by the throttle with the choke closed.  Open the choke fully and it was back to square one with no throttle control.  Tomorrow I will put the air filter back on to see if that makes a difference. 
The are no carbon deposits on the piston or head so its not that.  Any ideas anyone? 
 

14
Bantam / Re: D14-4 Gearbox assembly
« on: 12 July, 2021, 21:12:36 »
Hello all.  I doubled up on the thickness of the gasket on the cover Dean but it made no difference to the kick start lever occasionally jamming so the  gasket stays standard.  However after re-placing the rear wheel chain, and when the lever next jammed I selected a gear and the lever freed once the rear wheel was turned slightly.  So that's how it going to be.  Thanks Adrian.

15
Bantam / Re: D14-4 Gearbox assembly
« on: 09 July, 2021, 20:19:29 »
Hello Dean.  I do have a gasket fitted but I will double up on it and see if it makes a difference.  Will let you know if it eases the situation.  Watch this space. 

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