Thank you, Bill.

Quote from: paulm on 06 July, 2025, 10:32:49Bottom right hand side? are we talking were the pressure release valve is? maybe a photo would help not sure were you mean exactly, however there is or should be a hole in the gasket for the pressure release, is this covered up

My timing cover was cracked next to the non return valve, probably caused by the screw being over tightened. Is there any chance that this is the cause of the problem?

I fixed it with JB Weld, after undercutting the crack.

Quote from: DAVE BRADY on 04 July, 2025, 14:22:17Hi,

Sorry! it should have been this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nIm-aMPRlI8#:~:text=How%20To%20Shorten%20or%20Repair%20Throttle%20Cable%2C%20Brake%20or%20Clutch%20Cables%20with%20Solder%20%2D%20Motorcycle%20|%20Part%2018

Dave.

Thanks Dave, that's much more helpful than the other video! 

Quote from: DAVE BRADY on 04 July, 2025, 09:21:55Hi,

Watch this. it may help.

https://youtu.be/mbGEyK7DP7E

Dave.

How does a a video about Brunswick Mill help?

I've got one of those lump of copper on a stick type soldering irons. But don't I need a birdcaging tool?

I have a bike I can't get the correct clutch cable for; the only cable I can find has too long an inner.  Is there a firm localish to me (North Bucks) who can alter it?

Quote from: Pleba on 29 April, 2025, 07:17:27Good morning everyone,
first of all thanks for the clarifications.
sorry for the delay but I couldn't answer before .
I looked for the frame number everywhere but I didn't find anything, as soon as I have time I'll try to brush it. in your opinion is it a bike modified over the years? so it's not worth fixing it? it would be nice to know the history of this part, even the carburetor seems strange to me, has the bsa ever mounted dell'orto? yes anyway after cleaning the carburetor it started, it burns a lot of oil but it works, I also managed to take a ride, let's say that next time I'll put the chain guard on I found oil in parts that I didn't even know about
Giacomo

It does seem to be a bike modified over the years, but that doesn't mean it isn't worth fixing; it means that it is a bike with a most unusual history, a history that is well worth preserving; dents, scrapes, unmatched paintwork and all.

If you can identify the various parts used, you will be able to establish roughly when the alterations were made. The bike may have been like this for many years.

Quote from: Dan_B33 on 25 April, 2025, 11:13:13Hello,
Some news from here:

- piston/cylinder/rings set ready clearance to the spec

- electric installation almost done

 Shall be on the road next week


Dan

Great!

I've pulled the outer cover from my M33 gearbox to see if I can do anything about the less than precise gear change. Doing something about the multitude of worn parts I've found is well in hand but I have a few questions:

1) Can the pedal shaft bush be removed and replaced from the inner gearbox cover without removing that cover, and am I right to assume the new bush has to be reamed to size?

2) It would be folly not to replace the ratchet lever sleeve bush in the outer cover at the same time, so does that need to be reamed to size, too?

3) Some of the inner cover has been worn away, I presume because the kickstart return spring is not the right one. There's now a hole which I think is revealing part of the speedo drive. Previously there was a cracked section here, which seemed to be the result of the speedo drive being forced into position.

There's been no hint of trouble from these cracks or the hole, but how concerned should I be?

Here are some photos.

Quote from: GLENN on 08 March, 2025, 21:55:14OK, the measurement really depends on were you take it, for example they both flair out slightly towards the end of the tailpiece.  overall the M20 mudguard is more substantial in every respect.  at a comparable width the rigid M20 mudguard is 1/2 to 3/4" wider than then B31.  I didn't check the depth, but the M20 is clearly wider.  I have a plunder M20 mudguard (but couldn't get to it to measure it tonight), but it definitely resembles the larger M20 rigid mudguard.  So while a B series mudguard (at least rigid) might be made to fit, it would always look "light" in the frame. 

Best,

G

A belated thanks!

That doesn't sound so bad. But when it comes back it would be a good idea to check that the clearance is now correct, before reassembly. Check the ring gaps too.

I hope that they will treat this job as high priority and get it back to you quickly.

That's not good. What exactly have they done wrong?

I've just heard from the cáfe, who will be closed on the last Sunday because it's Mother's Day. It'll be back to the Super Sausage for March, only. From April it'll be at the cáfe, address above.

Quote from: Rog1 on 23 February, 2025, 18:09:35Our 2nd Wednesday of the month meeting at the Barley Mow, Cosgrove, MK19 7JD, remains the same and starts from 8pm.

Actually, from 7:30 pm.

Quote from: GLENN on 07 March, 2025, 21:14:09Assuming the M and B series plunger mudguards are similar to a M and B series rigid, then I'd say the B series mudguard is quite a bit narrower than the M series.  I can measure the width of both tomorrow if that helps? 

Glenn

Thank you, that would be very helpful.