Thanks again. That photo is just what I need. The plan is to do the same as you with a length of flexible pipe.

Thanks Ian. That makes sense. I'd apreciate it if you could take a look. In the usual course of events does much come out of that breather?

Recently I've replaced the semi home-made battery carrier on the M33 for a replica one from Draganfly. However, during the fitting process I noticed a pipe pointing downward from the base of the oil tank toward the top of the gearbox. I'd not noticed this before. Having consulted the words of wisdom I see this referred to as "pressure release pipe" which makes me think it's a breather. My parts book suggests there should be a rubber pipe fitted to this then a rigid but bent tube leading off somewhere to be clipped to the frame.

My questions are, where does this open pipe exit? Does it still point down? What I intend to do is to pop some flexible pipe onto the bare stub and run it roughly to where it should end up.

It may be that I've found the mysterious intermittent oil leak which I thought was coming from the gearbox. Possibly not.

I don't think it has anything to do with people buying modern retro bikes instead of an old 'un. Apart from there generally being less spare money about I think it's to do with age. I think most people who want an old bike go for something they can relate to. This usually means something from the days of their youth. I've got one too many bikes at the moment. There's no interest in the early 1950s bike's I have but I could sell those I have from the 1970s (although even interest in those is waining). I'm told it's the same in the classic car world at the moment. The up-side is that the old stuff is more affordable for those of us who, like me, like old clunkers.

Thanks Martinh10. I think I've decided to make an alloy spacer to replace the thick gasket material. Yours looks very neat. I reckon the spacer the previous owner fitted behind the engine sprocket was about the same as yours.

Hello everyone. I've decided to resurrect the ancient thread I started because, after all this time, I've finally had a chance to look into this properly. The bike has just stood there all this time gathering a layer of dust.

Having stripped the engine as far as removing the barrel I can confirm that there is no unnecessary end float in the crank shaft and the con rod is nicely central to the barrel opening. It seems that Pete C had the right answer all along. The bike has been fitted with a 4-spring clutch and a spacer used to correct chain alignment.

I've added a spacer of thick gasket material between the primary drive and crank cases and behind the spacer on the footrest bar. A dry run showed this had done the trick so it'll all come apart again soon to be done properly.

Interestingly there was no lock washer behind the cush-drive nut (was tight) or behind the clutch centre nut (was loose but no damage done). Various other felt/cork seals were missing as well.

I've made a peg drive socket to fit the cush-drive nut but can't find any torque settings for it so I'll just do it up gud'n'tite.

Quote from: Phil C on 22 June, 2021, 11:56:13
Thanks John FD. So you use 34" leg just as you would for non-biking jeans?  Do they not ride up your leg and leave a gap between boot and jeans?   Phil

I ordered them as long as I could get. I think they worked out at a little over 36" inside leg. They're a bit long off the bike but not too bad. I bought mine by phoning rather than ordering on line. They were very helpful.

I'm on my second pair of Hood Jeans. The first pair were subjected to an unplanned test of their performance and passed! I'm 6'4" with a 34" inside leg. No comfort issues for me. I got the longest I could and they are great when sat on the bike. I have the K7 jeans with knee and hip armour although you can have them without.

I've spent some time staring at the cush drive arrangement on the bike and perusing all the BSA literature I've got and decided that an engine rebuild is possibly in my future. So far as I can tell, the only way this wear can happen is for more of the drive side crankpin to have emerged from the crank cases because it didn't used to be like this. That said, my worry is that the con-rod won't now be properly lined up in the barrel and will cause issues there next. I suspect it's the spacer idie referred to.

I also can't see any evidence of a lock-washer behind that big cush drive securing nut. Hmm.

It's a shame as I had just got it ready for outings when regulations allow and I won't have space to work on the bike for a while as a friend's bike is currently dismantled in the workshop. I've still got my Guzzis to ride but I'll miss the BSA which is so light in comparison.

I removed the primary chain cover from my M33 plunger today and noticed that the end of the crankshaft has been contacting the case as has the big peg nut that holds the cush drive. Last time the cover was off I changed the cork gasket for a new one which is about 3mm thick. Is this right or should it be more substantial?

I cleaned up the case and stuck some masking tape on the damaged area, ran the bike and checked inside. The tape had been cut by the crankshaft. I've examined the case and it hasn't taken a knock.

Any suggestions as to why this is happening?

Quote from: DAVE BRADY on 27 August, 2020, 13:33:28
Hi John,

Thanks for such  a great photo.  Would you mind telling me the length, width manufacturer please.

Dave.

The trailer was made by Consett trailers who I don't think are in business anymore. Being UK road legal for a bike it is a meter wide which is the limit. It's 1.6m long overall. They do come up for sale now and then.

Quote from: BEEZABRYAN on 27 August, 2020, 23:19:17
what prevents jack knife if you have to brake hard on a bend?

Prayer?

Though having made the facetious comment I must say that I've never heard of a bike/trailer jack knife.

I've not heard of any jack-knifing either. I had dire warnings from those who've never towed that the trailer would push the bikes rear wheel sideways and have me off when braking into a bend but I think that's all tosh as well.

The trailer has swivel hitch so that if the bike is leaned well over (like if you drop it) it doesn't run out of movement.

Quote from: MGI on 28 August, 2020, 06:52:02
The trailer looks sturdy enough to possess an over ride brake, but in any case hard braking on a bend even solo is fraught with difficulty!

In the UK motorcycle trailers aren't allowed overrun brakes. I don't know the reason why.

Quote from: DAVE BRADY on 28 August, 2020, 08:25:46
The wheel and suspension would be the hardest bit and it is this stuck on the back that make it quite long.

My original plan to make a single wheel trailer involved using the leading link front end from a small scooter turned round and welded to a thick pipe but I never got further than a few doodles.

I've been towing a trailer behind my old Guzzi to camping events for the last 5 years. I find it preferable to loading the bike itself as I think the lot handles better. I've towed at up to 80 (on a private road, officer) and not had any handling problems but you need to carefully set up the rig so the trailer hitch points slightly downward. I also load so the heaviest items are toward the front and arrange it so things can't move about. The Guzzi is a heavy machine and this might help the stability. I had intended to build a single wheel trailer but this one came up at such a good price that I changed my plans. The previous owner towed it behind a Panther single.

I don't have any problem with the main stand on my plunger M33. This might be because it has an oversize front wheel. I push the stand down, shove a foot behind it and pull the bike up just using the handlebars. When it's on the main stand the rear wheel is only just clear of the ground but that's not normally a problem. Putting the back wheel on a plank to give you a head start often works but only at home in the garage. I had to do this with one of my heavy old Guzzis until I gained the knack which involves putting left foot on the stand, letting go of the bars and lifting up and backwards using both hands. My M33 doesn't have a side stand and I don't like those clamp-on jobs. I've thought about designing something to go at the front of the frame where the engine plates mount but don't want to just come up with something that bends the frame. I've often wondered if those military stands for rigid M series bikes can be made to work on a plunger.

Having said all that, the bike's currently propped up, as usual, on an old wooden tool box which just happens to be the right size to put under the riders footrest. I also have a wooden prop to put under a footrest if I'm likely to have to park on grass at a show or whatever.

As for starting the bike. I usually roll it off the stand while astride it and kick it over still astride. I am lucky being tall and with no dodgy knees yet.

Quote from: Editor on 03 July, 2020, 12:41:27
...I have been with Real Classic since it's early days and still enjoy it, although of late, it includes more and more retro classics and there seems to have been an overload on Moto Guzzis.

I subscribe to Real Classics and buy any magazine with something to do with my BSA or Moto Guzzis!

The Star is great for me as I'm new to BSAs and the club. Gambalunga from Moto Guzzi Club GB is something else though.

Seems a sensible, cautious approach.

When I hired a car in Malta a good few years ago I was told to remember, "In the UK you drive on the left. In Europe they drive on the right. In Malta we drive in the shade."