8.5 inches from the pivot to the foot.

Jim

Thanks Derek

Other forums have suggested similar recommendations to yours. I'm not sure if anyone has been able to eliminate the strobing on the 6v C11. It will probably require a few hours/$$ in engineering budget to solve this problem, unless you have a recommended capacitor size???

Personally, it doesn't bother me since I don't ride this bike at night and the light is pointing away from me while riding during the day!

On another note, everyone should do a thorough operational check of new  LED lights before they go out on the road, especially with tail light bulbs. I found an LED tail light bulb that had the same level of illumination with tail light on vs brake light + tail light on.

Jim

That is the A10 on the cover of the Haynes Manual!!!!

On my C11 with points and coil ignition, the LED headlight flashes in sync with the engine. It is like a strobe light. I think it is the sudden current draw by the coil that causes the system voltage to momentarily drop and the illumination to diminish.

On my A7 and B33 with magneto ignitions, the LED headlamp bulb gives full constant illumination.

All 3 bikes have 6v systems.

Jim

Thanks Greenfield

This may be a good option.

Jim

Thanks Greenfield

Although it won't filter out dust, it will stop bigger chunks from going in the inlet, which is more than I have now.

Where did you get your gauze filter?

Jim

Thanks Rog

The minimum distance from the rear tip of the threaded carburetor inlet to the front face of the oil tank is about 38mm.

Jim

A very plain 20 weight oil. No fancy anti friction additives. Your clutch doesn't like it.

As for quantity, the oil should be just touching the bottom of the primary chain.

Jim

I have a 1949 plunger frame B33 with a 289 Amal carburetor and I'm trying to install an air filter using the elbow 65-9198 listed in the parts catalog. See the picture below.

The elbow, obtained from EBay, is an aluminum casting. I guess it was hopeful thinking to expect the brittle aluminum flange to squeeze onto the carburetor adapter when I tightened the clamping bolt. It didn't take much to break a chunk out the flange.

Has anyone had success with installing this elbow?

I was thinking my next try is to:
Grind off the bolt lugs,
Cut 3 additional slots in the flange 90 degrees apart
Extend the slots into the elbow body a little,
Grind some material from the inside of the elbow body
Clamp it on with a steel hose clamp around the circumference of the flange.

I am very interested in hearing any successful solutions that people have tried to get an air filter installed on a B33, with or without this elbow.

I have a 1951 C11 (6V coil) with a flashing LED headlamp also. With the engine not running, I turned on the headlamp and the ignition, then opened and closed the points. The headlamp brightened and dimmed each time the points were opened and closed. I saw the same results even with a battery charger connected.

I also have a B50T (12V coil) and the LED headlamp does not flash.

Based on the above, I wonder if the excessive current draw from a 6V coil is causing the LED headlamp to flash.

Rhyatt, when you did the 12V conversion, did you install a 12V coil?

Jim

Hello TF

I have 13,000 miles on my A7 with a reprofiled cam and followers. The reprofiling was done by a shop in the Montreal area.

In your area try Newman Cams. Also google "BSA forum cam reprofiling" for more information.

Jim

Looks good Bigsingle

I have a similar rear cover on one of my bikes and I have found another small but annoying source of leaks is from the threaded through holes at the right side bottom of the inner cover, especially on the oil drain and oil level hole locations. Oil was migrating along the installed outer cover retaining bolts and out the inner (right) side of the inner cover.

I made 2 or 3 short 1/4-20 allen head plugs with fiber washers and installed them on the back side of the inner cover. It wasn't easy with the completely assembled primary but the plugs stopped the small leaks. It may be easier for you to come up with a more elegant solution with the cover removed.

Jim

I googled BSA B33 Frame Dimensions and got a drawing but it doesn't show a side stand lug.

I checked the 1949-1953 Parts Catalog, page 35 and it shows the side stand lug mounted foreward of the rear brake axle boss. According to this information, my bike does not comply with the frame drawing or the parts catalog.

However except for some difficulty to acces the center stand, my side stand, mounted rear of the brake pedal axle boss works great. The back half clamp of the stand was welded or brazed to the frame when I bought the bike. I'm not sure I would trust a stand that was only bolted to the frame.

Jim

Hi Rog

The 2.25 inches is from the center of the brake pedal boss. Maybe there is a frame drawing somewhere that indicates the correct position. I'll have a look.

I do have difficulty getting a toe hold on the double stand and I need to run the front wheel up on a ramp to get the bike onto the double stand. That is another topic...

Jim

Fraz
Here is a photo of the side stand on my 1949 B33 with a plunger frame. It should be the same as your B31.

The rear clamp half is brazed or welded to the frame. The center of the clamp is about 2.25 inches rear if the boss that the brake pedal is mounted to.

Hope this helps.

Jim