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Messages - peterg123

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Twins / Re: A10 oil pump
« on: 09 September, 2019, 21:58:50 »
I had to rebuild a SH pump I got from USA as my 59 A7SS project came without any pump at all. If you intend to refurbish your oil pump the first thing you need at a sheet of FLOAT glass 1/4" minimum thick, slightly shorter than a sheet of emery paper, so you can wrap a sheet on against a flat surface.. This is because float glass (i.e. that used in counter tops) is for weird reasons almost 100% dead true flat. Any glass merchant should be able to cut a piece for you.

Such a sheet will have innumerable uses in restoration, including rubbing down carb flanges and rocker boxes, gearbox casings and more. It stands between you and oil leaks!

You also need maybe a magnifying glass. This oil pump repays VERY CAREFUL attention.

Engineers Blue is recommended highly.

Then you need some 600 or  800 grit good emery paper and maybe a sheet of 1000 grit to boot.

The 67-1389 you pictured is available from Dragonfly, new and cheap.  I will remark of the other  issues. These could be  three

1) Your PUMP FACE where it mates to the crankcase could be scored, pitted and rough. The remedy is using the 600 or emery on the floats glass rubdown plate, a few strokes in the direction, then turn 90 degrees, a few more strokes, then turn again etc.... and with oil on the emery remove and flatten those imperfections. If you don't rotate every say 5 strokes, you could "vee" your pump face and be in real probs.

2) Your pump is BINDING and does not turn freely. This needs to be traced down to whether your 67-1389 is binding in the long nose housing( could be rust or debris/dirt) or the same dirt  and/or rusted/deformed  or problematic oil pump gears.

3) More likely the pump is too LOOSE..there has to be (a) a very good, clean pair of oil pump gears (b) an almost imperceptible clearance between the gears and the end plate 67-1391 and 67-1388 "nose". . First check the steel end plate for scarring, rotation marks and etc. Again the emery paper and float sheet treatment applies.

However, with the pump BODY 67-1382, be very careful. It's Mazak "monkey metal", soft. If you rub down the body on any side  to take up any slack or clearance ( correct is when the pump turns by hand with  very slight stiffness or resistance resistance) without care on your emery sheet, you can end up with BINDING.

With all that I ended up emery glassing one of my gears a minimal amount. In the end I got a pump that when oiled spun with very slight resistance. On startup, it pumped like a Dutch windmill.

Why did I do all this? I have time and I saved about 300 Sterling.

Twins / Re: trying to find a set of primary chain cases
« on: 16 August, 2018, 23:24:51 »
Finding the inner primary on ebay is not too hard and reasonably cheap. The outer is another problem..I had to get  one from Australia. Someone in UK used to make them new..a Goldie specialist. I emailed him a while back, having founf his website, and got no reply. The price was Stg 200. used to do this but is out of stock.

They are a nightmare to obtain at a reasonable price. I gave up bidding on a USA one at $365.

There is a BSA A10 variant of the outer primary for alternator models and that will be rarer still. Only ever saw one on a South African enthusiast's site.

Twins / Re: A7ss crankcase oil seal
« on: 16 August, 2018, 23:14:45 »
However the seal works not on the crank drive shaft, but the distance piece  fitted chamfered side in...if the oil seal is not slush to the crankcase outer but somewhat lower, it will still act on the distance piece...but too far in and the drive side bearing will chew it. Stick to the factory, on my original it's pegged at noon,3,6 &9 by punchmarks, but then I have the original steel backed oil seal still fitted.

Twins / Re: A7ss crankcase oil seal
« on: 16 August, 2018, 23:10:00 »
Fitted flush to the outer of the case in my undisturbed 59A7SS

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