mine is straight too . On another matter how is it you can see the reflection of the nut when it would be hidden by the bracket .

my front tyre is a 350 x 19 i think the rims changed from wm1 to wm2 when the tyre size went to 19 inch . Rear is 410 x 19 so mine must be wm2 rims . They are a spanish alloy rim .

Bought all my bsa db34 oil filter pieces from morgo ,https://www.morgo.co.uk/product-category/morgo-oil-filter-kit/ . They are the smallest you will find and easily hidden .

its still on the dvla register so is out there somewhere . last change of log book is 1979 so someone will have it in there garage .

cant remember which bike i was working on at the time but the amal monobloc was always leaking at the float chamber cover . It turned out the float spindle bush was too long and stopping the cover fully tightening . I even faced off the cover in the lathe as i thought it must have been warped but it still leaked until i realised that the bush was the wrong one . It could also be the float axel is touching the cover and holding it back from fully tightening .

The only reference I have to the A65 with no letters after the numbers is the 1963 star twin . Engine numbers seem to be a very early one .

No need to take the side casing off unless you need to take the drive shaft out , unlikely , you will see from these pictures that the drive shaft cog , driven from the crankshaft , has a notch in it . there is a crew holding that in place and it stays where it is when you take the pump out from the bottom . Theres also a picture of the pump drive that fits into the shaft . As you ca see it just slots in you then turn it till the bolts line up it will only go in one way round . There is a gasket that goes on the face of the pump . no sealant though .

I changed my oil pump when i rebuilt it with pearsons internals , Crank etc , and bought a https://www.absaf.nl/index.php?page=3&product=13 pump as it has more flow . Still wet sumps but only if left for 6 months or so . Whatever you do when refitting dont overtighten as this will deform the pump body .

There's a plate on the bottom of the engine with four nuts holding it on . remove them and take the plate and the mesh off . the oil pump is there . Two bolts hold it to the engine casing . There's four visible the other two hold the pump together . remove the two bolts . I believe they are slightly larger but its no big deal if you get the wrong one . The longer 2 of the four bolts hold it to the engine . once these are out the pump should come down . It is driven by a shaft that has a slot in it and there's a corresponding oblong shaft on the pump that fits into it . 

somehow i find it difficult to keep my mind in positive earth mode . But surely the main harness goes to the switch and your lights come off the switch with separate wiring not shown on your diagram . So your red goes directly to the headlamp earth point and white brown and green brown go to the headlamp switch . From the switch you will take leads to your bulb holders . Remembering that its positive earth .
I have always made my own wiring in the headlight but is this what you are looking for .https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115300958581?chn=ps&_ul=GB&norover=1&mkscid=101&itemid=115300958581&targetid=2274564709393&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1006649&poi=&campaignid=21348983186&mkgroupid=161812505023&rlsatarget=pla-2274564709393&abcId=9429803&merchantid=119090799&geoid=1006649&gad_source=1

Quote from: chrisf-1 on 12 November, 2024, 10:11:56

Quote from: ducati2242 on 12 November, 2024, 08:18:56No help at all on your mikuni but Why . My db500 , totally rebuilt with pearson internals , runs perfectly on an amal gp . Starts first or second kick , ticks over good , and pulls like a train .

I have the original GP for the bike and I spoke with Burlen's about re conditioning it is very worn even from first glance and Burlens priced a replacement that will do the job but is not correct at over a grand and said a correct one is no longer available so that will not be happening

I hit lucky and got mine from a genuine seller on ebay for £360 took a bit of set up and afew different slides  and experimental holes drilled in said slides but i have it almost perfect now . sometimes stalls on tickover but i dont want to try to up the revs from the 800 i have it at now as it may go all wrong .

No help at all on your mikuni but Why . My db500 , totally rebuilt with pearson internals , runs perfectly on an amal gp . Starts first or second kick , ticks over good , and pulls like a train .

Really good write up on valves on the britbike forum .https://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/929282/1

Chrisf . mine is fitted a bit different to yours , but who knows , one of them might be right .

I think they all stand on there tip toes .