Pm sent

I thought I'd have a go at replacing the cylinder base and pushrod tunnel gaskets on my B33 to reduce oil leaks. One of the cylinder through bolts 66-0115 was a bit knackered so I decided to fit new ones to one side. Big mistake. As soon as I started to tighten one of the new bolts, It continued to screw into the head until the shaft hex came to the bottom of the fins. When I'd got it disassembled, I could see that the stop at the bottom of the shaft had come adrift, and fortunately it was sitting on top of the flywheel. I sent it back to Drags for replacement. Before I fitted the new bolts I decided to drill a small hole in the end and fill with weld to prevent the stops coming off again.
As soon as I started to tighten again, one of the stops again came off.
The original BSA bolts had the stop integral to the central shaft. The replacement ones have the stops screwed onto the end and unsurprisingly unscrew themselves as the bolt is screwed into the head.
Has anyone got any suggestions how to fix the stop securely to the end of the bolt so that it works as it should do?

Classic Bike Shop has C12 '56 - '58 rear shocks with centres 289mm. Might be worth giving them a ring.

I found a second hand Renntec carrier, possibly off a Suzuki. I cut the side rails and added new ones to the correct angle and length, plus a cross rail at a carefully measured angle. After a rub down and spray it certainly looks the part. There are literally hundreds of Renntec designs that could surely be adapted for any BSA models.

I think we've drifted from the original topic here, but this is what I've done to restrict the upward movement of the brake pedal. The bracket doesn't need to be super strong as there's little pressure on it. The bolt allows for any adjustment and the rubber prevents metal to metal contact.

Clamp the sidestand to the frame so that when folded up its parallel to the frame and doesn't catch anything. Lower the stand and pack the foot with a scrap of timber until the bike is at a reasonable angle and measure how much you need to lengthen the leg. What I've done on both my B33 and B40 is to cut the leg part way along, thread both ends internally to fit a threaded bar of around 5/16" diameter, make sure the foot is at the correct angle, then weld the joint to make it completely solid. Once the weld has been ground to the correct profile and painted, you'd never know anything has been done.

It's worth taking the plug out after a few tries to see that its not wet and still sparking. If its wet, turn it over a few times with the plug out and wide throttle to clear it out. Mine needs minimum tickling otherwise it floods and wets the plug.
Secondly its worth checking that the pilot circuit is absolutely clear.
Thirdly, all these BSAs need a slightly different routine for starting and you need to learn what's best for yours. There is no chance whatsoever that my B33 will start with the ignition retarded. If I advance it about half way it'll go with one or two kicks, but only with full choke and no throttle.