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Messages - Greenfield

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Singles / Re: B40 rocker feed...
« on: 16 August, 2022, 10:30:07 »
This is what it looks like on my '62 distributor B40.

Singles / Re: Cylinder through bolts
« on: 06 August, 2022, 18:53:21 »
Pm sent

Singles / Re: Cylinder through bolts
« on: 06 August, 2022, 09:56:32 »
Thanks Idie. Having 'put it to bed' and 'slept on it', I still can't see a workable solution. Its obviously material cost vs labour cost. It looks like the stop has an M8 thread and is held by max three threads. I can't risk loctite and pulling it apart yet again and possibly losing the stop in the crankcase. So I'll fettle an old bolt to make it usable, but I'm now short of one because I gave the other the chop to investigate how it was made; making myself a mag gear puller out of the bottom socket. There's bound to be someone with a usable bolt in their scrap box having replaced them with shiny new SS ones. I've no idea who makes the SS ones or how they're constructed but I was trying to keep to original mild steel parts.

Singles / Cylinder through bolts
« on: 05 August, 2022, 13:33:43 »
I thought I'd have a go at replacing the cylinder base and pushrod tunnel gaskets on my B33 to reduce oil leaks. One of the cylinder through bolts 66-0115 was a bit knackered so I decided to fit new ones to one side. Big mistake. As soon as I started to tighten one of the new bolts, It continued to screw into the head until the shaft hex came to the bottom of the fins. When I'd got it disassembled, I could see that the stop at the bottom of the shaft had come adrift, and fortunately it was sitting on top of the flywheel. I sent it back to Drags for replacement. Before I fitted the new bolts I decided to drill a small hole in the end and fill with weld to prevent the stops coming off again.
As soon as I started to tighten again, one of the stops again came off.
The original BSA bolts had the stop integral to the central shaft. The replacement ones have the stops screwed onto the end and unsurprisingly unscrew themselves as the bolt is screwed into the head.
Has anyone got any suggestions how to fix the stop securely to the end of the bolt so that it works as it should do?

Singles / Re: B32 compression
« on: 27 July, 2022, 16:40:59 »
My first thought is to start by checking that both valves are closing.

Singles / Re: C121958 rear suspension units
« on: 27 July, 2022, 16:37:46 »
Classic Bike Shop has C12 '56 - '58 rear shocks with centres 289mm. Might be worth giving them a ring.

Singles / Re: B31/B33 grabrail/rear carrier
« on: 10 July, 2022, 14:30:39 »
Hi Rog, I considered fitting a leg to the lower mudguard bolt as in the old ad, but didn't think it looked very attractive. I fitted the bar across the mudguard instead as the whole carrier looks lighter.
Re rear wheel removal, I did consider this during the design process but haven't had a go since it was fitted. The mudguard still hinges but with the carrier in situ, the rear light will hit the rear of the carrier after about 8cm. The answer would be to either lift the bike to drop the wheel out or undo the two screws from the fixing above the hinge and the whole carrier will then pivot forwards to give full access.

Singles / Re: B31/B33 grabrail/rear carrier
« on: 09 July, 2022, 15:20:27 »
I found a second hand Renntec carrier, possibly off a Suzuki. I cut the side rails and added new ones to the correct angle and length, plus a cross rail at a carefully measured angle. After a rub down and spray it certainly looks the part. There are literally hundreds of Renntec designs that could surely be adapted for any BSA models.

Singles / Re: B31 ignition
« on: 23 May, 2022, 09:39:00 »
Hi Chris
You'll need to go through things step by step to sort this out.
Start by removing the plug and turn it over to check for a spark and use the tickler to check you have petrol getting through.
Every bike likes a different starting procedure and its a matter of finding the correct fuel/air mix with the correctly timed spark. The relationship between timing and mixture seems to be fairly critical with my B33.

Singles / Re: B31 (1954) - how to fit side stand?
« on: 29 April, 2022, 08:22:38 »
I think we've drifted from the original topic here, but this is what I've done to restrict the upward movement of the brake pedal. The bracket doesn't need to be super strong as there's little pressure on it. The bolt allows for any adjustment and the rubber prevents metal to metal contact.

Singles / Re: B31 (1954) - how to fit side stand?
« on: 28 April, 2022, 08:07:52 »
What I forgot to say was that you add one or two nuts to the exposed threaded insert to act as spacers to lengthen the stand and the threaded rod should be a good fit inside the leg. A bit of welding will then prevent it from unscrewing.

Singles / Re: B31 (1954) - how to fit side stand?
« on: 27 April, 2022, 09:23:09 »
Clamp the sidestand to the frame so that when folded up its parallel to the frame and doesn't catch anything. Lower the stand and pack the foot with a scrap of timber until the bike is at a reasonable angle and measure how much you need to lengthen the leg. What I've done on both my B33 and B40 is to cut the leg part way along, thread both ends internally to fit a threaded bar of around 5/16" diameter, make sure the foot is at the correct angle, then weld the joint to make it completely solid. Once the weld has been ground to the correct profile and painted, you'd never know anything has been done.

Singles / Re: B31 (1954) - how to fit side stand?
« on: 27 April, 2022, 07:45:01 »
Hi Chris
The sidestand pics are from my 1950 B33 which hopefully should be similar to yours. When I got the bike the bracket clamping the stand to the frame had been welded to prevent it turning. I also found that when the bike was on the sidestand it was leaning a bit too much so I lengthened it. Its a heavy bike so I tend to use the centre stand only when parked up in the garage.

Singles / Re: B31 starting advice?
« on: 17 April, 2022, 07:48:59 »
It's worth taking the plug out after a few tries to see that its not wet and still sparking. If its wet, turn it over a few times with the plug out and wide throttle to clear it out. Mine needs minimum tickling otherwise it floods and wets the plug.
Secondly its worth checking that the pilot circuit is absolutely clear.
Thirdly, all these BSAs need a slightly different routine for starting and you need to learn what's best for yours. There is no chance whatsoever that my B33 will start with the ignition retarded. If I advance it about half way it'll go with one or two kicks, but only with full choke and no throttle.

Which BSA do you ride? / B33 Plunger
« on: 15 April, 2022, 14:11:43 »
So this is my 1950 B33 plunger which I bought just over a year ago, and is more or less back up and running. It was in quite a state when I got it, and I've not restored it to mint but hopefully one that I can use as a tidy runabout. I'll see how things go over the summer and address issues as they arise.

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