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Messages - Jackson

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1
Twins / Re: Plunger A10 crankshaft oil seal
« on: 30 March, 2018, 11:06:00 »
I think I've sorted it myself now.
While the engine has a 53 number, it's either a '54 engine (roy Bacon says that new models were available fm late in the previous year) or the factory changed the crankshaft sealing mechanism early.

2
Twins / Plunger A10 crankshaft oil seal
« on: 30 March, 2018, 10:41:49 »
I have just had my crankshaft reground and new bearings fitted.
On the sprocket side of the crankshaft roller bearing was an oil seal, set into the crankcase/chain case wall.
I can't find it anywhere in the illustrated parts list or on Draganfly's diagrams. It is locked in by a number of centre pops.
Can anyone help me please? Is it some strange addition or have I got a later engine (BA10 5713) ?
I've just looked at the 1954 service sheet and it is present on that!
Anyway it was destroyed in removal and I need to source a new one.

3
Twins / Re: Paint type
« on: 23 March, 2018, 11:28:11 »
Thanks for the advice, I'll get 3 cans to be on the safe side. and twice as much clear coat.
I have had Classic Car Paints Direct recommended.
Just taken the bits for stripping and blasting.
It'll be about a fortnight before I am into serious filling and sanding  :)

4
Twins / Re: Paint type
« on: 22 March, 2018, 21:08:45 »
The bike is (and I am repainting it to) the standard black and chrome A10 trim.
The frame, fork legs and mudguards seem to have been powder coated and are OK. Tank is chrome and black and in good condition. I donít really like the plastic or satin effect of powder coating.
The rest (fork shrouds, nacelle, oil tank, tool box and chain guard) have been badly hand painted, so I am going to try to strip, and repaint them. I am currently trying to find a vapour or bead blaster to strip them.
Iím not too happy about using 2K so Iíd be better off using a non 2K clear coat as I donít need to worry about the tank.
Do you have any idea about coverage, I donít have a compressor, so I was going to use aerosols?
Adrian

5
Twins / Paint type
« on: 22 March, 2018, 17:05:43 »
I'm repainting my '53 plunger flash black (unusually it seems).
Never done much painting before. Can anyone advise on the best type of paint to use and what a modern equivalent of BSA /007 black enamel is please?
I've found plenty of advice online about Polychromatic Beige and Nutley Blue but information on black is hard to come by.
The RS paints database only works (fair enough) if you are buying the paint from them.
Is it feasible to apply a 2 pack paint or lacquer (aerosol) at home (in the workshop).
Any advice appreciated.
Adrian

6
Twins / Re: Plunger A10 nacelle instruments
« on: 22 March, 2018, 14:25:09 »
I was going to :-
1) Visit my local bead blaster
2) Fill
3) Acid etch primer
4) Grey acrylic primer
5) Couple of coats of spray enamel
6) See if I can persuade a local spray shop to put on some 2 pack petrol resistant lacquer
Does this make sense?
I'm not touching mudguards and forks, they have been powder coated quite well already.
Regards,
 Adrian

7
Twins / Re: Plunger A10 nacelle instruments
« on: 21 March, 2018, 17:33:25 »
Thanks everybody.
They were both not fastened in after all (circlip was missing and tabs on ammeter hadnít been bent over  :))
What gave me real problems was that they were painted in as well as being a tight fit and so were difficult to get out without damaging the nacelle.
Now I can get all my tinware stripped.
Adrian

8
Twins / Re: Plunger A10 nacelle instruments
« on: 19 March, 2018, 20:45:37 »
Thanks very much, both.
Yes the ammeter has tabs, they are just covered in a thick layer of paint and the meter itself is well painted in!
The dial appears to have melted in part so I think it is probably u/s
There doesn't seem to be a circlip on the switch though. It appears to be just two discs of bakelite either side of the nacelle shell.
I'll probably break them both out, just have to be careful with the nacelle.
Thanks again.

9
Twins / Plunger A10 nacelle instruments
« on: 19 March, 2018, 17:58:43 »
I have removed my headlamp nacelle for painting, but am having problems removing the ammeter and light switch. The speedo came off easily being a push fit in a rubber ring.
The ammeter is painted in so I canít see how it is fitted properly. There seem to be some tabs but I canít see if they are part of the nacelle or the ammeter.
The switch has me completely foxed, does it twist off in some way?
If the worst comes to the worst I can destroy them as they will have to be replaced anyway, but Iíd like  to get them off with as little damage as possible.
Any thoughts will be gratefully received.

10
Twins / Re: clutch hub
« on: 04 March, 2018, 17:24:14 »
This wonít help, but I had to destroy the nut on my 6 spring hub. Drilled two holes at the edge of the nut and used a cold chisel. Replacement was only about £3.00 though.

11
Twins / Re: Help Restoring Gold Flash
« on: 04 March, 2018, 15:05:18 »
Iím in the middle of an A10 restoration, though this was just about a runner before I started.
I got strong advice to check the sludge traps, I did this and am very glad. They had never been opened and were full of deposits. I am told that if you use modern oil (with detergents and additives in it), it releases the sludge back into the engine with potentially unpleasant results.
Iím not going to fit wet sumping prevention measures, due to the worry that they will fail or I will forget to turn the valves back on. Canít rely on myself these days 🙂

12
Twins / Re: Help Restoring Gold Flash
« on: 04 March, 2018, 10:53:23 »
BSA Twin Restoration - Roy Bacon.
I find it invaluable.
Itís on Amazon.
Adrian

13
Twins / Re: 71 A65L without standard airbox
« on: 17 February, 2018, 16:55:37 »
This isnít helpful, but Iíd like to ask the same question about a Ď53 plunger A10.
Adrian

14
Twins / Re: A65 sludge trap thread.
« on: 09 February, 2018, 15:07:12 »
One of mine (A10J came out easily. To get the other out I drilled a hole in it and used a good quality screw extractor. Came out nicely then.

15
Twins / Re: Useful A10 valve info.
« on: 22 January, 2018, 18:42:58 »
I'm hoping so, but I've been told that it applies to older valves as well, due to the behaviour of Austenitic steel at high temp (not something I know about though).

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