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Messages - Trev

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1
Twins / Re: Half width front hub queerie
« on: 18 November, 2021, 16:07:05 »
A10 8" half width drum has no fins and is narrower than the A65 which is finned.

2
The Star and Garter / Re: Fibre washers
« on: 14 June, 2021, 13:05:01 »
Personally I find fibre washers next to useless. For sealing purposes I always choose Dowty seals.

3
Twins / A10 Britax rear crash bars
« on: 17 February, 2021, 15:56:55 »
After a lot of searching (years) I have found me a pair of Britax rear crash bars. Has anyone got or know of a source for fitting instructions?  Looking at them it doesn't appear to be to difficult, but one immediate snag I can see is that the top anchorage bracket is to thick to fit between the mudguard cotton reel spacer and the frame. If the spacer is left out then the anchorage bracket is not wide enough. Has anyone fitted Britax rear crash bars, and if you did how did you do it?

4
Twins / Re: RGS Exhaust - Short Siamese Pipe Source
« on: 29 October, 2020, 10:08:39 »
Don't know if he's still in business, but I got mine from Roger Sharman ( Cake Street Classics) it was/is an excellent fit.

5
Twins / Re: Casing polishing
« on: 14 October, 2020, 16:17:20 »
Primary cover will polish up quite well, the timing cover might. BSA timing covers (A10 at least) are not very good castings. it's highly likely you will encounter lots of small occlusions that you cannot polish out. The more you try the deeper they will get. I've done about 5 or 6 and that has been the problem on every one of them. Eventually I did manage to find one that was "all rightish". Anyway start with 400 grit, then 800, 1200, and 2000. Polish with Meguires Metalpolysh it takes a long time to get a decent shine. The best polishing cloth I have found is cut up old jeans. Denim performs far better than  any other material.

6
Quote
In terms of a salary with cost of living rises, forget it, that is all over - for good.
Do you really think so? COE's, board members and the like, will exempt themselves from such indignities. I don't think you will see any company chairmen forgoing their bonuses. As for regarding your BSA as an investment or an asset it is totally missing the point. There is nothing more depressing than when I'm out and about on my bike and someone will inevitably say when looking it over "I bet that's worth a few quid" or something similar. It's value to me is the fun and enjoyment I get out of riding it.

7
Twins / Re: A10 Tank Painting
« on: 16 May, 2020, 11:24:44 »
Had mine done by Lewis Templeton. Excellent job.

8
Twins / Re: 1955 rocket goldstar replica twin
« on: 30 April, 2020, 15:16:38 »
Mike, it all depends on what you are looking for. So, here are a few constructive points. That bike looks O.K. but it's all in the detail. That bike I would catergorize as a "look-a-like" rather than a replica. Nothing wrong with that just so long as you know, and that it is reflected in the price. Taylor Dowe fork crowns are not that u.ncommon they do pop up on ebay quite often. Three things are immediately apparent. The headlamp should be a QD plug in unit. That was standard on all variants weather clubmans or tourer. The headlamp switch should be a 41sa. Both mudguards and stays are Gold Star type not RGS. Rear stays should be arrow head, front mudguard brackets should be welded on not bolted on as these are. Rear hub should be finned. Lots of detail needed for a rep. If you decide to buy negotiate. If you want to know what should be fitted pm me. Superficially it looks O.K. but it is a long way from being an RGS replica

9
Twins / Re: Dynamo leak on RGS-R
« on: 28 February, 2020, 17:09:13 »
Unfortunately I had this problem once many years ago. It was caused by a breathing problem which allowed pressure to build up and force the grease out. The engine was subsequently rebuilt not long after and that cured the problem. First thing I would check though is the cork disc for failure or wear. Despite  what SRM might advocate I have a Manortech DVR2 regulator and belt drive conversion and I have never greased mine. Its not needed. I would take some of what SRM say with a pinch of salt! Bear in mind if they build an engine for you they say the warranty is invalidated if you fit an oil filter. Really!!!!

10
Twins / 8" single sided front brake
« on: 28 February, 2020, 16:57:14 »
I have an A65 8" single sided front brake fitted to my A10. I want to (if possible) fit floating brake shoes. Does anyone know if such shoes are available and if so what the number(s) are? It occurs to me that I will also need to replace the round pivot pin  pin with a flat pin to suit the floating shoes, does anyone know the part number for that item?

11
Which BSA do you ride? / Re: 1962 Bsa rocket gold star Rep
« on: 30 October, 2019, 09:36:03 »
As you are into detail, the headlamp needs to be converted to the QD type. The plug and socket for doing this are available, and the headlamp switch and plate need changing too. Switches are widely available, but the plate is difficult to find. I converted mine it is not difficult to do (apart from finding the plate) lovely bike you have got there.

12
Twins / Re: A10 convertion to 12v negative earth
« on: 16 July, 2019, 09:11:23 »
Johnstone, the only alterations that you will need to make to the wiring will be: 1) Reverse the battery terminal leads, and 2) reverse the ammeter connections. The dynamo is re-polarised by flashing. This done with the green lead that connects the dynamo to the regulator (F) terminal. Disconnect the green lead from the regulator and dab it on the battery positive terminal a couple of times. You should see a little spark when you do that. Reconnect green lead to (F) terminal on regulator. That's it job done. The DVR2 when you order will need to be specified as to which polarity you require. It comes with full fitting instructions, and the unit itself is marked clearly showing the correct connections.

13
Twins / Re: A10 convertion to 12v negative earth
« on: 15 July, 2019, 15:42:42 »
Quote
I am considering converting my 1958 A10 to 12v negative earth electrics. Is this likely to be an expensive job and what will it involve? Hope the members can help and await your answers in anticipation.
It's a relatively inexpensive thing to do. You will need an electronic voltage regulator. I would strongly recommend the DVR2. Others are available but this one is generally accepted by most people as being the preferred option. The 6v horn should be OK on 12v because it gets very little use. Ammeter will be OK that just leaves battery and bulbs. I use two 6v Cyclons in series. They fit perfectly into the period dummy battery battery cases that you see widely advertised. Not absolutely vital but a dynamo belt drive kit speeds up the dynamo a bit so that the charge characteristics for 12v operation are the same as for 6v. If you convert to LED lamps that will not be so crucial. I have all LED lamps fitted. Headlamp, pilot, speedo, rev counter, and stop and tail. That's about it really. Negative earth is the best option because some lamps are only available in negative earth, although dual neg/pos lamps have started to appear on the market of late. As an aside Cyclon batteries are fit and forget. They require no maintenance even over winter. Simply remove the fuse and they will hold their charge with no problems. Other advantages of negative earth are that the circuit is more efficient because 12v draws less current than 6v, and you can if you so wish charge your phone, and operate a sat nav. Try not to use an H4 BPF headlamp bulb (an E3L can handle it) but LED lamps demand far less current and as such it is far less stress on the battery and dynamo.

14
The Star and Garter / Re: What do you do?
« on: 06 July, 2019, 21:27:31 »
Quote
what about a electric start conversion?,just a thought
I did consider that option a few years ago. I placed a firm order but I got mucked about so much that I gave up on the idea.

15
The Star and Garter / What do you do?
« on: 06 July, 2019, 16:12:48 »
I own an RGS and because I am a bit of a short arse I have difficulty staring it sometimes because it is not always that easy to give it a lusty kick. If there is a handy kerb then I normally don't have a problem. If there is no handy kerb starting is a bit iffy because I have to hop up to give it a good kick and then the bike becomes unstable. To compound matters I don't have a centre stand fitted, but even if I did it is bad practice to use a centre stand for starting, and I would never use the side stand for this purpose. Trouble is the RGS like the later A10 has a fairly high seat which together with high comp pistons makes things worse. Any one else have similar problems, and if so how do you cope?

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