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Messages - MALCOLM.JOHNSON

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 5
1
Twins / Re: A10 swingarm refitting
« on: 30 March, 2020, 17:13:38 »
Have you fit new s/a bushes, are they fully home? (they do protrude beyond the s/a ends slightly). If you are using the original bushes, I am afraid that paint removal is what you need to do. If your swinging arm fitted before painting, then the paint/powder coat has taken up the clearances. Just gently clean off the s/a bush inner tube ends and the corresponding area on the frame. Fit the s/a and loosely fit the spindle after smearing lightly in copper grease to aid future removal. Take a small brush with your paint and work in some into the contact area if you wish. Fit the shocks and then finally tighten the s/a spindle nut. You should not experience any rust problems. It is a very unseen area anyway.

2
Singles / Re: BSA WM20 chain
« on: 23 November, 2019, 14:53:10 »
According to Roy Bacon`s book it quotes :-  range 1945-63 0.625 x 0.4 x 0.255 inch. 94 - 98 links.

3
The Star and Garter / Re: Engine rebuildes
« on: 17 September, 2019, 12:27:52 »
" So I quit doing it except for very good friends. Now???"  It is surprising just how many friends you can accumulate in life, if you are skilled in something that is normally expensive to do! :(

4
The Star and Garter / Re: Grease nipples
« on: 10 September, 2019, 14:28:34 »
Julian`s idea is best. But half fill the domed nut with grease of your choice and screw it on - hydraulics will push the grease through to where it is needed(might need to repeat once or twice). Hence a grease gun is not needed AND dirt is kept out. Simples!

5
Twins / Re: A10 engine oil.
« on: 11 August, 2019, 17:24:45 »
I would go along with much of what has been said, but.....I would add that you put a detergent oil in a dirty (internally) engine at your peril. Doing just that nearly cost my pal a lot of money. The dirt clogged the return side of his A10 very badly and the engine had to be fully stripped and thoroughly cleaned. If you have rebuilt an A10 engine including the crankshaft sludge trap and you can eat your dinner out off it, by all means use a detergent oil. If it cannot be described as immaculate inside, then I would use an in line filter too.

6
Twins / Re: a10 plunger clutch play
« on: 08 August, 2019, 21:33:29 »
I had a similar problem which was cured by carefully examining the two half round abutment pieces ( 67-3251 )on the gearbox mainshaft. I noticed that when put together as they might be on the shaft, they were not EXACTLY the same, but rotate one 180 degrees and they became a perfect match. Assemble the clutch again with the pieces matched like that and it was problem solved. When assembled unmatched it held the bearing thrust washer ( 67-3276,77,78 ) slightly skewed. Note this only applies to plunger models, not swinging arm models. I presume the parts were originally made as a complete ring and then cut in half? Unless both faces are the same a slight mismatch can easily occur.

7
Singles / Re: B31 petrol tank
« on: 06 May, 2019, 21:50:00 »
I have used some Indian stuff including a couple of fuel tanks, in the past. Indian parts are very cheap if you look around, but to be fair the quality is variable. Fuel tanks obviously need to be fuel tight and thankfully the ones I have used were, but there are cases when that has not been the case. The other is the positioning of threaded positions for knee pads and tank badges and these and mounting lugs and holes can, in both my experiences be incorrect. Being unpainted I was able to sort these problems. I would not buy an Indian fuel tank that is already chromed or painted unless supplied by a UK dealer (more expensive), so that it can be easily returned. So my advice is (a) drive a hard bargain when buying direct from India and (b) only buy a fuel tank in primer so you can rectify any problems before chroming/painting and if you are unable to complete repairs yourself, factor in a cost to cover those possibilities. The tank shapes are in my experience pretty good, but Indian made components can be let down by quality of finish. Transport times and costs are excellent.

8
Singles / Re: B31 Front Wheel
« on: 11 April, 2019, 14:16:31 »
Just had a further thought, has the brake plate been powder coated as well? Sometimes too much coating could lock the plate to the drum?

9
Singles / Re: B31 Front Wheel
« on: 11 April, 2019, 14:13:39 »
Just out of diagnostic interest.... can you replace the brake plate with a washer or similar of about the same thickness and tighten up the nuts. Does the hollow bearing carrier lock up now without the brake plate in place? Yes - must be the bearing set up, in which case check bearings are seating fully in the hub.... No - must be brake plate location in relation to the drum, in which case suggests the o/s bearing abutment washer is missing. Finally tighten the nuts very gradually and see if you can locate, what is locking against what. 

10
Singles / Re: B31 Front Wheel
« on: 10 April, 2019, 20:51:51 »
Just adding to my reply..... I think you must be referring to the hollow bearing sleeve that the spindle passes through. Have you removed and/or renewed the bearings?

11
Singles / Re: B31 Front Wheel
« on: 10 April, 2019, 20:42:19 »
My B31 plunger and all others that I have seen use the same spindle assembly as per the 212a sheet. What spindle nuts are you referring to? The only one is the pinch bolt on the n/s fork leg bottom. Once you have screwed in the spindle to a stop (do not over-tighten), nip up the pinch bolt. Are you locating the brake plate in the o/s fork leg correctly (round button on brake plate into a similar recess in o/s fork leg)?

12
The Star and Garter / Re: Losing bits
« on: 03 April, 2019, 19:22:14 »
Trouble is it only gets worse. My wifes most common greeting now is "What have you lost now?"

13
Pre War / Re: Mid 1930s models front mudguard details
« on: 27 March, 2019, 10:35:35 »
Period adverts.

14
Pre War / Re: Mid 1930s models front mudguard details
« on: 27 March, 2019, 10:32:25 »
Found this picture originally off Ebay of a pretty original looking 1934 Blue Star. Makes me wonder if mine is correct?

15
Pre War / Re: Mid 1930s models front mudguard details
« on: 26 March, 2019, 20:29:02 »
My 1932 Blue Star is like your 2nd picture, with no change in radius. a period drawing I have also confirms that.

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