Prepared my bike for winter storage, fuel drained and battery wired up to optimate charger. Didn't bargain for the oil tank draining down into the sump and then the garage floor.
Made the decision to fix it for good and fitted a valve in the feed line from these guys: https://www.themagnetoguys.co.uk/oil-tap-with-cut-out-switch
Fitted the valve and wired the switch into the ignition circuit and all's well.
Can't accidentally fire the bike up with the valve shut.

Just wondered if anyone else has had problems with the valve lifting mechanism.
I have owned my B44 for about a year now and I thought it should be easier to ease the piston over T.D.C than it was.
I removed the rocker box inspection cover and couldn't see any sign of the rocker arm moving when I operated the lever.
Off came the petrol tank for a proper look. The first thing I noticed was the return spring was all scrunched up, so I dismantled the adjuster and cable. The spring wasn't slipping over the adjuster and was getting crushed up, I fixed this problem and then checked the actuating arm position as per RR's instructions and all was as it should be, when the arm was pointing straight up it was kissing the rocker arm.
Great!
I reassembled it all and set about adjusting the cable. I adjusted and adjusted until I ran out of adjustment and I still wasn't getting the rocker arm to move.
So I thought, has the cable stretched or is the actuating cam worn?
I wasn't removing the rocker box to find out, so I would have to fix things another way.
Then I noticed another potential problem, looking from the timing side, the arm couldn't travel from 12.00 o'clock to 11.00 o'clock because it fouled the head steady bolt, even though the head of this bolt has a slimmed down head.
So, I decided to reposition the actuating arm, I removed it from its splines and set it at about 3 minutes past 12 looking from the timing side.
After everything was reassembled, it adjusted up just fine and now it's like turning over a sewing machine compared to the previous compressor.
Whether parts have worn or stretched over the years I cannot say but all's fine now.

Hi,
I want to replace the front mudguard bolts on my B44, these are the 1/4" cei bolts that attach the mudguard to the stays.
I need to know if they are normal zinc plated bolts or whether they are chrome plated with a slightly radiused head.
Any help would be gratefully received.
Andy

The forks on my Victor Special are the pinch bolt type and are fitted with damper tubes which are held in place with an Allan head bolt.
One leg has been leaking via the damper bolt so I removed it to see what the problem was.
The parts manual shows an aluminium washer under the bolt head which was missing. I ordered a couple of replacements, but they didn't fit.
The outer diameter was too large so they wouldn't fit in the recess in the bottom of the fork tube.
I found some nylon washers that would fit so I thought I would give them a try. When fitted I began to refit the front wheel but I couldn't get the wheel spindle past the damper bolt.
On closer inspection I could feel the head of the bolt very slightly proud of the recess in the bottom of the fork tube.
It turns out that there is insufficient depth in the recess to allow the fitting of any kind of washer no matter how thin.
As a stop gap measure I have applied a couple of wraps of PTFE tape under the head of the bolt and it appears to have worked so far.
I can only think of attempting to reduce the depth of the bolt head slightly to allow a soft washer to be fitted as a permanent fix.
Liquid thread sealant is no use as the fork tubes aren't threaded, the bolts screw into the ends of the damper tubes inside the fork tubes.
Has anyone else had a similar problem and how did you fix it?