so i'm deciding on the decal/sticker for the side panels.

not sure what is ott but the bsa decal matches the ones on the tank and that keeps the theme but...

the rifles seem to be popular

both might be too much

what do we (not the royal) think chaps?

would putting a spacer, probably 3/8" maybe 1/2", beneath the bottom yoke on the forks affect anything other than increasing the spring tension.

told you it was a dumb question

this is a LH side panel that came with my A65 when i bought it.

it looks like it may have neen cut down but i'm not sure (its been done quite well if it has)

the hole in it marries up to the 'U' bracket just behind the battery. there is a mounting on the bottom front and maybe there used to be a bracket at the top front but there is just the remains of two rivety type things left.
the bottom bracet almost aligns to the forward battery tray retaining bolt but not quite (it will bit its slightly not quite. maybe a 1/4" too far back)

it fits very nicely to the shape of the frame which makes me think its for that frame.
the panels i've seen (good old fleabay) are not the same. they are like my missus...more curvy...much more curvy (but thats for a completely different forum). theres no 'ridge' around the top either.

anybody identify it? anybody got a RH one they want to shift on.

i've had an idea for using them but a pair would be needed

my settings were changed but not by me.
i had a huge wodge of emails filling my inbox all from bsaoc notifying me of goodness knows what.

i did not go into my settings and checked ANYTHING. NOTHING  changed by me

did forum moderators do it or is it a dodgy 3rd party that did it?

thanks

i was aiming to get the monster up and running for yesterday but that didnt happen....but only just

went out this morning and put a drop of oil in her then a drop of petrol but only a drop.
open the petrol tap then came back in for brekkie. let her soak.

a bowl of porridge and 2 cups of coffee later i changed into my special 'kicking it over' boots and got the big hammer ready in case of any naughtiness.
i was ready

a quick tickle and wooomph...nothing...hhhhm!! i decided to make allowances for first kick so tried again. this time with the ignition on

KABLAM!! THWACK!! BUMMAROONEY!! nothing

this is going to be difficult i thought. did the old trick of taking off the air filter and choking it with a bit of rag, a few kicks without the ignition on then replaced air filter and went again

VERRROOOM!! SHAKE RATTLE AND ROLL. bit heavy in the shaking and rattling department but it ran and kept running. had to twiddle with the air a bit but it ran and ran nice. the carb needs a bit more tweaking but it feels not far off.

so close and yet so far.
i didnt take her out for a run as starting showed up a bit of an oil leak where i obviously didnt tighten the hose up enough. went to get a big long screwdriver but unfortunately someone must have hit the plastic handle with a big hammer. wonder who that was?

so i need a working ignition switch (if anyones got one spare i'd be interested). a screwdriver as a key isnt becoming a lady of her standing.
the brake light switch needs to be looked at and that oil pipe needs tightening. not too bad

whats the best oil to put in the a65?

what are the fork diameters and the spring diameters? just a little idea ive had. might be a good one might be a bad one. probably a stoopid one

so i bought paid for and painted a a65 oil tank.

then when i came to swap it the other day , surprise surprise ir had an extra lttle hidden pipe (not really i just didnt see it)

its the 'T' pipe as in the picture. comes from/goes to the fitting on the back of the cylinder head.

needless to say the new one hasnt got it .

its just a pipe connected to the pipe as it enters the oil tank.

no problem i thought i just need a brass 'T' piece and splice it in. which i did and very neat it looks too

externally everything is connected back up as taken apart albeit with a little modification.

then i got thinking (unusual for me) are the internals the same? so thats my question is are the internals the same?

so yesterday i swapped oil tanks. had to take the back wheel out .

did it, no issues as far as i was aware. put everything back together, no issues or as i thought.
didnt check anything last night cause i'd had enough by then.

so this morning just before setting about the exhaust system, i looked round my handy work and everything was where it should have been.

then i spun the wheeel and click click click. the faster i spun the wheel the faster the clicks.

wasnt the chain as i split it and removed it so i didnt disturd the chain adjuster setting. couldnt see anything interfering with anything.

took the wheel out again and put it back in and still that clicking.

did you ever, when you were kids peg a playing card to your bike frame so that when you were riding it it made a clickety click noise? well thats the noise its making.

the wheel seems a little hesitant so spin freely

any ideas or what didnt i do/check for?

i seem to be aking dumb questiuns on a daily basis but if you're not sure just ask.

so i'm intending to start putting things together this weekend. think ive got it sussed with a lot of advice but theres just one more thing i'd forgotten about.

theres a 2 into 1 exhaust on the bike but its loose (to my mind) in the heads. theres no gaskets shown in the drawings and i've been advised that exhaust cement/paste shouldn't be used but no reason why

the joint in the exhaust down by the right engine mount looks like theres just a clamp to hold the two bits tightly

what is the recommended way of making them airtight? or doesn't it matter

now that i have fitted a main stand and its working i can get on and put things back together;
i have made a cover for the 'toolbox' and have an oil tank thats been painted

i wanted the main stand there as i dont like leaving bikes on under frame lifts. no reason just dont.
the rear wheel needs to come out along with the muddie to swap the oil tank. the one that came with it left a little to be desired. be able to fit the 'toolbox' at the same time.

i've made a tiddly cover for the battery side. it will mount just behind the battery - a 12 volt thingy to go with the new (not to me) boyer.
got another carb guaranteed to be the dogs danglies and a 3" turn out silencer .

then its that dreaded start. the guy that i got it off regularly (apparently) rode it round his yard. why should i disbelieve him?

is there a trick to this?
got evrtything ready. laid the bits out and thought 'no problem'

2 hours later i have a headache and have a partially assembled centrestand.
it took  20 minutes to get to the point of lining up the  second pair of holes and sliding the shaft through.
not a flippin'  cats chance.
i wiggled and waggled, threatened it ith the BIG hammer,smiled sweatly and pleaded (i'm a miserable pleader) but no way jose was it going to go.

does it need someone on the other side to tap whilst i wiggle?

i am thinking of putting a good chamfer on the shaft to get it started. allowing the shaft to poke through the hole into the frame and in the stand a little. that would stop it moving, giving me a chance to go to the other side an give it a gentle tap home.

everything is right and will assemble  once this little hold up is sorted.
it will have to be tomorrow now. my patience has been sorely tried

tank is finall ready to fit

made a set of bars this morning. made to fit my arms. still need a bit of tweeking but you get the jist

are 5/16 bscy countersunk bolts availible anywhere? i just need 4 1 1/4 long

ok so i'm fiddling with a '62 a65 star.

does an a7/10 top yoke fit on it?

i cant login to the home page only this one. just get the address palmatuning.co.uk and 'server not found'. ??. WOSSUP?

is it a secret that ive not been let in on?
twice now i have ordered things by part number only to find the theads are different to mine.

is it that most stuff is indian and they are taking the mickey or is it just something i dont know.

i have a '62 a65 and i order stuff supposedly by part number and its different. first was a screw in oil cap then it was a replacement for the top nut/cap as i have done away with the steering damper. neither fitted.

whats the secret?

anybody know what size the mounting bolt threads are? they look 3/16" but are they bscy unc or what?

stoopid question.
so my speedo is showing its age. in a previous life it suffered a catastrophic cut to the outer bezel so it has sprung out and screw back on and stay.

speedo body is 80 ish mm
the glass is 75 / 76 ish mm
the inner ring has an O.D. of around 78 / 79 ish mm
the outer cut bezel is approx 85mm taking into account the cut

ALL MEASUREMENTS WERE TAKEN IN THE DARK WITHOUT READING GLASSES SO ERRORS AND OMMISIONS WILL BE TAKEN INTO CONSIDERATION

so heres where i get dizzy
there seems to be 2 sizes ...80mm and 85mm

is the measurement i need the bezel O.D. (85mm)  or the body diameter (80mm) when i get a replacement?

anybody know if i can be done? or what the difference between the two are? cheers