Hi all, I finally got my BSA B40 on the road, so thought I would give it a trip around the lanes.
Above a certain revs, it sounded as if the crankshaft was leaving the engine.   So when I got back after the 5 mile round trip, I inspected the engine mountain bolts... They were tight.   

So I looked to see if it had a cylinder head steady... it doesn't, but noticed the tank was touching the 4 head bolts.  I then adjusted the single tank mounting bolt to give 1/4 inch clearance to these bolts, and took it for another spin.   This time the rumbling was not so great, but still there.

Back at the garage I noticed the centre bolt had a large washer under the nut, which was touching the metal of the tank.  So I repositioned it to only bear on the rubber washer.   I hope this fixes the crankshaft noises, but have not yet tried it down the road.

Will keep you informed of any cure.

I have a 1950 C11, and was inspecting the primary chaincase, and found the nut holding the cush drive was a bit loose.   I tightened it up by punching on the castlations, but could not find any way of locking that nut in position.   
Short of putting a blob of weld on it, is there a better way of securing it..?

I was just looking for some information on local Chrome Platters, and came across a notification that from this year no Chrome parts are allowed on new cars.   This ban is because the chroming process releases very toxic carcenogenic pollutants.
So if you have any parts that could do with re-plating, get it done sooner rather than later, as a total ban on chrome is a possibility.

Hi All, sorry to post this here, cos it's for a 1926 Humber 350. 

Does anyone know how to glue clutch friction cork onto the clutch plates.
After standing all winter my clutch pack has frozen, and in removing the plates, some of the cork stayed on the wrong plate.   So I just want to re-glue it onto the right side....  It seems that rust was a better adhesive than the glue on the opposite friction plate.

Hi Guys, I have spent most of my adult life doing competition events; Trials, Motocross, Grass-Track, Hillclimbs etc. and did at one time have an ACU National Roadrace license.   All the events I attended required a van to transport the machines.   
So now, in my 70s, I thought I would join the VMCC to do some of their events, only to see that you only seem to hold camping events...  Why is this..?
Can't the organisers produce a calendar of sporting events, that involve riding the bikes around the countryside, instead of sitting in soaking wet tents, cooking up sausage and beans..?

Hi Guys, I have a 1925 BSA Flat Tanker, which has a brass AMAC carb.   I was out riding the local lanes and had to stop for a tractor blocking the lane.   When I tried restarting, it wouldn't.   The carb felt really hot, so it could have been a vapour lock problem.
Would it be considered Ok for me to change to an AMAL GP carb, which has a fibre spacer for the stub mount..?   Or should I keep the original (needle-less.) AMAC..?

Hi Guys, I just found that my C11 clutch slips when I try kick starting.   The compression does not leak away, so I cannot force the engine over TDC.   The original crankcase oil was about a pint of very thick black oil, which I replaced by 1/3 pint of 10/30.  The clutch cable is loose so no problems there.   Is there an easy solution..?   
I find it strange that there is only one friction plate in the clutch pack, could I add more, as there is space on the basket..?