My A65 Lightning fires up from cold, comes off choke quickly and idles nicely and will rev up cleanly when blipping the throttle.  Once out on the road the engine does not seem to want to pull under load.  The best way to describe it is as if it is trying pull away in too high a gear.  The 'box selects correctly (on main stand with wheel free to rotate), new Wassell electronic ign system incl coil, leads and plugs.  Timing set statically to the A mark on the rotor with the piston at 34 degrees or 7.7343mm BTDC.  Checked using dial gauge through the plug hole and a timing disc with both readings corresponding. Valve clearances correct (new valves & seats), new liners and pistons (std bore) and new complete clutch assembly.  New carbs (u/sonically cleaned and blown through on the airline umpteen times). They have the blanking plug mod allowing the pilot screw bore to be blown through and checked as clear. Pilot screws set to 1 1/2 turns out, slides lift together and clear the bores, choke slides working correctly. In line fuel filters on each carb feed, new petrol tank and fresh petrol as well as new fuel taps.  Feels like a fueling issue to me and thought the tank vent may be blocked but have same problem when running the bike with the filler cap open. There's a new cam in there and the bottom end was built up by T&L Engineering with a re-conditioned crank. Fresh battery (Motobatt) and the circuit is charging reading 14.5 VDC across the terminals with the motor running.  As you can imagine I've run out of ideas as well as patience! My wallet's a little empty too!  Does anyone have any idea as to what I've missed or what could be causing the problems?  I would really like to get the bike running and get some miles on it this summer.  .

Out on a ride recently I noticed a wet patch my trousers in the area of the inner thigh.  Mmmm. I'm sure that last rather tight right hander wasn't all that scary was it?  Then I noticed the distinct aroma of petrol!  The tank had developed a leak at the lower right corner.  Not enough for petrol to obviously drip but sufficient to wet the tank and hence the wet trouser problem!  Have drained the tank and inspected with an endoscope thingy and that corner does seem to have some corrosion but the rest of the inside is good solid steel.  I'm reluctant to bin the tank as it's otherwise sound. As it's not long been repainted I'd like to try and repair it with minimal damage to the paintwork. I'd thought of cleaning it out, treating with a proprietary de-rusting solution and then coating with something like flow liner.  Many years ago I had a similar leaky tank (Ducati Darmah) repaired by lead soldering which lasted at least 15 years, until I sold the bike (mistake!). Is lead soldering feasible as a DIY job? Any thoughts on how best to proceed?  Recommendations for de-rusting solutions/tank liners, contacts who could do the lead soldering or any alternative methods or advice would be gratefully appreciated.   By the way, I drained the tank out by syphoning.  Is it just me or does modern 'petrol' just not taste the same as the good old fashioned leaded stuff used to?  Perhaps a little more tonic with it?  Rob

Will hopefully be starting the build of my second A65 motor before too long and thought that an engine stand will make life a bit easier.  Have looked at a few on line but these seem to be limited to 30kg max weight, Sealey MES01 for example.  With the A65 motors weighing around 62kg when built up can anyone recommend a suitable stand?  Thanks.  Rob

Having completed the recent restoration of my 1962 A65 I'm now looking at the huge pile of parts that came with it to see if there's another viable bike there. Ive got  a decent tank, frame, wheel hubs but the biggest concern is the state of the various rusty/knackered engine parts. From recent experience it will cost a small fortune to build back into a reliable power unit. I had at first thought of giving up on the idea of a second build and selling everything on.  However, perhaps I could use a more modern engine and build up a hybrid as the next project.  I want to stick to a 650cc air-cooled, carburettor, vertical twin if at all possible. Initially looking at a more modern (i.e. oil tight, more powerful) lump. Yamaha XS650 or early Chenai Royal Enfield interceptor units?  Concerned about the fit, particularly the height as these are overhead cam, wet sump designs which are likely to be taller than a BSA unit.  Has anyone in the club been down a similar route in the past and could offer some guidance?  Or will I be banished for thinking such heretic thoughts???  Rob

Have now completed the build of my A65. Originally a 1962 Star but at some point in its history fitted with a twin carb (Lightning) head.  Rebuild has been comprehensive, including electronic ignition.  With new carbs fitted and following the cold start sequence found here in the clubs posts it fires first kick from cold every time (really!!) then ticks over and revs nicely.  All good.  Only problem is I can't get it fire up with a warm/hot engine. With a warm engine it's fuel on, no choke, no tickling, part throttle, ignition on.  Take it just past TDC, a hefty swing. Nothing, no matter how many times I try.  Have tried many combinations of throttle/choke/tickling but no joy. Once the engine has cooled, starts first kick. Reluctant to take it out for a run in case it stalls and I can't start it again. Does anyone have a technique I can try or where I can buy some magic dust from?  Thanks. Rob

Now the bike is running I have an issue with charging.  The stator that came with the bike had exposed wires as they entered the resin outer of the windings.  i.e.the insulation failed.  I tried to repair this but obviously didn't!!  With lights on the bike will run for about 30 mins before beginning to misfire as I limped home.  Electronic ignition systems don't tolerate low supply voltages as well as points do so I guess this was was the problem. Makes sense to me as the ammeter showed a continuous drain of about 4Amps and there's a 9 Ah battery fitted. Getting it going again the voltage at the battery isn't a steady 14Vdc but flickers on the multimeter reading so i suspect the output of the alternator is dodgy.  There is a new rectifier, regulator fitted.  So I'll need to buy a new stator. The original is a single phase item.  Would it be worth upgrading to the later 3 phase (with suitable rect/reg unit) or should I just stick with the single phase set up?  Are modern reg/rect generic for both permanent magnet and self exciting type rotors or do I need a type specific one?   Sorry, seem to have written an essay again!  Rob

A65 rebuild is all but finished now apart from a few details and whatever snags the initial runs throw up.  As I'm now venturing out onto the road I'd like to confirm what tyre pressures I should be running.  The Haynes manual states 21psi for the front and 22 psi for the rear which seems a little on the low side to me compared with other similar sized bikes I have.  The BSA has Avon Roadrider Mk II tyres fitted.  Rear size is 100/90-19 and the front  is 90/90-18.  The original front wheel dia should be 19" but the bike came with nice Boranni rims with an 18" on the front so I've stayed with this on the re-build.  What pressures do other folks use on their A65's?

Hi Everyone.  I'm now totally at my wits end trying, and failing to get my newly rebuilt A65 to fire.  There is nothing, no cough, stutter or spit back. The ONLY thing I can think of now is perhaps the cam timing may be a tooth out?  The setting mark alignment diagrams seem open to a certain amount of interpretation. I'm open to any suggestions as to what might be wrong, no matter how left field it may be. I'm not looking forward to having to strip the RH side down to check the cam timing again before I've exhausted all other possible options. Here's what I've done so far (machining work by T&L Engineering) :
Barrels fitted with new liners, standard sized pistons, new rings. Crankshaft rebuilt, balanced plus pistons. New camshaft.  Crankcase bearings replaced throughout, end floats set. Cam timing set as per manual (see picture).
Head - new seats, guides, valves, springs.  Valves lapped, gaps set to inlet 0.008", exhaust 0.010".
Electronic ignition - Wassel.  Set to 34 degrees /0.3045" BTD.  Plugs NGK B7ES, new NGK caps. Gaps set .023".  Spark at plugs (resting on head fins). Spark with plugs fitted, tested with Sealey in line spark tester.  Battery new and fully charged. New twin output coil (as recommended by Wassel instructions)
Compression 110psi both sides (6 swings on kick start).
Carbs - Pair Amal 930.  Mains 190, Pilot jet screw 1.25 turns out. Carb rebuild kit fitted. Repeated ultrasonic cleaning and compressed air blow throughs. Fuel flows with tickler pushed in.  Checked floats move freely, not snagging on float bowl gasket. Tried easy start squirted into chokes, neat petrol into bores via plug holes.  Nothing.
Switch on, full choke, ease past TDC, swing kick start. Nothing, nada.  Not a cough, splutter or spit back. It's doing wonders for my fitness though!!!!!
In desperation.  Rob

Hi Everyone.  The A65 project inches ever nearer first fire up but there's a blocked carb problem which I'm sorting. However, when turning the engine on the kickstart (without firing due to the carb problem) I notice that the ammeter shows a negative current reading of about 4 Amps. I would have thought that as the alternator spins I should get a positive readout.  When this happens only the ignition circuit is live, lights, brake light and indicators all being off.  I believe the ammeter is wired correctly as it shows current drain with the lights and or indicators on (engine not running).  I've fitted a 'modern' rectifier/regulator which is wired as per the circuit diagram in the instructions.  BTW the bike is wired -ve earth.  So why does the ammeter show a current draw when kickstarting?  Would appreciate any advice/comments on this.  Rob

The progress on the A65 restoration continues but I've now hit ,yet another, brick wall.  I cannot get the ignition system to spark.  Stripping the motor originally I found a Boyer Bransden ignition fitted along with a single, twin outlet coil.  Checking with the multimeter the coil was toast and the rest of the system looked old along with dodgy connectors.  The original points and adv/ret unit were in the box of bits that came with the bike but had been stored in a damp shed and were corroded to hell.  Thought best to fit a new electronic system as I've had much success with these in the past. It's a Wassel product which was wired up as per the diagram in the photo.  I have checked the continuity of every connector, ensured there's 12+ volts at each connector and that all earths all ground correctly back to battery as you can see by my annotations.  The battery is new and fully charged.  Cranking the motor via the kickstart and the plugs (NGK B7ES) stubbonly refuse to spark.  I've tried alternative plugs and caps to eliminate these as culprits. They are earthed against the cylinder head and a continuity check shows a good ground connection to frame and back to battery.  The coil resistance checks are good.  Low tension 3.5 Ohms, HT 11.8 kOhms. The resistance across the sensor coils on the end of the crank closely match the spec given in the manual at 135 Ohms so they look OK.  I've refitted the connectors too which is why there is insulation temporarily missing in the photo. My local BSA parts chap, Nigel Wynne (Classic Motorcycle Spares) has loaned me a new coil and electronic box to do a substitution check but this also results in zero spark. I've even jury rigged dedicated +ve and earth lines between the various components and battery, bypassing the main loom.  Still no results.  At this point I've bailed out and am enthusiastically investigating the contents of a large wine bottle!  I know it's difficult to advise remotely on a problem like this but is there anything totally obvious I'm failing to see?  Any advice, comment or wine recommendations will be gratefully received.  Rob

Ha!  Now I know leakages are not a new topic by any stretch of the imagination, but they are frustrating!!  On my rebuilt A65 motor I have topped up the oil tank, gearbox and primary drive oils.  The engine has not even run yet (that's another topic!), just turned over on the kickstart, and I have a leak of gearbox oil from the point where the speedo cable connects to the output spigot at the lower part of the engine. It's only a small drip but it's there. There wasn't a seal between the cable outer and the spigot when the original was removed and the new one doesn't have one supplied with it.  I have fitted a fibre washer in there and tightened it up but I still have a dribble.  Any thoughts on how to stop it or is it just a case of 'they all do that sir'?? Rob

Bit of a left field question this but does anyone happen to know, or where I can find out, the cost of a 12 months road tax for a bike in 1962?  I'm adding a replica disc to my BSA 650 restoration project and want to fill in the details on it but can't find the info anywhere on the 'net.  Although I was around in 1962 I certainly wasn't buying tax discs back then .  I would have been 6 years old, since you ask!!!!

I have bought a new speedo for my A65 along with a pair of the rubber mounting cups as the old ones had splits in them.  As you can see from the pictures the rev counter sits neatly in it rubber cup.  However the speedo sits proud having bottomed out in the cup.  Either the speedo is too deep and/or the cup is too shallow.  Have tried to create more space by removing the bottom layer of rubber from the metal plate that's moulded into the part.  This would work if not for the fact that the plate varies in thickness, becoming thicker at the edge.  Has anyone come across this problem before?  Are there different cup sizes (!?) or do the speedos case sizes vary across the models or years? Thanks. Rob

Hi Everyone.  Finished re-assembling the RH (timing) side of the A65 project, or so I thought.  Having got the kickstart return spring in place, along with the gear change spring  etc I tried to turn the engine over on the kick start.  Nothing, the lever rotates a few degrees and then comes up against a solid sounding lock.  I removed the spring and plate as per the picture in case something there was out of line but it's still the same.  The engine turns via the nut on LH end of the crankshaft along with the primary drive/clutch which are fitted.  The gearbox selects correctly when turning the back wheel by hand.  So I'm guessing the gear box is free and ok? Before disturbing the timing chest does anyone have any idea what I could be looking for or what the problem may be?  I hate having to take things to bits to check work I should have already done correctly!!  The joys of old motorbikes.  Cheers.  Rob

Hi Again.  Having fitted the timing case the next job I'd planned to do was to fit the kick start return spring.  Simple? I should know better by now. After a whole afternoon of frustration I thought I'd better ask folks who know what they're doing rather than continue mucking about risking yet further blood loss from nipped fingers !!  There must be a straightforward way and I'm missing something obvious.  Main problem is the the spring distorts as it is tensioned and prevents the plate from engaging squarely with the two drive flats in the shaft.  It seems to me that there should be some form of sleeve sitting between the ID of the spring and the OD of the casing boss to reduce distortion.  Can't seem to find a parts illustration that would confirm this or not.  Anyone have any advice.  Thanks.  Rob

Hi All.  Thoroughly confused about the number of friction and plain steel plates to fit in the clutch.  The bike was originally a 1962 Star but has seen umpteen mods in its life.  It came with a 4 spring clutch but the basket and centre were badly worn beyond use.  I now have a new basket and centre for a 3 spring set up.  As far as I can see from manuals, the forum pages and video clips the friction plate is the first to go in with the alternating stack being built up. The stack 'finishes' with a plain plate followed by the pressure plate. However I'm still unsure as to how many of each plate type type should there be? any advice would be welcome!  Thanks again.  Rob

The A65 rebuild continues, albeit a little slowly.  I have to balance garage time with 'essential' household activities to maintain harmony!!!  Ready to fit the head but the head gasket that came with the gasket set I bought seems a little flimsy compared to the original.  It's certainly thinner. The new one is a laminate of thin copper (almost a foil) on either side of what looks like a paper gasket material. The original seems to be a single piece of copper sheet and much more robust.  As this is does not have any splits, cracks or dents my question is, can I clean it off, anneal and re-use it?  Or should I just go with the new one?  Cheers. Rob

Next item on the 'to fix' list on the A65 (1962) project is the gear selector shaft spline.  It's completely worn out and there's been a previous attempt to 'fix' it by way of a badly aligned cross drilling. I've come across a Performance Engineering Services repair item PES 68-3294R.   I'm willing to give it a go but does anyone have experience of this and perhaps provide tips/advice?  Rummaging through my pile of spares I have found 4 selector shafts with serviceable splines which are I believe from an A50. If anyone is in need of one of these let me know. ATB. Rob

The saga of the A65 'Bitsa' rumbles on with me now focussing on the clutch.  The bike engine no. shows it to be a 1962 build and it came fitted with a 4 spring clutch plus a host of other mods.  Stripping the clutch down it's clear that it is no longer fit for purpose.  The chain wheel and clutch centre are badly serrated beyond repair and a previous 'overhaul' had omitted to include thrush washer when rebuilt along with other bodgery.  Amongst the huge pile of bits I inherited with the bike is a 3 spring assembly which looks in good order so I plan to rebuild this using new shock absorber rubbers, clutch plate set, thrust washer, springs etc.  Question is will it be OK as a straight swap for the 4 spring unit?  The part number for the chain wheel is 68-3272 which suggests a 1968 (?) unit. 

My A65 restoration is progressing albeit 'steadily'!  Looking at the speedo unit now as the trip knob has broken. Taking the mechanism from the casing it seems as if someone has been in here before (groan).  The speedo (magnetic) works when I run it on an electric drill but I can't get the trip function to re-set.  As it's been fiddled with before I'm not sure if what's there has been put back correctly. Before I take it to bits I've tried to find an exploded view of the mechanism but without success.  Does anyone have, or can point me in the direction of info/diagram that might help?  Thanks. Rob