I thought I would share a bit of experience of using domestic copper 15mm pipe as a drift.
Obviously the walls are fairly thin and tend to roll over but the tubing seems to withstand quite a beating in use. if it gets too deformed you can just cut off the end and start again.

Ive used it to knock out bearings and bushes especially where you come up close to threaded areas that can be easily damaged when using steel tools. Works well where you can only get an edge on as with swing arm bushes and steering head cups.
In use rotate the tube so that as it deforms it does so symmetrically forming a lip.

Hi all,
I took out my B31 rigid yesterday for a run out, about 50 miles all together. Im pleased generally with the bike, great fun with the sprung seat etc. I rebuilt the engine about 2 years ago and it starts and runs easily. Magneto had been refurbished at the same time as rebuild of engine.
It accelerates well I think for an old 350 with my 95kg sat on it, but one thing i have noticed is at top speed (60 mph or so is a fast as i dare on this) the bike engine drive becomes irregular , it doesn't misfire but sort of 'pushes and pulls' instead of having an even balanced throttle.
Any ideas?

I wondered if it might need a bigger main jet?

Dear All
I would like some advice please on these 2 carbs that came with a non running A65 I bought earlier this year.

They are both 930 carbs but on disassembly for cleaning and renovation I discover they are different . The left one has a brass insert in the body  ( which on thinking about it is possibly  the remains of the pilot jet?) the right one has no jet in place there.
I do have other bikes with 900 series and 600 series carbs on them but they all have no brass inset as pictured on the left.
Is this just an early 930 carb and the right one a later model?

Hi All
I'm working on a 1964 A65 and presently scratching my head trying to work out the spacers and speedo on the back wheel. In short the bike i have acquired as a non runner and needs quite a bit of work. My knowledge of BSA wheels is limited to an older B31 rigid, so both the front and rear wheels on this A65 are different to my B31. I think you'd call the rear a QD? I must say I'm quite impressed with the engineering design of it! My initial concern though is that the speedo box rotates with the wheel rather than allowing the hub to rotate separately. I include photos and i wonder if the spacers are not correct or bearings not seated correctly?
I believe the early bikes used speedo from the gearbox  but i can't do this as my engine is from 66
Pete

Hi All,
I will be dismantling the forks on a recently acquired A65 (1964-5) and need an oil seal holder tool. They seem very expensive to buy! Does anyone have a drawing of the tool so i can make one up. It's the one that looks like a box spanner with 2 pins at the bottom. Part number 61-3005 i think.
Failing that if anyone has a spare one they want to sell....?

Pete

Dear All
Following a ride out i found my 1949 B31 to be rigid at the front as well as the back!

I intend to dismantle to find out what's happened.

On the service sheets it says i will need a special service tool to remove the seal holder. They are advertised for about £30 but it seems a lot to spend on what might be one days use!

Is there a short cut to this job or is the tool definitely required ?

Best wishes
Pete

Hi All

It's a 1949 B31 rigid

I have a leak coming from the back of the oil tank on one of the seams where the mounting bolt enters.
I can't  really see much but it seeps slowly and soaks the back of the gearbox and drips.
Most likely metal fatigue ?
Can these be welded or brazed?
Advice would be much appreciated.
Pete

Hi All
I'm interested to find a rack for my 1949 B31.
I'm not even sure what they looked like - my assumption is that they could be similar to The M20 WD racks.
If anyone has one, or even just photos to see how they fitted I'd be pleased to see.

Pete.

Hi All

I rebuilt my B31 (1949)  a while ago but haven't had chance to get out on it to test ride.
I've had it going on the main stand and have warmed it up and run it through the gears to make sure it selects and the clutch works okay.
I have done this 2 or 3 times this winter just to get the engine going and iron out any faults.
It's been running well up to now and I'm pleased with it.
Last time i did this i found the engine seemed to misfire and stop suddenly when running between 1000 to 2000 revs. It popped back through the carb.
It happened again shortly after when restarted. Ive not tried to restart since for fear of causing damage (although it will start easily).
The only adjustment i had made that day was to slightly open the air screw on the pilot jet as it was i think running a bit rich.
I have checked the timing and points as i thought it might have slipped but its spot on.
Carb is not loose on manifold.
Plug is black with thin film of soot but not oily or wet.
Can any of you advise?
My thoughts now include a sticking inlet valve? ( head rebuilt recently with new valves and guides)
Could it just be old fuel or a carburettor issue?
I have a new Amal monobloc set up standard running with a bell mouth.
Magneto has been overhauled and tested recently.

Pete

For anyone who may be interested Hans Renold used to live within a stones throw of my house.
The main factory was a short distance away in Burnage Manchester.
Some of the old railings still exist and you can just make out the Red shield and white cross that was one of their logos at the time (probably due to Hans Swiss heritage).
He had a big old house in Heaton Mersey close to where I live now.

Pete

Hi All,

Just rebored and fitted new piston. Cylinder head still off.
I'm just in the process of setting the timing and checking valve timing with a timing wheel i attached to the timing side of the crank. I have a dial gauge set onto the piston crown. As a matter of interest i checked the degree rotation of the ignition (7/16" BTDC measured on the gauge) this equates to 42- 43degrees BTDC on crank rotation! It sounds very advanced to me as most bikes I've timed tend to be 37-39 degrees. Am I somehow measuring wrongly or is this correct - is it due to longer stroke and lower compression than most bikes I've timed?

Pete.

Hi All,
Perhaps you may be able to help?
I bought the 1949 rigid B31 earlier this summer.
It ran well but leaked engine oil mainly i think due to a blocked breather.
I have pulled the engine out and have split the cases, mainly to inspect, clean up and then re seal the crankcase.
The crank, big end and main bearings look okay but the oil pump body has a few small flaky cracks.
I'm concerned it might fall apart so bought a new body from the BSA specialist suppliers in Netherlands as I couldn't find one here in UK!
All well cleaned out but the mechanism feels tight and has the odd 'catch' when rotating by hand.
In a previous post someone suggested lapping the end plates, but I'm not really certain whether this might help? Has anyone had a similar experience and discovered a solution?
Pete