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Topics - trophy

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Singles / Burman gearbox spline problem
« on: 25 October, 2021, 19:37:03 »
The gearbox in question is a 1938 4 speed, foot change Burman type H, the one with the clutch operating lever inside the outer cover.  The gear change quadrant and its gear lever have both lost nearly all their splines.  I have tried for twelve months to locate replacements without success.  Does anyone know anyone, or any company, that can restore them?  Please let me have their contact details.  I have photos if required. 

Singles / B series spares
« on: 01 October, 2021, 21:16:43 »
Hello everyone.  Age has forced me to sell my B31 and I have listed some spares for the B31/33 series in the "for sale" column.
Have a look and if anything interests you get in touch.  Regards to all.

Singles / What piston
« on: 29 September, 2021, 19:50:40 »
Hello all.  I have several items relating to the B single series that I need to shift.  One of the items is a very usable piston but I don't know for which model its for.  The top of the piston is marked 65/1693   and   3/55.  Its diameter is 84.93mm and the distance from the top of the piston to the centre of the gudgeon pin is 42mm.  Can anyone tell me what it will fit so I can advertise the items as a job lot?  Thanks in advance.

Twins / Kickstart splines and carburation problems
« on: 05 September, 2021, 12:35:02 »
My apologies for this thread as it's about my 1938 350 AJS and not the A10.  However, as the problems are related to all makes of motorcycles, and as this is the only Forum I belong to I hope you will have a look and, if possible, you may be able to help. 
 Problem 1;- The splines on the kickstart lever and also on the quadrant have worn away and the replacements for both are unobtainable.  Is anyone aware if there is a company which can make good the splines on these items?  If so I would be interested to hear from you.
Problem 2:- The Amal carburettor 217 from the top of the mixing chamber union nut.  The float chamber needle is not passing and holds the level at a midgies d##k below the Amal letter on the side of the float chamber.  Is this normal?
All answers appreciated.

Twins / A10 Crankcase Breather Check
« on: 17 August, 2021, 19:41:19 »
Hello all.  See my topic A10 Odd Cylinder Sizes of 12 August. After several static runs totaling approx 30 mintes I have decided to investigate the smoking problem in more detail.  I have removed the head, cylinder and pistons to check further but before that I want to check if the crankcase breathing system is working -- without removing the inner cover of the timing side.  Is this possible?  If so can anyone explain/describe how, especially as the exit port in the drive side crankcase has no pipework fitted and the port is extremely difficult to get at.   

Twins / A10 Odd Cylinder Sizes??
« on: 12 August, 2021, 11:56:32 »
Doing a top end re-furb for a friend who says its a bit rattley.  The valves and springs are like new, bit of wear on the guides.  Bores glazed but OK and no wear obvious so were just honed.  Both pistons compression ring gaps between .007 and .015".  LH oil ring at .031 RH at .025.  Bores at +.040".
Decision taken to fit new guides and new rings:- New bronze guides fitted, valve seats cut and re-ground-all good.  Fitting new rings showed the problem.  The LH piston was OK at '008 to .009" ring gaps but the RH rings would not fit into the cylinder??? Checking the pistons, which were a pair, showed the RH piston diameter (front to back) was .004" smaller than the left one. The RH ring gaps were ground on my Dremel to .009".  Both piston to cylinder clearances are good at .005" each.  I can only think this could be if the bores were machined to suit the individual pistons, what do you think.  I have never heard of this before.
Anyway, it's all back together now and after 3-4 minutes running it seems OK except that the LH cylinder, which I consider to be the std +.040 size, is burning oil more than the RH one.  Fingers crossed it will even out once the rings have done a bit of work. What do you think folks?

Bantam / D14-4 Gearbox assembly
« on: 06 July, 2021, 20:29:28 »
Hello all.  Am having to sort out two problems with a gearbox I have just re-built.  Problem 1) is a kick starter that regularly locks at the top of its stroke but is OK if the crank is turned slightly.  Problem 2) is the gear change sliding gears on the mains and the lay shafts both have 21 teeth, but I have read that one should be 21 and the other 22 teeth.  Can anyone point me in the direction of an illustration and gear specification that I can refer to.  I cannot find anything on line.  If it means I need a 22 tooth sliding gear where would I get one from? All help much appreciated.

Bantam / D14 4 speed box
« on: 05 July, 2021, 20:01:35 »
Hello all.  After fitting new seals in a friends D14 I am having problems with the kickstart not engaging 50% of the time.  In or out of gear.  The slightest turn on the crank lets it engage.  Also, if I don't let the kickstart lever travel all the way back to the upright position stop it stays operational. The problem was there before I stripped it but only about 5% of the time and not 50%.  Any thoughts anyone?  Also according to Piquet's brilliant topic of the 01/11/2018 on the 4 speed box he states the sliding gears on the main and lay shafts have 21 and 22 teeth respectively.  The ones in this box are both 21 teeth.  Is this correct.  Could it be the cause of my kickstart problem?  I can't see it but you never know.

Bantam / D14 Runaway
« on: 27 June, 2021, 14:04:28 »
Hello all.  I need help to understand something new to me.  I have no experience with 2 stokes at all but I am a B31 member of the club and thought I would ask yourselves.  I am doing a favour for a friend by getting his 1971 D14 running, it had stood unused in his garage for 5 years.  I have taken off the tank, seat and air filter.  Removed and ultra-sonically cleaned the Concentric. Charged the battery.  Checked the timing.  Got a good spark.  Fitted a temporary petrol supply and after a LOT of kicking eventually got it running.   Then after roughly 5 minutes it took off at full revs.  Closing the throttle had no response, removing the plug lead the same, disconnecting the battery which made no difference, bike still at full revs.  Only stopped when I blanked the carb air intake with my hand.  Can anyone explain in a way I can understand?
Also, how big a job is it to re-place the seals, and how expensive would it be as my friend doesn't want to spend a lot on it. I ask because someone told me that they would need replacing after such a long time standing.
The bike is in really good condition, only had 2 owners and has a genuine 1800 miles on the clock.
All replies gratefully received.  Thanks.

Singles / connecting rods identification
« on: 30 April, 2021, 20:53:05 »
Where can I find a table showing markings for the B31 and B33 con rods?  I have looked but unable to find any thing.

Singles / B31-B33 bottom ends
« on: 27 April, 2021, 19:56:48 »
.I have a very dirty crankshaft and the big end needs replacing.  Before I do anything about it do you think there is a market for it as its surplus to requirements?  I'm not certain if its for a B31 orB33.
Also confirm if the threads on the shafts are 3/4" and 1/2" 20tpi BSCy.  Regards all.

Singles / Steering problem???
« on: 16 April, 2021, 21:08:03 »
Yesterday was my first ever ride on my recent purchase, a bog standard 1955 B31 - but it doesn't like to go round corners.  In 70 years of riding this was only the 2nd time this has happened and I definitely didn't like the experience.  It just didn't want to turn, I had to slow down and corner by turning the handlebars.  It was not a good feeling, believe me.  The tracking is good, as are the tyre pressures and the steering head bearings.   I know the bikes history and the previous owner has had it since 1961 but it has not been used this last 11 years.  I cannot believe the steering was the same when he was using it.
The first time I encountered steering as bad as this was on a K series BMW and I was advised to change the tyres from Continental to Pirelli, which cured it. 
The tyres on the B31 are front Avon SpeedMaster 3.25 x 19 and rear is a Dunlop Gold Seal 3.50 x 19.  Both are about 60% worn and will be at least 12 years old.  I don't want to splash out on new tyres unless I have to, I was working when I had the BMW but am well retired now and need to be careful with my pennies.
Anyone out there with what might be causing it?

Singles / Big ends
« on: 20 March, 2021, 21:42:02 »
Hello folks.  No doubt like everybody else I am well and truly fed up with the Covid situation and I am sorting the newly acquired 1955 B31 ready taking to the road as soon as we are allowed.  Well, assuming I get a decent amount of miles under my belt on the bikes (B31;  AJS 1938 38/26; Honda 1988 XBR500) this coming summer I was wondering how I am going to fill in the winter months?  Then I had an idea.  I have a complete but well worn 1956/7 B33 engine and a separate, quite rusty flywheel assembly. Both need new big ends.
I have never changed a big end before.  I have a well equipped workshop, lathe etc and wonder if I could successfully replace the big ends.  I have all the necessary tools but have I the knowledge?  I have re-built dozens of bikes but never changed a roller big end.  Is it a step too far or will it require a professional person to do this job?
Has any one tried and succeeded?  Any information on the way forward would be welcome.
Also am I correct in assuming that the crank assembly is the same for both the B31 and B33, just that the bores are are different?
Ride safe all.

Singles / which battery?
« on: 11 March, 2021, 20:19:59 »
Hello again.  My recent B31 purchase came without a battery.  I would like to use a modern AGM battery that would fit into the battery carrier as the original lead acid battery did. Any suggestions/recommendations gratefully received.
After draining the crankcase of 1.5 lts of black oil, cleaning the carburetor, rigging up a temporary fuel supply etc, started 2nd kick.  I love these old thumpers.

Singles / B31 mystery?
« on: 01 March, 2021, 20:49:28 »
Hello all.  Fingers crossed you can help.  A couple of days ago I became the owner of a very original 1955 B31 with frame/engine numbers CB31 10836/BB31 19613.  The V5 says that it was first registered in England in 1985?  Could this imply that it may have started life abroad?  and if so how could I find out?
With the bike came 90% of a B33 engine, number BB33 860774, the last two digits are barely readable but that's what they look like to me.  What year would it be.  Can the B33 engine fit into the B31 frame?

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