wondering if anyone can suggest replacement down pipes for an A10 plunger , these dont look like cut down ones as chrome plated on the ends and inside.
a few dents and scuffs spoil the look of mine.

use them or loose them.


i cant speak for the rest of the country but around our area we are losing our local bike shops.
the options are, use the back street cowboys or pay the flash dealerships.

two of our local bike shops have closed in the last year, Im changing more to hobby with the odd customer call , my local bike MOT tester has closed at christmas, and the next best biker who does mot's and servicing has, Im told today , has decided to close.

there are a couple of locals working in the garage of their houses, doubt they have insurance and its 20 miles plus to the nearest superstore. As for MOT's there is now only one local garage that does bikes and in the past they informed me that Ive had dodgy ones done there in the past, unknown to me and these on customers bikes.
My local tester has closed was bike mot's only with the odd repair to correct  a fail or small work like pads and chains. SO, if you want your bike tested by non bike riders and get your road bike serviced by a motocross dealer come to our area.

on the other hand, if you want Ariel VH350 cyl head nuts, square 4 clutch nuts, A65 breather disc and spring. BSC nuts and bolts, use your local specialist.

OK, as many will know, what with work and running a bike business, I dont get a lot of time to ride. I/We have had our A10 plunger bobber for 11 or 12 years, swapped it with our then landlords son for our Land Rover Discovery. 10 years ago I managed to get neck and thyroid cancer which limited my use of helmets for a while. having been clear since then a recent trip to the dentist for a tooth removal reveals a subsequent lump under my chin. I now have to go for another scan. It might be or might not be, so, this looks like the end of my riding depending on results.

just looking for a ball park figure  for the A10,
Engine  1950 Golden Flash Plunger, Frame  1952 Golden Flash Plunger, has Aprilia front forks and wheels, with discs. being plunger frame hasnt been altered.
the bike runs , but would benefit from a couple of good runs and servicing.

any thoughts?

with the engine on a reasonably fast tick over Im getting 11.8v returning to the battery. I know on modern bikes Im looking for 13.8v with lights on no difference. as the generator is of unknown vintage I suppose 11.8v isnt bad. probably wont get much better without spending more.

right, today was the day, the B40 fired up and run.
apart from a leak at the fuel tank fixed with ptfe, I had a leak from the monoblock carb.

first, the outer cover probably needs a new gasket but the A10 has been on and off many times but always seals. any problem area to look at as the body only has a small face.
secondly, the cut off valve housing, the valve does not cut off with a fibre washer fitted. removed washer and used ptfe now has sealed and cuts off. I note Amal catalogue says "if fitted" on washer description. anyone not using a washer or are there different thicknesses?
thirdly, the throttle stop screw 376/068 screws in but meets a heavy resistance , Ive tried it on another 376 and the same thing. I dont want to break the plain diameter off as Ive already got one like it. Is it a faulty new part or is there an option ? I could do with increasing tickover.

after my other post regarding the led rear light I want to fit, I succumed and changed back to negative earth instead of positive.
a lesson to one and all to check things as you go when re wiring.
im not using a preformed loom but a custom (by me) one as would not use all the fancy connectors and items found on a purchased loom.
SO, wired up electronic ignition and generator to the Japanese style reg rec , nice soldered wires and crimped and soldered connectors with heatshrink support. all looked good, then I changed the earth as above.
electronic igniition only two wires  to swap, but led rear light not working on light or brake. head scratch, checked my loom connections , all checked out ok?? checked the fuse, in one piece. rechecked the wire and connectors, all seems ok.
tried another fuse , turned on and still not working?? more head scratching. These fuses look ok. after 4 fuses, I checked them before fitting ok, after fitting no good. tried a spade fuse assembly, blew straight away.
that was it, was going to ask here whats up?  then, I thought, pull all the wiring and recheck..
modern reg rec has 5 wires , red, black and 3 white. I was using red, black and 2 white, no problems.
then it came to me, changed the earths, so, reversed red and black as one goes to earth...
hey presto, rear light works and no blown fuses!!
just waiting for the headlamp and brackets now to wire up the front end..

This B40 is causing no end of problems..., now has new clutch centre and basket with rollers and lines up with front engine sprocket , so, all good now sorted.
torqued the clutch up, built up all good.
put the rotor on and torqued up, fitted the coils , done, sorted.!!!!#
not likely, the lock washer turns on the armature nut despite nut being done up to 60lbft.
cant remember taking or fitting any other spacers so had a look on the WWW for nut and tab washer. the tab washer 29-2054  one fitted is thicker than the new pattern replacement, the nut 29-2053 is shouldered as Drags have but looking at the parts books they seem normal nuts and Fekd sell them as non shouldered.
I think the nut is bottoming out, is there a spacer missing? is the shouldered nut really needed?
fitting the newer pattern washer would increase the problem.

not having touched the old girl in all the years Ive had her 1952 A10, I started her up yesterday, no oil in the sump, probably as there wasnt much in the oil tank so weight didnt force spring open... now theres a thought for the future...
the motobat still has a good charge and the fuel with octane booster has not gone off. ( the bike has been stood for months ) a couple of good investments there..
I have noticed a puddle of oil on the ramp, seems to be exiting via the oil flinger seal on the back of the clutch. As a plunger virgin, presumably this is a clutch off job or a gearbox out one? also I see the washer is riveted on. Drags dont have a couple of the parts in stock including the rivets. who uses what?