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Topics - chaz

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Twins / A10 plunger flinger seal
« on: 30 December, 2021, 18:35:45 »
not having touched the old girl in all the years Ive had her 1952 A10, I started her up yesterday, no oil in the sump, probably as there wasnt much in the oil tank so weight didnt force spring open... now theres a thought for the future...
the motobat still has a good charge and the fuel with octane booster has not gone off. ( the bike has been stood for months ) a couple of good investments there..
I have noticed a puddle of oil on the ramp, seems to be exiting via the oil flinger seal on the back of the clutch. As a plunger virgin, presumably this is a clutch off job or a gearbox out one? also I see the washer is riveted on. Drags dont have a couple of the parts in stock including the rivets. who uses what?

Singles / B40 primary alignment
« on: 23 December, 2021, 12:41:36 »
Having now hopefully sorted the tight motor, Im moving back to the primary assembly. Superglue didnt workremoving the spacer so I made some different feet for my bearing puller and its off.
Now,reading Ruperts book it says Alignment of chain teeth is important, well, mine looks out. Ive been in there with a depth mic today and Im roughly 3/16" out of line. the clutch basket is lapped and new rollers but is approx .375" from front face of teeth to case face, while the engine sprocket is .212". The engine sprocket spacer is the middle one available at 0.312" the others are +-.010. the oil seal witness is approx where it should be . Ive got nothing left over from strip down so?? where to go from here?
pushing either clutch or engine hubs inward will  hit the back of the casing

if anyone has their primary open could they check please, 

Singles / B40 camwheel timing question
« on: 04 December, 2021, 13:14:53 »
side points B40 1965, reading Ruperts book it says if there is a line and a vee use the vee to align .
my cam has a dot and an M and a 1 then opposite 180 degrees there is another dot.
hopefully the picture will show, as the bike wouldnt fire before I took the gear and clutch back out which mark do I align? thanks

Twins / a pair of Thunderbolts
« on: 21 November, 2021, 16:59:33 »
just wondering if these two Thunderbolts are members on the forum.
mine, 1967 SPE 94 F and father in laws 1966 OMB 482 D

Singles / B40 oil pump returning?
« on: 17 October, 2021, 18:22:00 »
1965 B40 rebuild
Ive had the pipe off the feed side of the oil pipe union under the engine. The oil seems to be being sucked down but has not appeared yet at the rockers. The engine has not been run yet but I would have expected turning the crank by hand that something may have appeared by now.
the pump was primed on build, and removing the sump plate around 3 litres has come out of the bottom,I cant get the return pipe off either end due to access clearance. Should I still wait or is there likely to be a problem? new hoses and rocker feed pipe.

Singles / B40 fork leaking...WHY?
« on: 26 September, 2021, 13:33:49 »
the B40 has been sat on a mx rising stand since it had the forks put in, must be all of 3 months now. front and back wheels dangling so I can check wheel and head bearings movement, I need to shim internals.
BUT, WHY has the drain screw now decided to leak, It hasnt since rebuild, the other side is ok, its been dry for months now all of a sudden there is a puddle on the floor, not a spot but I suspect 25ml..  WHY?? >:(

The Star and Garter / De-rusting parts
« on: 11 September, 2021, 17:36:56 »
as has been covered elsewhere , regarding deruusting insides of tanks, Thanks Mike, I thought I would post a couple of pictures, not BSA but showing what can be done. our other interest is from WW1, we have spent time around the Somme and have picked up a few shell remains.
first picture shows what they look like when the Somme dirt has been cleaned off, then a picture of the bar thats collecting the rust, originally around double the diameters and has to be cleaned off a few times each shell to bare metal , and finally how they come up and with a coat of kurust.
Thanks to Mike Farmer for the info, I used a bucket and a handfull or two of soda crystals,  every couple of shells , the liquid gets drained and stripped of the sludge for re use again.
I tried this method on the B40 tank before coating with Flowliner, liquid inside obviously, and the crystals look very similar to Flowliner ones supplied for 19 against Morrisons own at 1 a bag.

hopefully, the process will halt the rusting as the shells have been underground for the last 100+ years, the farmers normally clear the fields every ploughing , so keep coming up to the surface

Singles / B40 primary bolt lengths
« on: 05 September, 2021, 14:49:18 »
as the question was asked on the twins, thought I would ask for the B40. Im sure Ive got it somewhere!!
reason being, the B40 drain screw is weeping, Ive tried , copper, fibre and joint compound but still weeping when stood.
my thoughts, currently is that the long screw Ive got in is bottoming out and so not tightening, but yet to check

Singles / B40 tight engine
« on: 04 September, 2021, 19:38:31 »
before I risk a tear down, my rebuilt B40 engine is tight to turn over,  got the back wheel in today with chain and even with plug out in top gear, its still hard to turn over with the wheel and cant use the kick start by hand.
the clutch was fitted and it was the same to turn over, its a complete rebuild/

crank and bigend assembly new and was ok, Im thinking it may be valves need adjusting.? but I only manage to do bits and pieces to the rebuild between other work.

Singles / basic B40 electrics then to upgrade
« on: 13 August, 2021, 17:24:21 »
Ok, I have been playing with wiring for years but this one is baffling me, must be going senile  in old age.

its a 1965 B40 only has the Green/White and green/yellow wires from the generator so a 6V system.
its got side points and a coil and kill button. just cant get a spark (wired by my son !!)

all wiring diagrams Ive seen have three wire generators or are original with switches and rectifiers fitted.

what Im looking to do is a basic wiring diagram  to get the new built motor running. do I need rectifier
as the bike is going to be a day use only, at the moment, I would then be looking at adding rear brake light and horn.
the option to add ignition switch , battery and head and tail lights.

the question arises, whats the best , to convert to neg earth or leave pos?
also is 6v good enough or go 12v?

obviously, the last two questions will or should impact on the diagrams for the first questions.
thing is , Ive already got a lot of money into the rebuild and dont want to spend out on a lot of fancy electronic bits and pieces , if it ends up not needing the extras.
currently have the T100 and A10 sat in garages that have not moved in 4or 5 years.

Singles / B40 rear wheel question.
« on: 24 July, 2021, 21:49:52 »
working on the enduro version, full width hub, bolt on sprocket. its nearly ready to go back in but, as I didnt take it apart the parts book isnt very helpful.
On the speedo drive side, there is a steel washer 29-5715 then the felt seal holder 29-5710.
neither the washer or the holder fit in the speedo drive spigot. both are between .002" and .008 bigger than the bore. as the bore is stepped, the spacer would only go up to the step , not the shoulder of the bearing.
my thoughts , should the spacer go inside the hub before the bearing gets pushed in?
any reason why neither go into the spigot? its not been powder coated as blanked off prior to coating.

Singles / B40 engine number query
« on: 03 July, 2021, 21:14:50 »
trying to mix and match the mongrel B40 I know its a 1964  frame but have a problem finding the year for the engine.
its a B40 FB 725, I see from various charts a 1966 was a straight B40 **** and a 1967 was  B40 G 201 onwards.
any ideas what the FB is for as the end of production letters does not tieup with an F and B in that order.

Singles / rocker feed from return pipe B40
« on: 03 July, 2021, 19:17:08 »
as the B40 isnt standard, Im looking at fitting a Tee Piece in the return line to feed the rockers. this was done on my T100, the A50 runs the 3 pipe outlet from the cases, the A10 uses the Tee piece.
my question, do I need to restrict the Tee piece, or will the smaller bore pipe restrict any pressure, if needed. would too much oil/pressure do any harm?

Twins / plunger A10 thickie time
« on: 29 June, 2021, 17:24:12 »
ok, hands up, Ive always been unit 350, 500 and 650 powered. bearing in mind that, I was thinking  the same for my A10.

today, ( Ive owned the bike for 12 years, most of which its been parked up) ,   Ive been looking at oil leaks. consulting the parts book, for a 1952 frame and 1950 + engine, the primary , to my mind is leaking oil. Ive only ever changed or topped up engine oil. but primary always seems above lower  chain run level, the engine always wet sumps, the reason it never gets used (that and time).

my question to those more familiar with pre unit motors, is there a gasket or seal that has failed around the crankshaft to allow oil to escape from the wet sumping sump?
Im presuming, as Ive never topped up the gearbox, the excess oil has not come from the usual culprit final drive bushing. This has always been my thought as unit bikes suffer as its always the source of leaks.

currently trying to get insurance to give it a run but being altered , its a contentious problem.

The Star and Garter / A50 question regarding V5 etc
« on: 28 June, 2021, 20:10:58 »
question regarding form filling and applications, ie dating cert etc.
my latest chop is an American Import. All other Brit bikes Ive had or worked on were registered as for example A50R XC12345.
the Frame, Engine and Nova all have XC12345  A50R, the frame being stamped XC12345 above A50R.

its in the process of being rebuilt so not yet available for an inspection but the numbers are clear on photos, so,
when I come to fill in the Dating application, and then the V55 will it cause any problems with Swansea, bearing in mind the owners club dating officer will probably realise it should start A50R.

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