In a similar fashion to my clutch problem, https://www.bsaownersclub.co.uk/bsaoc_forum/index.php?topic=12461.msg66633#msg66633 I've found that my shock absorber nut was loose. Just like the clutch, the problem is that the splines on the crankshaft do not protrude from the face of the cush drive bearing sleeve; the lockwasher has nothing to secure it.

If (similar to last time) the clutch bearing sleeve is the wrong one, replacements are very thin on the ground; it doesn't look like I'll be riding the bike any time soon unless I can come up with an alternative fix (The correct clutch sleeve is also thin on the ground). So, is using thread locking compound an acceptable substitute for the clutch and shock absorber locknuts? If so, any particular one? The engine and clutch sprockets are out of line by about 1/8th"; what's the maximum amount they should be out of line?

I've just changed the fork oil on my M33. Once the new oil is in, should I be able to see the oil or should it be out of sight down the 'ole? I put 5½ oz in each fork leg. I changed the oil for two reasons: the forks were a bit underdamped, and I couldn't see any oil when I took the top caps off and looked inside so I wasn't sure if the level was a bit low.

By the way, the 1:1 mixture of 40W engine oil and 15W fork oil I used is just right. Here's a photo of the fork legs in case they are not the standard items:

I just ordered a couple of Whitworth bolts; I needed a 3/8" coach bolt to fix a launderette tumble dryer. The bolts arrived quickly and are nicely made with rolled threads and a nicely made square nut. I'm thinking the firm's products might be useful for owners of sidecars so here's the website:

https://www.thevintagescrewcompany.com/product-category/plated-screws/

They also do machine screws.

After a distasteful experience last year with the claims handling "department" of Carole Nash, I'm looking to move to another company. The department is actually a separate company who tried very hard to get me to hire a bike, and wanted to pick my bike up and take it away. It's an old Japanese bike that been very reliable; but because it isn't worth very much it would have been written off and I doubt I would ever have seen it again.

So who to go for? I've seen some recommendations in old posts, but is this advice still good? The names that came up were Footman James, and (I think) Peter James.

If you have had to make a claim with any company, how were you treated?

I went to look at the handbook for my M33, but it's not on the website. I'm sure I've seen it there before, so what is going on, please? Am I looking in the wrong place?

How do I secure cables that run on the underside of the rear mudguard on my M33? There's a clip near where the cables dive through the mudguard to reach the back of the rear light, but that's it. The result of course is that the tyre has worn through one of the cables. There are no cable clips that I can see.

My mudguard has a broken hinge, and the mudguard is secured with a plate bolted to both halves. Is the rear of the mudguard supposed to be detachable when hinges up, or does it just hinge? I need to consider how to run the cables, to allow for getting the hinge fixed in the future.

Anybody going out on Sunday rides near me? I'm in North Bucks, or more accurately the South part of Milton Keynes. I'm on an M33. There's also the lighter week day evenings, at least for a few more weeks.

What was a typical speed for most traffic on good roads, in the 1950s? I'm trying to relate the performance of my M33 to general road speeds and cruising speeds, when it was built in 1953.