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Topics - hoogerbooger

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Singles / 1965 B40F carb stud threads ? BSF CEI UNF ??
« on: 11 May, 2018, 17:27:15 »
I ask as the Amal site tells me to use nyloc nuts with my Mk1 concentric... so I need to buy these.

On a web search I'm getting conflicting info on the thread.  I've tested with some other 5/16 bsf nuts I have it wouldn't appear to be a bsf thread.

Anyone know what it ought to be for a 1965 B40f ?

I have all the chemicals and I'll probably do the prep and seal next weekend. I'm using Sealeater (di-chloromethane) stripper

Any more advice on minimising the risk to the external paintwork would be appreciated.

I was previously advised to wrap the tank in cling film to protect the paintwork. Will that survive Di-Chlorometane ?

( Presumably I should remove badges and rubbers to be on the safe side)

Also wondering what's best to seal the tank filler ?  In video of people using the de-greaser and metal prep after the sealant removal  they've used duct tape to seal the tank filler. Would this also be ok for the stripper ? I'm not sure whether it may get 'eaten' or not stay watertight.... particularly as gravel should be added for that stage)

Or for the stripper stage should I use the chrome tank cap ?

The tank will need to be emptied. I'm presuming using the fuel tap opening into a bucket.. Looks to me that some extra protection to the paintwork around the fuel tap opening may be needed ?

.....and then the tank will need rinsed .

advice much appreciated

Singles / Carb - gaskets/sealing
« on: 24 April, 2018, 15:44:38 »
Rupert ratio says use greased paper gasket against the head then 1/16" to 1/8" tufnol heat proof spacer, then O-ring .....then don't over tighten.

He also says too soft a spacer can be a cause of bending the flanges.

My Concentric has no 0-ring groove. It was mounted to a 3/8" rubber spacer  ( tufnol ?)with a paper gasket either side ( & no O-ring). I was just going to put it back as I found it greasing the paper gaskets both sides.

1) This sound Ok/likely to be sufficient to make a seal ?

2) Should I presume my 3/8" rubber spacer is best replaced with a narrower one or should I just be a bit more careful when tightening the nuts ?

3) Also Should the gasket on the bowl be greased or not ?

( I will fit as a reassembled whole carb....having checked all mating surfaces are flat.....& lightly tightening to avoid warping it.)

Singles / Sump Plate - loose studs & sealing
« on: 15 April, 2018, 16:27:50 »
Two of the studs unscrewed when I removed the sump plate to drain the oil.

Should I be installing the studs first & using some form of locking compound to prevent them coming out again next time? or just use the nut on it to screw back in as if it were a bolt.

I have no locking compounds so wot would be good

(Re the paper gaskets: was just going to use grease)

Singles / oil tank union nut -oil seal to oil out hose
« on: 15 April, 2018, 15:48:39 »
just about to put oil tank /pipes back on.

I have a union nut that screws onto the bottom of the filter & a connecting metal oil pipe that goes through and pushes into the oil hose. Looking at the parts diagram (parts 13 & 14) below it seems it's not intended to any form of extra sealing:

Just wondering is this design is reliable or leaky ? and if leaky any tips on sealing

I've just removed the paint and muck I had on them and the pipe seems to seat ok in the nut

Singles / Blue 1965 B40F's did they exist ?
« on: 13 April, 2018, 17:57:41 »
My bike's V5 says it was registered in 1994; declared as made in 1965 & it has an age specific plate .  It is blue .

Have just received a copy of Rupert Ratio Vol 2 which seems to say UK B40 Stars (61 to 66) were either Royal Red or Black.

I'm now getting awfully concerned about my heritage ! I knew it had a few bits from elsewhere &  it lacks the Chrome tank sides.....but now I'm thinking it could be a cross between Dolly-the-Sheep and a Ford Cortina.

Is Rupert right ?

Are the factory despatch books accessible anywhere to see what they may say  ?( I am hoping that at least my frame and engine number might match !)

Singles / B40 Speedo - wots the right one ?
« on: 08 April, 2018, 11:49:13 »
Looks like I may have a speedo off a C15 on my 1965 B40 Star. I've got a Smiths 'grey face'  SSM2001/00 16000 (goes up to 80mph on the dial) I think SSM2001/02 1600 is the right speedo (goes up to 100mph on the dial (presumably just to impress rather than any need!)

Does anyone know if mine is definately the wrong speedo ? Were they ever fitted to B40s ?

With the different wheel sizes on C15/B40's I may find I have the wrong speeds showing ( if I get it to work) But  presumably with the right drive gear  (on the back wheel) it wouldn't matter as it's that that allows for the  wheel size  ?

So If, in due course, I find I have the wrong speeds showing it possible to get parts to change the gearing in the driver unit or is there a code number or pattern part I could look out for  ?

Singles / tips? - fitting tight oil pipe
« on: 05 April, 2018, 09:50:19 »
I've tried dipping the end in boiling water for a few minutes but still can't push the *am thing on. just spent a lot of time skinning my knuckles.

Not sure if its sensible to oil the outside of the case it encourages leaks ?

Any tips ?

[I have the right pipe by the looks of it for my B40F (1/4" -6.3mm) but the pipe I took off certainly appears to have a more generous bore]

Singles / B40F sump ball valve
« on: 03 April, 2018, 17:28:24 »
Can't see any ball bearing in the sump ball valve ( picture attached). Rupert Ratio tells me it falls under oil pressure & no spring involved. just probed with a spoke & couldn't feel anything after an 1 1/2".

Could the bearing just be further up ? didn't want to probe further in case I push it somewhere unhelpful.......if it's there that is. 

Any advice on whats best to do ?

( tried blowing down the return pipe ! but air goes nowhere. Tried putting a pipe over the ball valve tube and sucking. air flows, but all I got was some more oil heading my way and no ball bearing)

Singles / B40F Oil on wiring in tool box - from oil breather ?
« on: 31 March, 2018, 18:42:35 »
When it was running the wiring around the battery was getting a bit oily. Residue still there . Looking at the back of the oil tank the feed pipe to the rocker looks clean (no pipe clip on it), but the return pipe is oily and suspect ( that does have  pipe clip). I will change the return pipe.

However, oil marks on the wiring seem too high for that  to be the source/only source. I notice what looks like a breather (3/4" long painted pipe spur) near the top of the tank.  Can these/should this spit oil.........and if so is it normal or indicative of problems ?

Also should the rocker feed be fine without pipe clips ? as I have none at both ends

Singles / Petrol Tank - somewhat rusty/cruddy inside - quick fix ?
« on: 29 March, 2018, 00:26:15 »
I was hoping to get my B40f on the road initially with the minimum of tinkering ( then have a more concerted effort at restoring next winter - when I'm feeling braver).

My tank ( pics attached) has chips & a few rust bubbles on the outside and some rust and crud inside. Looks like the tank was sealed with something by the previous owner but this was 20/21+ years ago. The bike last ran 18 years ago on leaded.

I've just been viewing youtube on using the POR15 kit .... but that would seem best done when/once I've repainted the tank.....which I wasn't hoping to do now.   Is there a quicker fix in the interim just to wash out the crud ?  if so any advise on technique ? I was hoping that using a fuel additive like Millers VSPE Power Plus might then get me by with the ethanol resistance ?

Singles / petrol tap - unblocking ?
« on: 28 March, 2018, 21:57:18 »
any suggestions on best way to decrud the internals of a petrol tap ?

Just taken tank off my B40 after 18 yrs or sitting with some fuel in it. Plunger on the tap didn't want to open. bit of WD40 and a wiggle to release it ........ but  no fuel came out. Seems to be blocked.... so have emptied through filler. I stuck the fuel pipe back on the tap and blew threw....a bit of air got through but not much.

Not obvious to me how tap is fixed. Is the tap-hole in the tank threaded ? or is there a nut on inside ? ( which would seem impossible to get to). Do you twist the tap anti-clockwise to remove ?

Should I presume the fibre washer will need replacing if the taps is taken off ?

advice welcomed

Singles / Chrome Rims - rust prevention
« on: 12 March, 2018, 15:09:10 »
I've found various advice here and elsewhere on how to remove rust from pitted rims ( which I have).  I saw one reference here to using a 'sealer' to reduce the speed at which the rust will fight back. But I've not found much on such substances.

As I'll have the wheels off to change tyres it seems sensible to de-rust as much as possible.  If there are sealers that can protect it thereafter ....then advice would be very welcome on the best susbstances/approach.

( My head is thinking that it might be more important to deal with the inside of the rim as the outside will dry quicker & I can get at them to polish. Haven't seem what the insides look like yet though)

Singles / Tyre levers: how big ? How many ?
« on: 05 March, 2018, 20:08:53 »
I need a new front tyre. Whilst I have a motorcycle garage 4 miles away I'd feel a lot happier knowing I could fix  a puncture myself  - particularly as I hope to do a bit of a tour on it once its going well enough . So I reckon I should sort this tyre change myself....which means I need to buy levels/kit

Looks like the original tool kit had two 9" spoon levers ?  Which seems a bit small to me ? ( based on guessing - after a lifetime of bicycles) I can see 9" ones would fit inside the tool box cover of my B40 ..... but could I rely on them for enough leverage?

Any advice ?  was wondering if I get two 9" and perhaps a 16" as well for the garage tool box. But I haven't a clue how big/how many is sensible

Singles / B40 Star sensible tyres ?
« on: 26 February, 2018, 21:04:37 »
My rather old dry-stored tyres look a bit ropey.  Bike manual says 3.25" x 18" front and 3.5" x 18" back. Just been scanning tyres online & I'm not really sure what might be good, bad or ugly. I want something that is safe but looks fairly original. Any suggestions ? or advice.

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